SYRIA 2010

PART 1, General Information
PART 2, BLOG Pictures and Gallery

PART 3, VIDEO CLIP

PART 1, GENERAL INFORMATION (REVISED AFTER OUR VISIT)

Capital city; Damascus
Population; 22 million (2010) 17 million in (2019)
Currency; Syria Pound
Km travelled; 1600
Days in; 27 days
Languages; Arabic

General

In 2010 and early 2011, Syria looked calm from the outside: busy markets, ancient cities, families gathering for long dinners, kids running through old stone streets.But underneath? The country was quietly cracking. One family ruled for decades. Politics were tightly controlled. The security services were everywhere. People learned not to talk about certain things.

Next the violence rapidly escalated and became a full-scale civil war that has left more than 570,000 people dead. More than five million people have fled Syria according to the UN. What began as a peaceful uprising against Syria’s President Bashar al-Assad devastated the country. During our month in Syria many Syrians complained about high unemployment, corruption and lack of freedom of speech. The violence rapidly escalated and the country descended into civil war as hundreds of rebel brigades were formed to battle government forces. Looking at the photo’s we wonder what happened to all those people in our pictures.

2010/2011

Before the war Syria’s share in global exports has been declining since 2001. Unemployment was well above 10%. More than 13% of the people lived below the poverty line. Syria’s main exports include oil, raw cotton, clothing, fruits and grains. Syria is very much dependent on the oil and the agriculture sectors. The oil sector provided about 40% of export earnings. Syria’s main imports were raw materials for industry, vehicles, agricultural equipment, and heavy machinery. Earnings from oil exports were the most important sources of foreign exchange.

TOURIST HIGHLIGHTS
Damascus and Aleppo are among the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Western Asia. Syria was home to some of the best-preserved historical sites in the region, many of which have unfortunately been destroyed in recent years. We were fortunate to witness them before their destruction. In 2010, tourism accounted for 16% of Syria’s economy and had been growing rapidly.

DAMASCUS

We wandered through the Ancient City of Damascus, the fragrant City of Jasmine, and felt history around every corner. In the Old City, winding alleys and ancient gates like Bab Tuma transported us back in time.The bustling souks were alive with color and scent—spices, textiles, and handicrafts tempted us at every turn. And the Umayyad Mosque, with its stunning architecture and serene courtyards, left us in awe.Damascus is truly one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, a living tapestry of cultures. As we left, the scent of jasmine lingered, along with the memory of a city that has stood the test of time.

ALEPPO,

We explore Aleppo, an ancient city in northern Syria and one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities. We wander through its narrow alleys, visit the bustling souk, and marvel at the imposing Citadel, all testaments to its history as a key trading and cultural center shaped by Greeks, Romans, and Ottomans. We admire the old city, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1986.

KRAK DES CHEVALIERS
The Krak des Chevaliers is a Crusader-era fortress dating back to the 10th century and is considered one of the most well-preserved medieval castles in the world. Alongside the Citadel of Saladin, it stands as one of the finest examples of Crusader architecture, showcasing the military ingenuity and defensive design of the era. Its massive walls, strategic location, and complex fortifications highlight the architectural and historical significance of the Crusader period in the Levant.

PALMYRA

We explored Palmyra, an ancient city dating back to around 2000 BCE. Later a Roman colony, we see it as a vital oasis in the western Syrian desert. We marvel at its rich culture, grand temples, and its role as a hub connecting distant lands through trade.

BOSRA
The ancient city of Bosra is a remarkable Roman city located in southern Syria. It is renowned for its Roman theatre, considered one of the best-preserved in the world. In addition to the theatre, Bosra contains numerous remains of its rich past, including Roman baths, colonnades, and the remnants of ancient houses and temples, offering a vivid glimpse into the city’s historical and architectural significance.

THE DEAD CITIES OF NORTHERN SYRIA

We explore the Dead Cities, a group of 700 abandoned villages in northwest Syria, located between Aleppo and Idlib. Most of these villages, which date from the 1st to the 7th centuries, were abandoned between the 8th and 10th centuries. In these settlements, we can see the well-preserved architectural remains of temples, cisterns, bathhouses, and many ancient churches.

CLIMATE
Damascus
Summer 15 degrees at night to 40 degrees during the day
Winter 0 degrees at night to 20 degrees during the day
Rainfall minimal

Aleppo
Summer 20 degrees at night to 38 degrees during the day
Winter 2 degrees at night to 18 degrees during the day
Rainfall minimal wettest months Dec to March

Palmyra
Summer 16 degrees at night to 40 degrees during the day
Winter 3 degrees at night to 20 degrees during the day
Rainfall Minimal

Raqqa
Summer 25 degrees at night to 48 degrees during the day
Winter 3 degrees at night to 20 degrees during the day
Rainfall minimal

Latakia
Summer 20 degrees at night to 30 degrees during the day
Winter 8 degrees at night to 20 during the day
Rainfall 620mm of rain between Nov and march, rest of the year minimal

PART 2, BLOG PICTURES AND GALLERY

BORDER to DAMASCUS

Crossing the border was a study in contrasts. Jordan’s formalities were fast and efficient, while Syria was chaotic and disorganized. Three hours later, we had our visas and Carnet stamped, insurance arranged, diesel tax paid (100 USD for a week), and passports stamped—everything in triplicate. We always wonder what happens to all that paperwork once it disappears into the bureaucracy.

We traveled one hundred kilometers to Damascus, winding through a fertile agricultural region that stretched as far as the eye could see. Arriving in the city, the traffic immediately reminded us of Dar Es Salaam, Lusaka, and Kampala—chaotic, crowded, and utterly unpredictable. The Syrian border crossing was no different: a swirl of police and army personnel, leaving us unsure of what, exactly, they were doing.

Heading north along the Golan Heights, a UN-controlled area, we were struck by the stark contrast between the tense surroundings and the quiet beauty of the landscape. By 5 pm, darkness had already fallen, and we were reminded that we were now closer to Europe than we had been for months.

Just a few minutes later, we were warmly welcomed by our friend, the Imam, as we arrived at the garden camp of the Syrian family who run the New Kaboun overlander campsite on the outskirts of Damascus. The night was chilly, and we spent it inside the truck, a routine that now seemed likely to become the norm on our journey.

The sun rose early, and by 10 am the temperature had climbed to a comfortable 22 degrees. By midday, it reached 24 degrees—the coolest day we had experienced in months, a gentle reminder of the shift in climate as we moved north.

We explored Damascus, starting in the Old City, which is still partly walled and full of history. We entered through Souq Al Hamidiyya, a lively market where everything seems to be for sale, which led us to the Umayyad Mosque. This mosque is one of Islam’s most important sites and Syria’s most significant religious building, ranking third after Mecca and Medina. Non-Muslims and women can visit, so we went inside—Clary wore a hooded cloak, we removed our shoes, and were even allowed to take photos.

After leaving the Umayyad Mosque, we enjoyed coffee in a 200-year-old coffee house. In fact, the area behind the Mosque is full of charming coffee houses. We couldn’t resist pausing by the beautiful lunch shops, all wafting the irresistible aroma of perfectly cooked meat. Inevitably, we ended up eating far too much. By around 3 pm, feeling pleasantly tired, we decided to call it a day and took a taxi back to the campground.

Overall, Damascus is a stunning city, with a sophisticated central business district and a vibrant nightlife. The Old City retains its historic charm, and alongside the Souq, it features some truly beautiful old houses. For us, Damascus is a must-see, and even though we usually avoid large cities, this one was not to be missed. Unfortunately, the Citadel was closed, so we didn’t get the chance to visit.

DAMASCUS TO PALMYRA

Damascus to Palmyra

Upon reaching the Lebanese border, we received disappointing news: we would not be allowed to enter. The reason given was that foreign vehicles powered by diesel are prohibited. Rather than contesting the refusal—especially since we had enough diesel to cross Lebanon without refueling—we opted to change course. Turning east, we headed toward the Iraqi border and set our sights on visiting Palmyra.

We set out from Damascus on a journey across more than 200 kilometres of desert, with nothing but sand and stones stretching out before us. At the heart of the Cham Desert, not far from the Iraqi border, lies Palmyra—Syria’s prime attraction and one of the world’s greatest historical sites. As we wander through the ruins of this remarkable 2nd-century city, which cover some 50 hectares, we can almost feel the echoes of ancient life surrounding us.

We left Damascus on a smooth road and reached Palmyra in just three hours. Stepping into the city, we were immediately struck by why it’s called the city of a thousand columns. Walking along the Great Colonnade, which stretches over a kilometer, we felt the rhythm of the ancient city and got a clear sense of its grand layout. On the eastern slopes, we explored the ancient tombs, silent witnesses to the lives of those who walked these streets long before us. Every corner of Palmyra whispered stories of history, trade, and timeless beauty.

Palmyra is a remarkable site in the center of the Syrian Desert. This city became a vital stopping point for caravans traveling the shortest route from the Arab Gulf to the Mediterranean, as well as those following the Silk Route and crossing the Tigris at Babylon. Palmyra dates back to the 19th century BCE. At night, the entire complex is illuminated, and with no fences, we were free to wander anywhere. Sitting in front of the truck tonight, the view was simply breathtaking. An Amazing place and 4 days was not enough.

We met up with Klaus Schier and Sonja Nertinger, the authors of overland travel books and documentaries, who are also traveling overland around the world. They are best known for their journeys from Alaska to South America and from Europe to India. Over the past 16 years, they have traveled overland through more than 60 countries. It was an amazing place, but four days were not enough. Unfortunately, the last night was rough—I spent most of the time on the toilet. I’m not sure what it was, but it lasted the entire following day.

We ventured out early in the morning, the air biting at just 1°C, to capture the sunrise over the ancient ruins of Palmyra. The sky slowly ignited with soft hues of pink and gold, but the icy wind swept across the site, turning even a brief walk into a test of endurance.

I stayed wrapped in blankets, too unwell to join the excursion. Looking back, considering our journey through the warmer climes of South Africa and Lesotho, this was undoubtedly our coldest night yet. Europe feels almost within reach now, and yet the chill here is something else entirely. We’ve even been warned that snow may greet us when we reach Cappadocia in Turkey—a thought both thrilling and daunting.

After exploring Palmyra that morning, the biting wind made lingering impossible. Every step was a reminder of the cold, and with my health waning, leaving felt not only wise but necessary. Despite the discomfort, there was a strange magic in witnessing the desert awaken, its ruins bathed in morning light, even as the cold reminded us that travel often demands endurance alongside wonder.

PALMYRA TO ALEPPO

Our journey north takes us from the oasis town of Palmyra along the desert fringes to Aleppo. Our first stop is Homs, a city in western Syria, south of Aleppo. It is the third-largest city in the country. The major tourist attraction in the area is the Krak des Chevaliers, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most well-preserved medieval castles in the world, located 45 kilometers from Homs. Aleppo will be our final port of call in Syria.

We arrived in Aleppo, Syria’s second-largest city, and immediately felt its pulse as a crossroads of history and trade. The city has been a hub between Asia and the Mediterranean since Roman times, and everywhere we looked, that legacy was alive. We wandered through the winding covered souqs, their narrow lanes buzzing with merchants, spices, textiles, and the aroma of freshly baked bread. The Citadel, rising majestically on a hill, told stories of centuries of battles, rulers, and resilience. Inside the museum and caravanserais, we glimpsed the echoes of traders and travelers who had passed through these streets for hundreds of years.

Later, we learned about a Belgian woman, married to a Syrian, who had turned her backyard about 25 km west of Aleppo into a cozy campsite—our stop for the night. It’s strange how quickly we’ve grown used to the unusual sights here: men with guns, Toyotas mounted with machine guns, and civilians guarding roadblocks. Yet, amid this, Aleppo’s rich history, vibrant markets, and enduring spirit make it an unforgettable place for travelers like us.

Early in the afternoon, we arrived at Salaam Campground. I was still feeling unwell, so I decided to take a nap. By 5 p.m., it seemed the worst had passed, and I was starting to feel a little better. We took a taxi bus to Aleppo, about 25 km away—a 20-minute drive. The round trip for two people cost just 0.56 AUD. Our plan was to do some shopping at the markets and visit the Aleppo Citadel and the Mosque.

Also known as Halab, Aleppo is Syria’s largest city after Damascus, with around 30% of its population being Christian. The Souq of Aleppo is world-famous, stretching over 12 km and holding the title of the largest market in the Orient. It’s truly remarkable, with so much to see and explore. Naturally, we spent a lot of time wandering through it.

ALEPPO TO THE BORDER

After leaving Aleppo, it was just a short 30-minute drive to the Syrian-Turkish border. The northern Syrian Bab al Hawa crossing was clogged with Turkish trucks, but we managed to get through the red tape much faster. Compared to when we entered Syria via Jordan, this crossing seemed far better organized.However, the bureaucracy was still frustrating. No one would sign our Carnet until we paid an additional $50 USD, plus another $10 USD for the car. What was most unbelievable was that they refused to accept their own currency and insisted on US dollars—the very currency their country publicly dislikes.

In total, entering Syria cost us $223 USD, not including diesel tax, insurance, and visas. Leaving Syria added another $60 USD, though we were able to negotiate that down a bit.Crossing into Turkey was a stark contrast. Everything was straightforward: we arranged visas, got our passports stamped, registered our vehicle details, and we were on our way. The simplicity and efficiency of the Turkish side was a refreshing change after the hurdles we faced in Syria.

SYRIA after we left,

Little did we know that weeks after we left the violence rapidly escalated and became a full-scale civil war that has left more than 450,000 people dead. More than five million people have fled Syria according to the UN. What began as a peaceful uprising against Syria’s President Bashar al-Assad six years ago, devastated the country. During our month in Syria many Syrians complained about high unemployment, corruption and lack of freedom of speech. The violence rapidly escalated and the country descended into civil war as hundreds of rebel brigades were formed to battle government forces. Looking at the photo’s we wonder what happened to all those people in our pictures. Syria is now involved in one of the worst civil wars in modern times. A fight is between Syrian Government forces, Islamic rebel forces and ISIS fighters. Over 4 million Syrians have now left Syria. Now in it seventh year it looks like ISIS have lost all strategic area’s in Syria, but not without doing tremendous damage to areas such as ancient Palmyra, killing many including the director of the Palmyra museum. (beheaded) The other 2 cities which became major battle grounds away from Damascus, were Aleppo and Homs. Aleppo was once Syria’s largest city, with a population of about 2.3 million. It was also the country’s industrial and financial centre. The old city is a UNESCO World Heritage site and was famous for its 13th Century citadel, 12th Century Great mosque and huge covered markets, or souks. Homs, an ancient city where Christians and Muslims used to live in peace, and where neighbours now are killing each other. And many families fell apart. From all accounts Krak des Chevaliers has received little damage from the outside (except bullet holes) and fire damaged black pillars, and the limestone blocks have been replaced or put back in position. However inside it appears lots of damage is done including a lot of looting.