ISLAMIC REPUBLIC OF IRAN

PART 1, General Information

PART 2, BLOG Pictures and Gallery

PART 3, VIDEO CLIP

PART 1,   GENERAL INFORMATION

Capital city; Tehran

Population; 82 million

Currency;  Iranian Rial

Km travelled; 3305

Days in Iran; 30

Languages; Persian

General Overview

Iran, formerly known as Persia, is the second-largest country in the Middle East and one of the cradles of ancient civilization. In 1963, with the support of the USA and the UK, the White Revolution was launched under the Shah of Persia, introducing land reforms, industrial growth, and women’s rights. However, widespread dissatisfaction with the monarchy culminated in 1979 with the establishment of the Islamic Republic. The 1980s saw a devastating war between Iraq and Iran. Today, Iran is a major global supplier of natural gas and holds vast oil reserves.

Culturally, Iran boasts 22 UNESCO World Heritage Sites—the third largest in Asia and 11th largest in the world—reflecting its rich history and heritage.

Iran – Land of History and Culture

Iran, a vast country, It lies at the crossroads of Western Asia, bordered by Armenia, Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Turkey, and Iraq. Its landscape is strikingly diverse, ranging from the snow-capped peaks of the Alborz and Zagros mountains to the arid expanses of the Dasht-e Kavir and Dasht-e Lut deserts. Fertile plains along the Caspian Sea and the Persian Gulf provide pockets of lush greenery, contrasting the stark beauty of the central plateau.

Population and Society

Iran is home to an estimated 88–90 million people, making it one of the most populous nations in the region. The capital, Tehran, serves as the political, cultural, and economic heart, while other major cities such as Mashhad, Isfahan, Shiraz, and Tabriz boast rich histories and architectural treasures. The population is ethnically diverse, predominantly Persian, alongside Azeris, Kurds, Lurs, Arabs, Baloch, and Turkmen. Persian, or Farsi, is the official language. Religion, particularly Shia Islam, is central to social life, with smaller communities of Sunnis, Christians, Jews, Zoroastrians, and Baha’is contributing to the country’s religious landscape.

History

Iran’s history stretches back to the dawn of civilization. Ancient empires such as the Elamites, Achaemenids, Parthians, and Sassanids laid the foundation for a rich cultural legacy. The 7th-century Islamic conquest reshaped the region’s spiritual and political trajectory, culminating in the Safavid dynasty’s establishment of Shia Islam as the state religion in the 16th century. In the 20th century, Iran experienced rapid modernization under the Pahlavi monarchy, followed by the transformative Islamic Revolution of 1979, which established the current Islamic Republic. The country’s modern identity has been further defined by events such as the Iran–Iraq War (1980–1988), which left deep social and political imprints.

Government and Political Structure

Iran operates under a unique system blending theocratic principles with republican governance. The Supreme Leader wields ultimate authority over political, military, and religious matters, while the elected President functions as the head of government. The unicameral parliament, or Majles, enacts legislation, but all laws must pass review by the Guardian Council to ensure conformity with Islamic law. The judiciary also relies heavily on Sharia principles, reflecting the country’s integration of religion and governance.

Economy and Industry

Iran’s economy is heavily reliant on its abundant natural resources, particularly oil and natural gas, which constitute a significant portion of national revenue. Agriculture, mining, and manufacturing also play important roles. Despite its wealth, the economy faces challenges such as international sanctions, inflation, and unemployment, alongside a historical dependence on petroleum exports. Key exports include crude oil, natural gas, pistachios, Persian carpets, and petrochemicals, all of which highlight both tradition and modern industry.

Culture, Arts, and Lifestyle

Iranian culture is among the world’s richest, shaped by millennia of history, literature, and artistic innovation. Persian poetry and literature, with luminaries such as Hafez, Rumi, and Ferdowsi, form the spiritual backbone of Iranian identity. Festivals like Nowruz, the Persian New Year, and religious observances such as Ramadan and Ashura are celebrated with fervor. Iranian cuisine, renowned for its fragrant rice dishes, kebabs, stews, and sweets like baklava, reflects a deep culinary tradition. Sport, particularly football, enjoys widespread popularity, while wrestling, weightlifting, and volleyball maintain traditional and modern appeal.

International Relations and Influence

Iran is a significant geopolitical actor in the Middle East, exerting influence across Iraq, Syria, Lebanon, and Yemen. Its international relationships are complex, marked by tension with the United States and certain Western nations, alongside strategic partnerships with countries such as China and Russia. This duality shapes Iran’s role as both a regional power and a nation navigating the pressures of global diplomacy.

Conclusion

Iran is a land of contrasts—ancient yet modern, desert yet fertile, complex yet captivating. Its enduring history, rich culture, and strategic significance make it a nation that continues to command the world’s attention. For travellers, scholars, and historians alike, Iran offers a tapestry of landscapes, traditions, and stories that illuminate the intersection of the past and present.

Tourism in Iran

Although tourism declined in past decades due to sanctions, regional instability, and poor global image, it has improved slightly since 2015. The main tourist hubs are Tehran, Isfahan, and Shiraz, but exploring by car reveals many hidden gems.

Most visitors are Muslim pilgrims traveling to Mashhad and Qom, making domestic tourism in Iran among the largest in the world. While international travelers often avoid Iran due to safety concerns, travelers consistently find the Iranian people friendly and welcoming, with both Iran and Pakistan being pleasant surprises on many world journeys.

TEHRAN             

the Capital of Iran, is located on the south hillside of the Alborz mountain range with the height of 900 to 1800 m above the sea level Tehran consists of three parts as “Kan“ , ”Markazi“, and “Aftab“; three cities named “Tehran“, “Bomehen“, ”Pardis”; and four rural districts. Azadi square symbolized Tehran in the past and Milad tower plays this role, at present. Tehran’s image abroad was strongly influenced by the Iranian Revolution of the late 1970s. In the last two decades of the 20th century, television screens and newspaper articles around the world portrayed Tehran as a deeply religious city steeped in tradition, fighting against modernization and Westernization. While the Iranian self-image is that of an ancient people with a long history and a rich heritage, Tehran challenges these images, as the corporeal city is relatively young. Most buildings were built after the mid-1960s, and half of the population is less than 27 years old. The city is located on the slopes of the Elburz mountain and its highest peak Mount Damavand (5600 meters) is visible from the city. The lower suburbs are at around 1100 meters while the higher suburbs are at around 1700 meters.

QOM

Just 140Km south of Tehran It is situated on the banks of the Qom River and is considered holy by Shi’a Islam as is the shrine of Fatima bint Musa. The city is the largest centre for Shiʿa scholarship in the world, and is a significant destination of pilgrimage, with around twenty million pilgrims visiting the city every year, the majority being Iranians but also other Shi’a Muslims from all around the world. Another very popular religious site of pilgrimage formerly outside the city of Qom but now more of a suburb is called Jamkaran. Qom’s proximity to Tehran has allowed the clerical establishment easy access to monitor the affairs and decisions of state. Many Grand Ayatollahs possess offices in both Tehran and Qom. Southeast of Qom is the ancient city of Kashan.

ISFAHAN

Isfahan has a population of approximately 1.6 million, making it the third largest city in Iran after Tehran and Mashhad. Isfahan is an important city as it is located at the intersection of the two-principal north–south and east–west routes that traverse Iran. It is famous for its Perso–Islamic architecture, grand boulevards, covered bridges, palaces, tiled mosques, and minarets. Isfahan also has many historical buildings, monuments, paintings and artefacts. Must see parts are Naqsh Jahan Square, Shahi Bazaar, Qeysarie Bazaar The bridges on the Zayanderud river comprise some of the finest architecture in Isfahan. The oldest bridge is the shahrestan bridge.

SHIRAZ

It has a moderate climate and has been a regional trade centre for over a thousand years. Shiraz is one of the oldest cities of ancient Persia. It is also considered by many Iranians to be the city of gardens, due to the many gardens and fruit trees that can be seen in the city. Until 1979 even wine. Must do visits Nasir ol Molk Mosque, Shah Cheragh, Baba Kuhi on top of the mountain overlooking Shiraz, The Quran Gate the entrance to Shiraz and Vakil Bazaar. In winter you could even visit the Pooadkaf ski resort.

PERSEPOLIS

Is also known as Takht-e Jamshid Palace and was the Capital of the Achaemenid Empire. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979 and located around 100km North East of Shiraz. The site includes a 125,000 square meter terrace, partly artificially constructed and partly cut out of a mountain. Persepolis dates to 515 before Christ and is a must-see destination.

TABRIZ

Located in the north-west of Iran is surrounded by mountains in the north, south and east and flat lands as well as the Talkherud salt marsh in the west, like a partly big hollow or a plain with fantastic view among the mountains, at the height of 1350 to 1550 m above the sea level in different areas. This city enjoys a highly cold weather in winter and warm and arid in summer. It is a leading centre for Leather production, in addition to being famous for the other arts and handicrafts, for a long time. Tabriz and Maragheh handmade carpets are famous in all around the world due to their specific design and high quality. Carpet weaving was flourished since Safavid Dynasty and has been exported to western countries especially since Qajar Dynasty, which was continued during Pahlavi. It is still one of the major Iranian exporting goods. Tabriz is considered as one of the major and important Carpet weaving cities of the world. Another must see is the Tabriz Historic Bazaar Complex the largest enclosed complex in Iran and anywhere around the world. The complex includes different commercial, religious, cultural, health, sports, hygienic and residential functions; the complex including many houses for local and non-local traders is the masterpiece of Iranian architecture.

YADZ     

Situated in an arid valley surrounded by Shirkuh and Kharanegh Mountains on the Lut Desert Plain, Yazd is notable for its water reservoirs, alleys, mills, and architecture, making it a remarkable example of hot, arid-area urban design. Yazd is also famous for goldsmithing and jewelry, rivaling Italy in quality.

BAM

Located on the Kerman –Zahedan road in a vast plain between Barez and Kabodi mountains range at the height of 1060 km above the sea level. However the main reason to visit Bam is the Arg-e-Bam the largest mud brick complex of the world, is a huge fort, at the heart of which the main Arg. (castle) Bam city and its Arg had been among the most historical military forts constructed along the Silk Road. Mud brick, clay and rarely stone, brick and palm tree trunk are the main materials used in structure of this place. The historic Arg-e-Bam is composed of different architectural sectors as: ditch, fence, various forts and gates, mosque, bazaar, tekyeh, fire temple, inn, school, bath, prison, gym, and aristocratic or public residential area (interconnected public houses), royal domain including soldier’s home, stables, mill, the house of army commander and the ruler house parts including, an edifice for four seasons (a three-story building as royal palace), monitoring tower, and water well (the drinking water of Arg inhabitants was supplied from the wells in the yard of their houses). Unfortunately, this unique complex was seriously damaged during the earthquake in 2003 in which more than 26000 people were killed and destroyed the city and most of the ancient citadel dating back over 2000 years. During our visit in 2014 it was in the process of being restored and reconstructed by workers from many countries.

KERMAN

Surrounded by mountains at 1800 meters it is the second highest city in Iran. Located on the main road to Bandar Abas and Chabahar. For us the most interesting sight was the Yakhdan (Icehouse) this was the house where Ice was kept in the summer

MEYBOD

Numerous tile and ceramic factories have turned this city into the centre of tile and ceramic industry in Iran. Handicrafts especially Meybod carpet and ceramic products export to the other cities of Yazd, all around of Iran and World. The biggest Quail breeding centre in the country with the second place in the Middle East is in Meybod. Maybod is probably the origin of Zilu weaving art, which was used to cover floors of important places, especially mosques. Agriculture is common in this city from the past. People of this city are Muslims and they speak in Farsi with Yazdi dialect.

ZAHEDAN

First town you reach when arriving into Iran from Pakistan. The most significant characteristics of this area are the intense heat, arid and warm climate. This city possesses service structure and it is an academic, cultural, historical and religious city. It is the gateway to Afghanistan and Pakistan. The town is a mix of Shite Muslims and Sunnite Muslims. The town was also the terminus of the Quetta (Pakistan) Railway line but due to security concerns this train was cancelled in 2014.  This is not a tourist town and the city is full of opium smugglers being so close to the Afghanistan border. Another issue is religious tension and kidnappings. It was only weeks ago the Iran’s elite Islamic Revolutionary Guards lost members in a suicide attack by the Sunni Muslim group Jaish al Adl

CLIMATE:

Iran has many different climates.  ran is a vast country and has different types of climate: mild and quite wet on the coast of the Caspian Sea, continental and arid in the plateau, cold in high mountains, desert and hot on the southern coast and in the southeast.
Iran is an arid country; however, in the west and the north, the rains are a bit more abundant than in the east and the south. The only rainy area is the Caspian Sea coast. Summer is sunny everywhere (except on the shores of the Caspian Sea).

QOM

Summer; 15 degrees at night to 50 degrees during the day

Winter: minus 15 at night to 28 degrees during the day

Rain; January to March however minimal

ISFAHAN

Summer; 20 degrees at night to 44 degrees during the day

Winter: minus 3 at night to 16 degrees during the day

Rain; January to April however minimal

SHIRAZ

Summer; 22 degrees at night to 44 degrees during the day

Winter: minus 2 at night to 16 degrees during the day

Rain; January to April however minimal

TEHRAN

Summer; 20 degrees at night to 45 degrees during the day

Winter: minus 5 at night to 12 degrees during the day

Rain; November to April

BAM

Summer; 22 degrees at night to 49 degrees during the day

Winter: 0 at night to 25 degrees during the day

Rain; very little

ZAHEDAN

Summer; 25 degrees at night to 50 degrees during the day

Winter: 0 at night to 27 degrees during the day

Rain; very little

PART 2 BLOG Pictures and Gallery

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Arriving at

Crossing the Taf Tan border was an experience charged with tension. Just a week earlier, five border guards had been kidnapped—and found dead the very next day—so the air was thick with unease. Yet, as we approached, the formalities at Taf Tan were surprisingly straightforward, taking only about half an hour. Pakistani customs officers, while professional, reminded Clary to cover up before we stepped through the gate into Iran—a small but sharp reminder of the cultural shift we were about to encounter.

On the Iranian side, a cheerful “WELCOME TO IRAN” greeted us, a stark contrast to the somber news from the Pakistani border. Customs here was fast and organized, almost reassuring in its efficiency. Waiting for us beyond the checkpoint was our army escort, ready to shepherd us along smooth, seemingly endless roads out of the danger zone.

The drive to Zahadan, deep in Iranian Baluchistan, took less than three hours, but every kilometer felt significant—a transition from uncertainty to safety. For all the stories of danger in this remote region, the journey for us was surprisingly easy. The escort system in both Pakistan and Iran was meticulous, and despite the recent incidents, we never felt truly unsafe. In those hours on the road, the tension of the border seemed to dissolve into the dry, sunbaked landscapes of southeast Iran, leaving only a sense of awe at having crossed through such a volatile, yet fascinating, part of the world.

SOUTH EAST IRAN

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you tell your average Iranian that you want to go to Zahedan, chances are they will think you need your head examined. Zahedan is normally associated with opium smugglers, kidnapping and religious tensions — not tourism. Zahedan, the capital of Iran’s Sistan and Baluchestan province, is a city that often sparks concern in the minds of many Iranians. Its reputation is tied to its strategic location near the borders of Afghanistan and Pakistan, regions historically known for smuggling, insurgency, and religious tensions. For most, traveling to Zahedan conjures images of opium traffickers, kidnappers, and lawlessness—not of tourism.

From the moment we crossed the Pakistan border, it was clear that the journey through this border region is tightly monitored. We had a mandatory army escort from the border to Zahedan and were forbidden to leave the compound without supervision. The route itself was eye-opening: every second vehicle seemed to carry smuggled gasoline, with fumes so strong that you could almost identify the cargo from afar. Stories of opium smugglers kidnapping foreigners in exchange for seized narcotics only heightened the tension. It was apparent that the police, army, and customs had a hand in this business—its openness made it impossible to ignore.

The next morning, the formality of registering at the local police station reinforced the city’s unusual security climate. We waited for over an hour on a bench in the police chief’s office, as a stream of crack addicts, bag snatchers, and reckless drivers were brought in and locked up. The police chief, clearly not in a hurry to expedite matters, embodied the sluggish bureaucratic side of law enforcement here, while the visible social issues hinted at the city’s deeper struggles.

Zahedan’s challenges are deeply rooted in its history and geography. The province of Sistan and Baluchestan has long been marginalized economically and politically. Its proximity to Afghanistan and Pakistan has made it a conduit for smuggling and cross-border crime. The Baluch ethnic minority, predominantly Sunni in a Shia-majority country, has faced systemic neglect, which has fueled unrest and created a complex relationship between locals and authorities. For travelers, this mix of geopolitical tension, smuggling culture, and social challenges translates into an environment that requires caution, vigilance, and respect for local protocols.

In the end, traveling through Zahedan was both fascinating and nerve-wracking. The raw exposure to border life, the open smuggling, and the interplay of law enforcement and social disorder painted a picture far removed from the more familiar tourist trails of Iran. While few would willingly venture there for leisure, the journey offered a stark insight into a part of Iran that many never see—a place defined by resilience, risk, and the realities of life on the edge of borders.

It didn’t take long at the first army checkpoint for me to realize that the rules here were strict. “No shorts,” I was told sharply. “Long trousers—right now.” Around me, the scene was striking: most men wore long white robes and round religious caps, many sporting long beards that seemed to tell stories of tradition and faith. Women moved gracefully in burqas, their faces hidden but their presence undeniable.

Zahedan lies near the borders of Pakistan and Afghanistan, only about 41 kilometers south of the tripoint where the three countries meet. The city carries a reputation for danger—stories of bombings and unrest are common—but its desert streets held a quiet tension that felt almost surreal. Knowing the risks, we didn’t linger long and set off the next day toward Bam, eager to leave the city behind.

Yet beyond this border region, Iran revealed a very different side. The country is remarkably safe for travelers, and the people are incredibly warm and curious. English speakers everywhere seemed to ask the same question with genuine interest: “What do you hear about Iran in your country?” Their smiles were open, their hospitality heartfelt—a stark contrast to the tense first impression at Zahedan.

Iran, I realized, is a country of contrasts: harsh deserts and bustling cities, strict traditions and boundless warmth, danger in some corners and safety in others. And through it all, the people remain its most unforgettable feature.

Perched along the legendary Silk Road, the city of Bam in southeastern Iran has long been a crossroads of culture, trade, and history. Its crown jewel, the Arg-e Bam, rose majestically on a hilltop—once the largest mud-brick fortress in the world. Built over 2,000 years ago, the citadel was a masterpiece of ancient engineering, with three concentric walls of sun-baked mud bricks reinforced by palm timbers, encircling the bustling old city within. Inside, winding alleys, grand residences, and caravanserais spoke of a thriving community that endured through centuries of conquest, trade, and desert winds.

The surrounding plains were dotted with verdant date palms, their sweet fruit a lifeline for local farmers and a prized commodity across the region. Bam’s strategic position on the Silk Road meant it was more than a city; it was a hub of commerce and culture, where merchants and travelers passed stories, goods, and ideas between East and West.

Tragically, in 2003, a devastating earthquake tore through Bam, claiming over 26,000 lives and reducing much of the modern city and the ancient citadel to rubble. Yet, the legacy of Bam endures. In 2004, UNESCO recognized the city as a World Heritage site, honoring not only its architectural brilliance but also its resilience and place in the tapestry of human history. Today, the ruins of Arg-e Bam stand as a poignant reminder of the city’s former glory and the enduring spirit of its people.

 

 

Our next stop was Yazd, also known as the “Bride of the Desert,” a city renowned for its unique architecture. It is famous throughout Iran for the high quality of its handicrafts and silk weaving. With a history spanning over 3,000 years, Yazd boasts some of the finest examples of traditional desert Persian residential architecture. Its arid climate led to the development of one of the largest qanat networks in the world, and Yazdi qanat makers are considered the most skilled in Iran.

To deal with the extremely hot summers, many old buildings in Yazd have magnificent windcatchers, and large underground areas. The city is also home to prime examples of yakhchals, the latter of which were used to store ice retrieved from glaciers in the nearby mountains.

CENTRAL IRAN

 

The palace complex at Persepolis, founded by Darius the Great around 518 B.C., rises from the Marv Dasht plain like a ghost of an empire long past. Walking among the ruins, I could almost hear the whispers of ancient courtiers and the echo of ceremonial drums in the majestic audience halls. The air was dry and warm, carrying the faint scent of dust and ancient stone, and the sun cast long shadows over the intricately carved reliefs that once displayed the wealth and power of the Persian Empire. Kouh-e Rahmat, the “Mountain of Mercy,” loomed behind the site, its slopes shimmering in the early morning light, adding a serene backdrop to the ruins’ stark grandeur. The majesty of Persepolis was forever marred by its destruction in 330 B.C., when Alexander the Great looted its treasures, reportedly carried away on 20,000 mules and 5,000 camels. From that devastation until its rediscovery in 1620, the city lay buried under centuries of dust and silence.

That night, we camped in the carpark of Persepolis, a surreal experience in itself. The air was cool, tinged with the scent of campfires, and dozens of Iranians—young families, couples, and solo travelers—gathered around, chatting, laughing, and sharing food. Their warmth was contagious, and despite the language barrier, the friendly gestures and smiles made us feel instantly welcome. Invitations to visit their homes were extended again and again, a testament to the legendary Iranian hospitality.

The next morning, we set off for Shiraz, the cultural heart of Fars province. As we entered the city, the scent of blooming orange trees and jasmine mingled with the aroma of street food: sizzling kebabs and sweet pastries. Shiraz, once famous for producing the world-renowned Syrah wine, now charmed visitors with its poetry, gardens, and friendly people. Young Iranians, almost all fluent in English, approached us with curiosity and openness, eager to share stories and learn about our journey.

In Shiraz, we wandered through the tranquil gardens and mausoleums of Saadi Tomb and Hafez Tomb. The gentle rustle of leaves, the distant chirping of birds, and the soft murmur of visitors created an almost sacred atmosphere. At Arg of Karim Khan, the towering citadel walls and echoing courtyards spoke of centuries of power, defense, and history, while the smell of old stone and dust hinted at lives once lived within these fortresses.

From Shiraz, we traveled north to Esfahan, one of Iran’s oldest cities, home to a population of around one million. Situated 414 km south of Tehran and 481 km north of Shiraz, Esfahan’s streets are alive with the sounds of merchants calling out their wares in bustling bazaars, the clinking of tea glasses, and the soft prayer calls from the mosques. This 2,500-year-old city served as Persia’s capital from 1598 to 1722, and its architectural splendor still captivates: domes and minarets shimmer with turquoise tiles in the sunlight, intricate patterns adorn every surface, and fountains gurgle in peaceful squares, adding a refreshing chill to the warm air. Walking through Esfahan, I felt immersed in centuries of history, culture, and life, where every sight, sound, and smell seemed to tell a story of a civilization that has shaped the world.

 

 

The city is known for its silver filigree and metal work and the abundance of great historical monuments. Esfahan is under domination of Arabs, like other cities of Iran. The stunning mosques of Esfahan are among the most beautiful and interesting in the world. Imam Mosque (it was called Shah mosque before Iran’s Revolution) it is an excellent example of Islamic architecture of Iran. The Shah Mosque of Esfahan is one of the everlasting masterpieces of architecture in Iran. It is registered, along with the Naghsh-i Jahan Square, as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Royal Palace is forty-eight metres high and there are seven floors, each accessible by a difficult spiral staircase. Esfahan has some beautiful bridges, an example is  The Shahrestan Bridge built in the 11th Century. It is one of the oldest surviving bridges in Iran. Khaju Bridge, built in 1650, is the finest bridge in the province of Esfahan. There is also The Bridge of 33 Arches, built in 1602. We read on the internet that this area operates many nuclear facilities east of Esfahan, notably including Iran’s uranium conversion facility. The site also houses three small research reactors, constructed with Chinese and North Korean assistance. The Esfahan site also houses Iran’s largest missile production facility. Our next stop was the holy city of Qum. Qum is the smallest province in Iran. The province has an area of approximately 12,000 square kilometres. It is bounded by Tehran and Sāweh to the north, Delījān and Kāshān to the south, and the Salt Lake and Tafresh to the east. The province includes one city, four regions, nine rural districts and 256 villages. Since it adjoins the central desert, Qum has a semi-desert climate. During the Islamic Revolution in 1979 CE, the population of Qum had reached about 400,000. After the revolution, the city underwent rapid growth and its current population approaches 1,000,000, many whom are religious students coming from all over the world to study in this great centre of Islamic.

Aside from being a world-renowned centre of Islamic knowledge, Qum is also a commercial city, due to its location at the crossroads that connects northern Iran to its south, and the vast number of pilgrims. Qum consists of over 200 Islamic education and research centres and organisations, catering for over 40,000 scholars and students from over 80 countries of the world. Almost all its women are covered from head to toe. Mullahs walk around in flowing brown robes. The seminaries are packed with earnest young students, steeped in the values of the Islamic Revolution. Locals say there are informers around every corner. We are told the city is home to many of the baseej militiamen who have beaten and killed demonstrators in Tehran.

In Qom, the authorities move silently but decisively. Satellite dishes that dare to reach for foreign airwaves vanish overnight, and the streets are patrolled with laws that forbid unmarried couples from even walking side by side. Yet behind closed doors, in whispered conversations, the cracks in the city’s façade begin to show. Here, the younger generation, plugged into Western media and ideas, quietly rebels—small sparks of discontent against a rigid world.

The city itself seems caught in a strange tug-of-war. Once, even selling a simple T-shirt could be deemed illegal. Today, modernity creeps in from the edges, transforming familiar streets and hidden corners. Among them lies a paradoxical red-light district, known to locals, where mullahs can obtain a temporary marriage license to spend a few hours—or a day—with a woman, skirting the line of the law while flouting its spirit. (This way it is not prostitution!!!)

Qom is a city of contrasts: devout on the surface, yet pulsing with secret, forbidden desires; rigid in its rules, yet quietly bending under the pressures of change. It is here, in the hidden spaces and whispered dealings, that the true story of the city unfolds.

TEHRAN to TURKEY BORDER

Tehran’s traffic has a reputation for chaos, but coming from India, it felt surprisingly organized—almost like navigating a giant, well-oiled machine. The roads themselves are a dream: wide, smooth, and stretching across an intricate web of nearly 400 kilometers of freeways, interchanges, ramps, and looping flyovers. Our only real challenge was dodging the countless “NO TRUCKS” signs, which sent us on a series of unexpected detours through the city’s bustling streets. Nestled on the northern slopes of the majestic Alborz Mountains, Tehran unfolds dramatically beneath you, a metropolis that pulses with life yet somehow balances order and energy in its arteries of asphalt. Driving here is an adventure in contrasts—between speed and caution, chaos and control, city and mountain.

Tehran, the national capital of Iran, is also the most populated city in the country. It covers an area of 1,500 square kilometers and sits at an altitude of 1,200 meters. The wider metropolitan area has a population of around 14 million, making Tehran the largest city in Western Asia. The city boasts the most modernized infrastructure in Iran. A longstanding symbol of Tehran is the Azadi Tower, originally named “Shahyad Tower,” which was built to commemorate the 2,500th anniversary of the Persian Empire. After the Iranian Revolution, its name was changed to “Azadi Tower,” meaning “Freedom Tower.” Despite its attractions, we are not big city people, and since Europe was calling, we didn’t spend much time in Tehran.

Next, we visited Tabriz, located about 600 km northwest of Tehran. It is near the borders of Iraq to the west, Turkey to the northwest, and Azerbaijan to the north. Tabriz is the capital of Azerbaijan Province and one of Iran’s major trade centers. It is the fifth most populous city in Iran, after Tehran, Mashhad, Isfahan, and Karaj, with a population of around 3 million. The city has a rich history as a crossroads of cultures and commerce and is famed for its traditional bazaar, the Tabriz Historic Bazaar Complex, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The bazaar is a vibrant network of vaulted corridors filled with shops selling carpets, handicrafts, and spices, reflecting centuries of trade.

Tabriz is also home to several beautiful historical landmarks. The Blue Mosque, renowned for its intricate tilework and elegant architecture, is a symbol of the city’s Islamic heritage. The Arg-e Tabriz, a massive citadel dating back to the 14th century, and the Saat Tower, an iconic clock tower in the city center, highlight Tabriz’s architectural diversity. Additionally, the city is famous for its culture of carpet weaving, and Tabriz carpets are considered some of the finest in the world. Nature lovers can explore the nearby El-Gölü Park, a scenic lake surrounded by gardens, which offers a peaceful retreat from the bustling city.

With its blend of history, culture, and commerce, Tabriz provided a fascinating contrast to Tehran, allowing us to experience a more regional, traditional side of Iran before continuing our journey to Europe.

Tabriz is a major hub for heavy industries, including automobile manufacturing, machine tools, oil and petrochemicals, and cement production. It was here that we filled both diesel tanks—at just 6 euro cents per litre (or 9 AUD per litre)—about 35 km from the Turkish border. At Sero, our last Iran Rials were spent on more diesel. The border crossing was surprisingly fast and efficient—only 40 minutes—and with that, it was goodbye Iran, after sharing our final chai with the border guards.

 

PART 3, VIDEO 

Iran 

 

1. IRAN