Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan

PART 1, General Information
PART 2, BLOG Pictures and Gallery

PART 1, GENERAL INFORMATION

Capital city; Amman
Population; 10 million
Currency; Jordanian Dinar
Km travelled; 1100
Days in; 23
Languages; Arabic

Jordan – Overview

Jordan is located at the crossroads of Asia, Africa, and Europe, making it a historic meeting point for trade routes, cultures, and religions. A pro-Western country, Jordan maintains strong relationships with Europe and the United States. Although considered a middle-income nation, about 14% of the population still lives below the poverty line, and the country faces significant economic pressures—particularly due to hosting one of the largest refugee populations per capita in the world.

More than two million Palestinians (around 400,000 still living in refugee camps), nearly 1.5 million Syrians, and hundreds of thousands of Iraqis have settled in Jordan over the past decades. Despite the strain on resources, the country has gained international respect for its ongoing hospitality and stability.

The King of Jordan also serves as commander of the armed forces, and the monarchy plays a central role in political life. Jordan’s economy is relatively diversified, with major sectors including trade, finance, mining (especially phosphates and potash), construction, tourism, and manufacturing. Recently, renewable energy—particularly solar power—has also become an area of growth.

Culture in Jordan

Jordanian culture is deeply rooted in Bedouin traditions, hospitality, and respect. Visitors often notice the warmth of Jordanians, who take pride in welcoming guests—an important element of Bedouin identity known as diyafa. It is common for locals to invite travelers for tea or coffee, which carries strong social meaning in Jordanian society.

Arabic is the official language, though English is widely spoken, especially in urban areas and tourist destinations. About 95% of the population is Muslim, predominantly Sunni, and Islamic traditions shape daily life, holidays, and social customs. However, Jordan also has a small but significant Christian minority, and religious coexistence is generally peaceful.

Traditional foods include mansaf, Jordan’s national dish—a lamb dish cooked in fermented yogurt and served with rice. Other popular foods are falafel, hummus, shawarma, and maqluba. Music, poetry, and dabke (a traditional line dance) also feature strongly in cultural celebrations.

Tourism in Jordan

Jordan’s tourism industry suffered heavily after the Arab Spring, with visitor numbers dropping by about 70% from 2010–2016. However, the country remains one of the Middle East’s safest and most rewarding travel destinations, known for its dramatic natural beauty, biblical sites, desert landscapes, and world-renowned archaeological treasures like Petra.

Jordan’s terrain includes lush valleys, rugged mountains, dramatic deserts, fertile farmland, and the unique Dead Sea basin. The country also forms part of several major pilgrimage routes, hosting sites significant to Islam, Christianity, and Judaism.

Key Destinations

Amman

The capital is a modern city built around ancient foundations. Visitors can explore the Roman Theatre, Citadel Hill, and old souks before transitioning to modern cafés, restaurants, and malls. Amman’s mix of old and new—combined with its lively arts scene, street murals, and thriving food culture—make it an excellent introduction to the region.

Wadi Rum

Often called “The Valley of the Moon,” Wadi Rum is a landscape of towering sandstone mountains, natural arches, deep red sands, and ancient petroglyphs. Bedouin communities still live here, offering visitors Jeep tours, camel treks, and overnight stays in traditional or luxury desert camps. The area is so dramatic that films such as Lawrence of Arabia, The Martian, and several sci-fi productions were filmed here.

Petra

A UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. Built by the Nabataeans over 2,000 years ago, Petra includes carved tombs, temples, and an entire ancient city hidden among rose-red cliffs. Beyond the iconic Treasury, highlights include the Royal Tombs, the Street of Facades, and the strenuous hike up to the Monastery. Visiting Petra by night—walking through the Siq lit by candlelight—is another unforgettable experience.

Jordan Valley & the Dead Sea

This region is part of the Great Rift Valley and sits more than 400 meters below sea level. The Dead Sea’s heavy mineral content makes floating effortless and its mud is believed to carry therapeutic benefits. Luxury resorts line the coast, offering spas, pools, and access to private beaches. The area is also close to significant historical sites, including Mount Nebo (where Moses is said to have viewed the Promised Land) and Bethany Beyond the Jordan, believed to be the baptism site of Jesus.

Jerash

The ancient city of Jerash is one of the best-preserved Roman provincial towns in the world. Visitors can wander through the Oval Plaza, Hadrian’s Arch, Roman theaters, temples, colonnaded avenues, and bath complexes. Annual events like the Jerash Festival showcase music, dance, and cultural performances in these historic settings.

Aqaba

Jordan’s only coastal city, offering a relaxed atmosphere with shopping, seafood restaurants, and easy access to the Red Sea. Aqaba is popular for diving and snorkeling due to its clear waters and coral reefs. While some beaches in the central town can be dirty, the southern beach areas and resort zones provide much cleaner, more pleasant seaside experiences.

Additional Highlights

Dana Biosphere Reserve

Jordan’s largest nature reserve, featuring stunning canyons, wildlife, hiking trails, and eco-lodges.

Madaba

Known as the “City of Mosaics,” home to the famous 6th-century mosaic map of the Holy Land.

Desert Castles

Scattered across eastern Jordan, these early Islamic structures include palaces, hunting lodges, and caravan stations.

Mount Nebo

A major pilgrimage site with panoramic views over the Holy Land.

King’s Highway

A historic route winding through mountains, valleys, Crusader castles, and picturesque villages.

CLIMATE
The climate in Jordan varies from the coast to further inland it can even snow in Jordan. The climate is classified from Mediterranean to arid desert climate. Summers are long and hot; winters are cool and even includes snowfall on the higher levels.

AMMAN
Summer; 25 degrees at night to 40 degrees during the day
Winter; 5 degrees at night to 20 degrees during the day
Rainfall; 50 to 60mm per month in winter, nil in summer

DEAD SEA
Summer; 15 degrees at night to 40 degrees during the day
Winter; 5 degrees at night to 24 degrees during the day
Rainfall; wettest months Jan and Feb., minimal rest of the year

AQABA
Summer; 24 degrees during the night to 40 degrees during the day
Winter; 10 degrees at night to 25 degrees during the day
Rainfall; 3 to 4mm per month in winter and nil in summer.

PART 2, BLOG PICTURES AND GALLERY

We woke up to a glorious morning after a pleasantly cool night of 24°C. The day unfolded lazily on the beach, as we tried to catch up on emails and meet fellow travelers. Some had just arrived from Europe—heading onward to Egypt or Australia via India. It was surprising to see so many visitors in Jordan, but little did we know what awaited us.

Back in the more bustling areas, European holidaymakers were everywhere, traveling by car or truck. This was the first time we encountered so many Europeans exploring by road. The weather couldn’t have been better, with the extreme heat finally behind us. Our campsite even had a swimming pool, a welcome bonus.

However, the return of civilization also brought higher prices and a clear divide between locals and tourists. Fuel, for instance, is far more expensive than we’re used to—$1 per liter compared to 7 cents back in Saudi Arabia. But for Europeans accustomed to paying €1.50 per liter, it’s hardly shocking.

Jordan’s appeal is undeniable. Its combination of warm beaches, the Red Sea, diving opportunities, and historic sites makes it an ideal destination. Traveling around the small country is effortless, thanks to excellent roads. Aqaba, in particular, shines with its Red Sea coastline, offering some of the best snorkeling and diving experiences in the world.

Aqaba is a paradise where the gentle rhythm of the sea and the temperate climate have crafted a perfect haven for life beneath the waves. Swim here, and you’re greeted by playful dolphins weaving through schools of dazzlingly colored fish, while graceful sea turtles glide by with serene elegance. As night falls, the underwater world transforms—crabs, lobsters, and shrimp emerge from their hiding places, busy hunting under the soft glow of moonlight. And the best part? No stingers, no crocodiles, no sharks—just pure, safe magic.

But Aqaba’s charm isn’t only underwater. For over five and a half thousand years, this city has been a vital crossroads, linking Asia, Africa, and Europe through both land and sea. Its rich history is etched into every corner, from bustling markets to ancient ruins. Among the treasures here is a site believed to house the oldest purpose-built church in the world—a quiet reminder of the city’s enduring significance.

After a week of relaxation and exploration, leaving Aqaba is bittersweet. We lingered in the warm waters of the Red Sea—specifically the sparkling Gulf of Aqaba—and also enjoyed the refreshing pool at Bedouin Village, where we camped under the stars. Aqaba isn’t just a destination; it’s a living story, a tapestry of vibrant marine life, rich history, and unforgettable experiences that stay with you long after you leave.

WADI RUM

We left Aqaba under a sky heavy with dark clouds, the mountains ahead barely visible through the gathering gloom. Before long, the heavens opened, and a sudden thunderstorm swept over the desert. Rain in Wadi Rum—so rare, so unexpected—pelted down, turning the red sands into a shimmering mosaic of droplets. It was exhilarating, almost cinematic: lightning flashing over towering rock formations, the thunder echoing off cliffs that have stood untouched for millennia.

Despite its growing fame—around 2,000 tourists a day are drawn here—the desert felt astonishingly timeless. The vast expanse of sand and stone seemed to stretch endlessly, unmarked by human hands. Trails carved by wind and water, rather than vehicles or crowds, led the eye to distant mountains, their silhouettes softened by the rain. Each formation, each dune, felt sacred and eternal.

As we moved deeper into the valley, the storm added a sense of intimacy to the landscape. The usual harsh sun was replaced by a silvery glow, and the desert, so often harsh and unforgiving, seemed alive and tender. Wadi Rum wasn’t just a place to see; it was a place to feel—vast, wild, and humbling, yet achingly beautiful in its quiet power.

Even as the rain eased and the clouds began to break, revealing patches of blue sky, the desert retained that sense of magic: a place largely untouched by humanity, where time itself seems to slow, and where every stone and shadow tells a story older than any of us.

Towering monolithic rock formations rise from the desert floor to heights of 1,750 meters, creating a natural playground for serious mountaineers. Hikers can wander through the boundless, tranquil spaces, explore hidden canyons and waterholes, and uncover 4,000-year-old rock drawings alongside countless other treasures this vast wilderness holds. The first thing that caught our attention, however, was the steady stream of tourist buses, brimming with European visitors. We strolled around the Visitor Centre, watched the film about Wadi Rum, and decided to wait out the rain before venturing further. The day before, in Aqaba, we had met a Dutch couple, Martijn and Maud, who were traveling to Australia in their VW Combi bus. They came searching for us at the Visitor Centre, and we agreed to camp together that night, right in the heart of the Wadi Rum desert.

Described by Lawrence of Arabia as “vast and echoing,” Wadi Rum certainly lives up to its reputation. Its desert landscape is breathtaking, with sheer-sided mountains of sandstone and granite rising from open valleys to heights of over 1,700 meters. Narrow canyons are carved deep into these mountains, creating striking natural formations, and the area is dotted with fascinating rock art.

Wadi Rum is now a protected area, covering more than 720 square kilometers, offering ample space for exploration and the chance to test 4WD skills in soft desert sand. The region is home to several Bedouin tribes, whose traditional goat-hair tents dot the landscape. While many now rely on tourism for their livelihood, they still maintain goat herds and preserve aspects of their traditional way of life.

Surprisingly, Wadi Rum also supports a diverse array of wildlife, including the Syrian wolf, striped hyena, and Nubian ibex, adding to the richness of this unique desert environment.

After we returned from exploring Wadi Rum, we had a cup of tea with the local Bedouin tribe and settled for the evening enjoying the mountainous desert and stars; not as many as we have been used to, but this was due to a shiny moon. After a perfect sunsets and perfect sunrises over the last 4 days it was time to move on to our next destination Petra, which is only 100km north of Wadi Rum. The whole 100km was on a perfect bitumen surface, two to three lanes wide and the highway climbs to 1700m above sea level.

PETRA

Discovering the Magic of Petra: A Journey into the Rose-Red City

Arriving at Petra is nothing short of breathtaking—though if you show up around 9 or 10 a.m., be prepared: the car parks are overflowing, and there are over a hundred tour buses queued up like sardines. On average, Petra sees about 4,000 visitors a day, but on peak days that number can soar past 30,000. The crowds are a fascinating mix—from lightly clad Northern Europeans basking in the sun to women from Saudi Arabia wrapped like a birthday present, with the occasional toe peeking out.

We stayed overnight at the carpark nearby, which gave us a head start the next morning and a chance to experience Petra almost to ourselves. The entrance fee was $154 AUD for a two-day pass—barely more than a single-day ticket—and it was worth every penny. Petra is unique in every sense, and words can hardly capture its grandeur. Nestled among multi-colored mountains and carved into steep cliffs, this “dead city” is one of the world’s great archaeological treasures.

The city’s ancient inhabitants, the Nabataeans, transformed the cliffs into a thriving capital. Everywhere you look, Petra’s wonders are carved directly from solid rock. Tombs, facades, theatres, stairways—all showcase the incredible skill of this ancient civilization. Among the highlights is a Roman-style theatre, which could seat 3,000 spectators, as well as obelisks, temples, sacrificial altars, and colonnaded streets.

One of the most spectacular sights is the Ad-Deir Monastery, perched high above the valley. A challenging climb of 800 rock-cut steps rewards you with sweeping views and a sense of awe that words cannot convey.

Despite being winter, the temperature hovered around 33°C, and we walked over 10 km exploring the site. My advice: arrive early, ideally when the gates open at 6 a.m. By then, you can enjoy a quiet, almost private experience before the buses arrive in force.

Petra isn’t just a place you see—it’s a place you feel. The blend of history, natural beauty, and sheer human ingenuity makes it a destination that defies expectation. No matter how many articles you read or photos you see, nothing truly prepares you for the moment you step into this rose-red city carved from rock.

Step into Petra, the legendary “Rose City,” and discover a world where history and culture come alive. Within the site, two remarkable museums—the Petra Archaeological Museum and the Petra Nabataean Museum—display treasures unearthed from the region, offering a fascinating glimpse into Petra’s vibrant past.

For breathtaking views and a touch of spiritual history, climb to the 13th-century shrine atop Mount Aaron in the Sharah range. Built by the Mamluk Sultan Al Nasir Mohammad to honor Aaron, the brother of Moses, the shrine overlooks the rugged landscapes of southern Jordan, providing a serene spot for reflection.

Wander through the site, and you’ll encounter lively artisan stalls set up by locals from Wadi Musa and nearby Bedouin communities. Here, handcrafted pottery, intricate Bedouin jewelry, and bottles of brilliantly striated, multicolored sands make for unique souvenirs—perfect reminders of your journey through this ancient wonder.

Founded around the 6th century BC by the Nabataean Arabs, Petra began as a settlement for this nomadic tribe and quickly grew into a thriving commercial empire that stretched into Syria. Walking through its winding streets, carved façades, and majestic tombs, it’s easy to imagine the city bustling with traders, travelers, and stories from millennia past

EXTRACT FROM THE VISITOR CENTER PROMOTION

Petra the world wonder is without doubt Jordan`s most valuable treasure and greatest tourist attraction. It is a vast, unique city, carved into the sheer rock face by the Nabataeans, an industrious Arab people who settled here more than 2000 years ago, turning it into an important junction for the silk, spice and other trade routes that linked China, India and Southern Arabia with Egypt, Syria, Greece and Rome. Entrance to the city is through the Siq, a narrow gorge, over 1 kilometre in length, which is flanked on either side by soaring, 80 metre high cliffs. Just walking through the Siq is an experience in itself. The colours and formations of the rocks are dazzling. As you reach the end of the Siq you will catch your first glimpse of Al-Khazneh (Treasury). This is an awe-inspiring experience. A massive facade, 30m wide and 43m high, carved out of the sheer, dusky pink, rock-face and dwarfing everything around it. It was carved in the early 1st century as the tomb of an important Nabataean king and represents the engineering genius of these ancient people. The Treasury is just the first of the many wonders that make up Petra.

You will need at least four or five days to really explore everything here. As you enter the Petra valley you will be overwhelmed by the natural beauty of this place and its outstanding architectural achievements. There are hundreds of elaborate rock-cut tombs with intricate carvings – unlike the houses, which were destroyed mostly by earthquakes, the tombs were carved to last throughout the afterlife and 500 have survived, empty but bewitching as you file past their dark openings. The giant red mountains and vast mausoleums of a departed race have nothing in common with modern civilization, and ask nothing of it except to be appreciated at their true value – as one of the greatest wonders ever wrought by Nature and Man. Although much has been written about Petra, nothing really prepares you for this amazing place. It has to be seen, to be believed. A Roman-style theatre, which could seat 3,000 people. There are obelisks, temples, sacrificial altars and colonnaded streets, and high above, overlooking the valley, is the impressive Ad-Deir Monastery – a flight of 800 rock cut steps takes you there.

DEAD SEA

After we spent a few days in Petra, we left for the lowest point on Earth. We drove deep into the Jordan Valley to the Dead Sea. After going close to the lake, we found a camp spot that showed 443 meters below sea level. The road from Petra to the Dead Sea must be seen to be believed, despite being hazy due to the heat, it was spectacular.

Despite being some of the friendliest people on earth, it seems that environmental awareness is not always a priority in the region. Just like in Sudan and Saudi Arabia, here in Jordan, trash is often left on the streets without a second thought. Even at the Dead Sea, an area of breathtaking natural beauty, the scene is disheartening—plastic, glass, cigarette butts, and even baby nappies float in the water.

I’ve heard that the King of Jordan is a devoted diver who cares deeply about protecting the reefs in Jordan and the Red Sea. Perhaps he could involve someone like Aussie Ian Kernon and organize a “Cleanup Arabia Day.” The Dead Sea deserves this kind of care.

The Dead Sea is one of the most spectacular natural and spiritual landscapes in the world. It’s the lowest point on Earth’s surface and the richest source of natural salts, accumulating treasures over thousands of years. Where the rocks meet the water, thick, gleaming white deposits give the shoreline a snow-like, surreal appearance. True to its name, the Dead Sea is devoid of life due to its extreme salinity and mineral content, which also gives its waters renowned therapeutic properties. And because the salt content is up to 20 times that of most the world`s oceans, you can float in the Dead Sea without effort, which makes swimming here a truly unique experience not to be missed. This is the only place in the world where you can recline on the water to read a newspaper! Without doubt, the world`s most amazing place, the Jordan Rift Valley is a dramatic, beautiful landscape, which, at the Dead Sea, is over 400 metres below sea level.

It’s a place of wonder and significance, yet it is under threat from neglect. Protecting it should be a priority, for both the environment and future generations.

There’s something surreal about the Dead Sea. Sitting at the lowest point on Earth, it’s not just a body of water—it’s a shimmering, salty wonderland where the mountains rise dramatically on one side and the rolling hills of Jerusalem stretch out on the other. Rivers like the Jordan feed it, but the water has nowhere to go. It simply evaporates, leaving behind a thick, mineral-rich brew that has fueled everything from ancient medicine to modern industry. And if you’re into biblical history, this is the land that once cradled Sodom, Gomorrah, Adman, Zebouin, and Zoar—talk about walking through history.

After a bit of meandering, we stumbled upon the Dead Sea Marriott Hotel. The car park was a quiet oasis, and we slipped in under “Day Parking.” A swim was tempting—but as non-guests, we’d have to shell out 35 Jordanian dinar each. With the sun already leaning toward the horizon, we decided to save our wallets and our swims for another day.

Next stop: the Mövenpick Hotel, just down the road. They had a “swim-and-dine” deal: 20 JD for the pool and 20 JD for food or drinks. We didn’t swim, but we did settle into the bar for happy hour—half-price drinks and a front-row seat to the sunset painting the Dead Sea in shades of gold, orange, and pink. It was one of those moments where you just sit back, sip slowly, and marvel at the world.

And then came the unexpected highlight: dinner. Not in a fancy restaurant, not on the hotel terrace—but in the car park, in front of our truck, with a portable BBQ. Who knew you could have a perfectly good BBQ in a parking lot? Apparently, we could—and it was amazing.

The people here are the real treasure. Friendly, warm, and endlessly helpful, they make every challenge and every adventure easier, and every memory brighter. After four days without a proper shower, we finally decided tomorrow would be a splurge day: pool swims, a hot shower, and a leisurely lunch by the water. Because sometimes, the little indulgences make the journey unforgettable.

After a year in Africa, we decided we deserved a little pampering and heard about a newly opened Beach Club called ‘O Beach’, built on a European concept. Feeling indulgent, we paid the $75 entry fee—and it was worth every penny.

Inside, everything was first-class. Large daybeds lined the pools, there were three expansive swimming pools, swim-up bars, three restaurants, a spa, and open-air cooling systems that made the 35°C “winter” heat bearable. The music matched the style we enjoy, and best of all, the grounds were spotless.

We also had our first dip in the Dead Sea—what an unforgettable experience! The salt is so dense that you literally float effortlessly on the surface. The rest of the day was pure relaxation: soaking up the sun, enjoying a few drinks, and having a leisurely lunch. The club opens at 9 am and doesn’t close until 5 am. After 9:30 pm, it transforms into a lively open-air nightclub with live entertainment.

We had hoped to stay overnight in the club’s car park, but this wasn’t allowed, so we moved to the nearby public beach car park, overlooking the water. Tomorrow, we look forward to another day at the Dead Sea, possibly our last swim in warm waters, as we’ve heard that parts of Turkey are already experiencing snow and that temperatures along the South Coast are around 20°C.

Our next stop is Amman, just 70 km away. On a less positive note, rubbish is everywhere outside the club, and nobody seems to care. Last night, we could see the distant lights of Israel and Jerusalem, and we realized that the border between Israel and Jordan is just 3 km from the beach. This morning, the sunrise over the white mountains of Israel was stunning.

We also witnessed something unusual: council workers spraying DDT to kill flies. It was the first time we’d seen this since childhood, and considering most countries have banned it, it felt outdated. Clearly, cleaning up the garbage would have been a more effective solution than chemical spraying.

All in all, the day was a blend of luxury, natural wonder, and surprising contrasts—a reminder of both how beautiful and complex this part of the world can be.

AMMAN

As it is less than an hour’s drive to Amman, we decided to spend the day at the Public Beach. Friday and Saturday make up the weekend here, and we hoped that tomorrow, Sunday, we would be able to get our truck serviced—oil, grease, and filter changed.

Late in the afternoon, we left the Dead Sea and climbed 1,500 meters to Amman over a distance of around 80 km. By now, we are well on the traveler’s trail, and we had been told about a German mission in Amman where we could camp. It was also suggested as a good place to service the truck.

By the way, we have enjoyed Jordan and its western lifestyle, along with the conveniences that come with it. After the first cool night since Addis Ababa, I had no trouble getting out of bed, although our friend the Imam woke us up at 4 a.m., as usual. Clary became ill last night and arranged herself a bed at the Mission where we were staying.

At 10:30 a.m., the vehicle service was completed at a cost of 68 AUD (foreigners’ price), still much cheaper than at the Mitsubishi dealer. The campsite where we are staying is located on the outskirts of a Palestinian refugee camp in the eastern part of Amman. The place where we could park is called Theodor Schneller Schule. Its motto is to offer children perspective and to educate them not only with the correct principles but also with tolerance.

On Monday, Clary felt well again, and I felt okay, though a little weary. I was not sick enough to stay another day with the truck, so we decided to explore Amman.

Amman, the capital of Jordan, is a fascinating city of contrasts—a unique blend of old and new, ideally situated on hilly terrain between the desert and the fertile Jordan Valley. It was a real change after Sudan and Ethiopia. In the commercial heart of the city, ultra-modern buildings, hotels, smart restaurants, art galleries, and boutiques sit comfortably alongside traditional coffee shops and tiny artisan workshops. Everywhere there is evidence of the city’s much older past. The one thing we really noticed was the drop in temperature.

The downtown area of Amman is much older and more traditional, with smaller businesses producing and selling everything from exquisite jewelry to everyday household items. The people of Amman are extremely hospitable; they warmly welcome visitors and take pride in showing them around their fascinating and vibrant city. Our taxi driver provided commentary as we visited the City’s Citadel and the Roman Theatre, and in the afternoon, when we went grocery shopping, he insisted on helping us—unbelievably kind.

The Citadel is one of the highest points in the city, offering views that are typical of the Middle East. This area dates back to around 2000 BCE. During our visit, we explored the remains of the ancient citadel, the adjoining archaeological museum, and a large, finely preserved Roman amphitheater that once seated 6,000 people.

Amman has also experienced a major influx of Palestinian refugees, with around 500,000 arriving during the 1990–91 Iraqi invasion of Kuwait. Traffic in the city is chaotic, to put it politely, and few people seem to follow traffic rules—two lanes easily become five. Like other Arabic countries we have visited, the city is also plagued by plastic and rubbish, often thrown from cars without any regard for the environment.

AMMAN TO SYRIA BORDER

We woke up early, hoping to beat the peak-hour traffic in Amman. It was cold—very cold—when we stirred from our campsite. By 6:45 a.m., we were on the road, but it took only ten minutes before we ground to a halt in chaotic traffic. An hour later, we had traveled just 13 kilometers, finally leaving the city behind and heading toward Jerash.

Jerash is a close second only to Petra on the list of Jordan’s must-see destinations. This ancient city boasts an unbroken chain of human occupation spanning more than 6,500 years. Conquered by General Pompey in 63 BC, it became part of the Roman Empire and rose to prominence as one of the ten great Roman cities.

Jerash, one of the best-preserved Roman provincial towns in the world, was hidden for centuries under sand and has been excavated and restored over the past 70 years. The city showcases classic Roman urbanism: paved and colonnaded streets, hilltop temples, theatres, public squares, baths, fountains, and fortified walls with towers and gates. Beneath its Graeco-Roman appearance, Jerash reflects a blend of Eastern and Western cultures, combining Mediterranean Roman and Arab Orient traditions in its architecture, religion, and languages. Today, the modern city of Jerash lies just east of the ruins, sharing a city wall, and it sees far fewer tourists compared to Petra and Wadi Rum. It’s located about 40 kilometers from the Syrian border.