CENTRAL CANADA

1. General Information

2. Blogs

A. QUEBEC

B. ONTARIO

C. MANITOBA

D. SASKATCHEWAN

3. Video Clips

A. QUEBEC

B. ONTARIO

C. MANITOBA

D. SASKATCHEWAN

 

1. GENERAL INFORMATION

Central Canada mainly includes Ontario and Quebec, Canada’s two largest and most populous provinces. Although sometimes Manitoba and Saskatchewan—typically grouped with Alberta as the Prairie Provinces—are included in our blogs of Central Canada, Ontario and Quebec remain its core. Geographically, Quebec and Ontario are not at the literal centre of the country; they actually overlap with Eastern Canada. However, due to their large populations and economic influence, they have traditionally held significant political power in the country. This dominance has occasionally led to resentment from other regions.

A visit to Canada also means travelling through Territories and through communities who are signatories to Treaties 1 to 11.

TREATIES

The Numbered Treaties in Canada are a series of 11 agreements signed between the Canadian government and various First Nations between 1871 and 1921. They are called “numbered” because they are officially numbered from Treaty 1 to Treaty 11. These treaties cover large areas of land, mostly in what is now Ontario, the Prairies, northern British Columbia, and parts of the Northwest Territories.

The Numbered Treaties were meant to manage the relationship between Indigenous peoples and the growing Canadian state, primarily involving land use and mutual responsibilities. While they remain foundational to Canada’s legal and political framework, their interpretation and implementation remain controversial and central to Indigenous–government relations today.

It includes

1. Land Sharing:
   • First Nations agreed to share their land with settlers in exchange for certain promises.
   • In many cases, the Crown viewed this as land surrender, but many First Nations understood it more as peaceful coexistence and sharing.
2. Government Promises:
   In return for access to the land, the government promised:
   • Reserves (land specifically for First Nations)
   • Annual payments (treaty money)
   • Hunting and fishing rights
   • Tools, farming supplies, and livestock
   • schools and teachers)
   • Healthcare and famine relief
3. Mutual Agreements or Misunderstandings?
   • Many First Nations leaders entered the treaties in good faith, seeking to protect their communities and way of life as newcomers arrived.
   • However, different worldviews (oral vs. written traditions, communal vs. individual land ownership) meant that the intentions and interpretations of the treaties differed.
   • Some promises made orally were not included in the written texts, leading to ongoing disputes.

As of 2025:

• The Numbered Treaties are still legally binding agreements under Section 35 of the Canadian Constitution (1982).
• They continue to shape discussions around Indigenous rights, land claims, and reconciliation.
• First Nations continue to seek the full implementation of these treaties, including respect for the spirit and intent, not just the written words.

 The geographic centre of Canada lies just east of Winnipeg, Manitoba, along the Trans-Canada Highway. Much of northern Quebec and Ontario, including the Hudson Bay Lowlands, is sparsely populated and swampy.

Quebec, nearly three times the size of France, holds about 12% of its surface in freshwater, making up 3% of the world’s renewable supply. It has over 500,000 lakes and 4,500 rivers, draining into both the Atlantic and Arctic Oceans.

Together, Ontario and Quebec house 62% of Canada’s population, highlighting their major demographic and political role.

Quebec

 

Crossing from Labrador into Quebec felt like entering a different country. Just 20 km past the border, French replaced English completely. Quebec is often called “a nation within a nation” because language is a strong symbol of identity here. Unlike the rest of Canada, signs are only in French, reflecting deep cultural pride and ongoing political debates about Quebec’s possible independence. Quebec has had a major influence on the country’s history, politics, economy, and culture. But the relationship between Quebec and the “Rest of Canada” (or ROC, as it’s often called) has been complicated.

Most people live along the St. Lawrence River, where cities like Montreal and Quebec City are cultural and economic centers. Beyond the cities, Quebec is rich in natural beauty, with lakes and rivers covering 12% of its land. Quebec holds one of the largest reserves of freshwater on the planet.

Ontario

Ontario is Canada’s most populous province, home to nearly 40% of the country’s population. It includes Ottawa, the nation’s capital, and Toronto, Ontario’s capital and Canada’s largest city. It borders Manitoba, Quebec, and the U.S. states of Minnesota, Michigan, Ohio, Pennsylvania, and New York.

English is the official language, with 98% proficiency. After Quebec made French official in 1976, many English speakers moved to Ontario, boosting its economy. Today, Ontario leads Canada in manufacturing, accounting for over half the country’s shipments, with strong trade ties to Michigan. Its natural resources and transport access support industries like mining, forestry, and agriculture. The Niagara Peninsula is known for fruit and wine, while tobacco grows near Lake Erie.

Manitoba

Manitoba, Canada’s fifth most populous province with about 1.35 million people, features diverse landscapes including Arctic tundra, forests, prairies, and many freshwater lakes. It borders Ontario, Saskatchewan, Nunavut, and the U.S., with Winnipeg as its capital. Known for over 110,000 lakes covering 15% of its area, Manitoba has strong agriculture in the south, producing cattle, grains, sunflowers, dry beans, and potatoes. The northern town of Churchill is famous for polar bear and beluga whale watching and hosts Canada’s only Arctic deep-water seaport.

Saskatchewan

Saskatchewan, a central Canadian province known as the Prairie Province, had a 2025 population of 1.25 million. It borders Alberta, Northwest Territories, Manitoba, Nunavut, and the U.S. Saskatchewan is one of two landlocked provinces in Canada.

About 10% of its area is freshwater, with most people living in the southern prairies. Half the population lives in Saskatoon and Regina. The economy relies on agriculture, mining, and energy. Agriculture’s share of GDP has dropped to 9%, but Saskatchewan leads in canola, mustard seed, potash, and uranium exports. Forestry is important in the north, while oil and gas also support the economy.

The province experiences frequent thunderstorms and is among Canada’s most tornado-prone areas, with 15 to 18 tornadoes annually.

2. BLOGS

Quebec 

Quebec is Canada’s largest province by area and is located in Central Canada. With a population of around 9.5 million, it shares borders with Ontario, Newfoundland and Labrador, New Brunswick, Nunavut, and the United States. Originally a French colony from 1534 to 1763, Quebec was taken over by the British after the Seven Years’ War. Yet French remained dominant in daily life. Most of Quebec is sparsely populated. The majority of the population lives along the St. Lawrence River, which runs through the province’s southeast. Quebec’s major cities, Montreal and Quebec City, are cultural and economic hubs. While the province is far flatter than mountainous British Columbia or Alberta, its Laurentian Mountains in the south are a popular destination for skiing in eastern Canada.

Quebec is also rich in natural beauty. It holds one of the world’s largest reserves of freshwater, with 12% of its surface covered by lakes and rivers — over 4,500 of which drain into the Atlantic through the Gulf of St. Lawrence or the Arctic Ocean. While much of northern Quebec is an uninhabited arctic wilderness filled with moose, caribou, and polar bears, the central region is home to dense boreal forests.

French Influence

Leaving Labrador, we entered Quebec — and just 20 kilometers across the border, we were already struggling to find someone who spoke English. It really felt like stepping into another country. As someone told me, “Quebec is a nation within a nation.” And that’s exactly how it felt.

In 1974, Quebec declared French its sole official language — the only province in Canada to do so. The majority of the population are French-Canadians, descendants of 17th-century French settlers who have resisted centuries of pressure to assimilate into Anglo-Canadian society. That tradition of resistance continues today. Modern Quebec is a vibrant, fascinating place, and its people remain as determined as ever to preserve their unique culture and values. But the relationship between Quebec and the rest of Canada — often referred to as the “ROC” (Rest of Canada) — hasn’t always been easy. Language has long been a flashpoint of tension, and for decades, the question of separatism — whether Quebec should become an independent country — has been one of Canada’s most contentious political issues. As Canada’s second-most populous province, Quebec has had an enormous influence on the country’s history, politics, economy, and culture. Interestingly, across Canada, signs are printed in both English and French — but in Quebec, they’re only in French. Imagine the cost of printing all product packaging in two languages for the sake of one province!

The majority of Quebecers — around 94% — speak only French. Since the 1970s, the provincial government has passed laws restricting the use of English in education, business, and especially on public signs and advertisements. These efforts to preserve the French language have been both praised and criticized, but they remain central to Quebec’s sense of identity.

Quebec City

Quebec City, the capital of the Canadian province of Quebec, has a population of around 600,000 and is the second-largest city in the province after Montreal. Founded in 1608 by the French explorer Samuel de Champlain, Quebec City is one of the oldest European settlements in Canada—and possibly in all of North America.

The city is renowned for Old Quebec, a historic district whose fortified walls are the only remaining walled city north of Mexico. In recognition of its historical and cultural significance, Old Quebec was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. Quebec City hosts the famous Carnaval de Québec, one of the world’s largest and most celebrated winter festivals. The carnival features a wide range of outdoor activities, including ice skating, dog sledding, ice sculpting, and tobogganing.

Located on the north bank of the Saint Lawrence River, Quebec City experiences four distinct seasons. Summers are warm and occasionally hot, with average highs between 22°C and 25°C. Winters are cold, windy, and snowy, with average high temperatures ranging from −5°C to −8°C. Snow typically covers the ground from late November until mid-April.

Montreal

Montreal is the largest city in Quebec and the second-largest city in Canada, with a population of approximately 1.8 million. Founded in 1642 as Ville-Marie or the City of Mary, Montreal is located on the Island of Montreal. It lies 196 km east of the national capital, Ottawa, and 258 km southwest of the provincial capital, Quebec City. The city is known for its strong French heritage—about 90% of the population consider themselves fluent in French, and around 56% are bilingual in French and English.

Montreal has hosted numerous major international events, Including the 1976 Summer Olympic Games The Formula One Canadian Grand Prix, The Montreal International Jazz, The Just for Laughs Festival (the world’s largest comedy festival) It is also home to the Montreal Canadiens, one of the most storied franchises in the National Hockey League (NHL), with 24 Stanley Cup championships—the most in league history.

Summers are typically warm to hot and humid, with daily maximum temperatures averaging between 26°C and 27°C. Winters are cold, snowy, and often windy, with average daily temperatures ranging from −10.5°C to −9°C. Snow usually covers the ground from mid-December until the end of March.

MORE DETAILED INFORMATION

Trouble 

Leaving Labrador, Clary noticed a strong smell and intense heat coming from our scooter garage. When we checked the Victron gauge, it confirmed our fear: the batteries were overheating—PFFFFFF. We were incredibly lucky to catch this in time. It was a major crisis, but thankfully, the local mining mechanics in Fermont stepped in to help. They took one look and saw that two of our batteries had already burst open, and the others were bulging badly. Our battery bank was on the verge of exploding. With limited options and stock available at the mine site, we replaced them with what could fit in the battery compartment: five 100Ah and one 90Ah deep-cycle batteries.

While this meant our storage capacity dropped significantly, at least we were back on the road. However, we learned that the 24V to 12V transformer was malfunctioning. Until we could fix it, we had to turn off the house batteries while driving to prevent further damage. Once we made it to Quebec City—after three frustrating visits to various so-called Victron dealers—we finally found a knowledgeable and well-stocked Victron technician. He installed a new transformer and helped get things stable, though we had to settle for just 590Ah, down from our original 900Ah system, and we were no longer using AGM batteries. He also advised us to reduce the charging current to 30 amps, down from the 85 amps we’d been running for the past 15 years without issue. It was a hard adjustment, but after what we went through, we weren’t about to argue.

Fermont, population 2800

Crossing into Quebec, This is where the Trans-Labrador Highway becomes Quebec Route 389. This is the longest secondary road in Quebec, and it travels through some of the province’s most remote and rugged terrain. The road serves isolated mining communities and traverses vast unorganized territories like Rivière-aux-Outardes and Rivière-Mouchalagane.

Located just 23 km west of the Labrador border, Fermont is a remote mining town in Quebec founded in the early 1970s to develop the rich iron ore deposits at Mont Wright, about 25 km west of the town. The name “Fermont” is a contraction of “Fer Mont”—French for Iron Mountain. Fermont is especially known for its unique architectural feature: a 1.3-kilometre-long, 50-metre-high structure that houses apartments, shops, restaurants, a school, a hotel, and even a swimming pool. Designed as a windbreak against the brutal subarctic climate, it allows residents to live and work indoors for much of the seven-month-long winter.

Jean-Fortin Park felt like being back home with the huge Caterpillar 789 mining production truck. Fermont looks like a typical Australian mining town (except for the scenery (outback vs Arctic) The nearby ArcelorMittal Mont-Wright mine is a massive, 40 km² open-pit site operating 24/7 with a fleet of over 200 vehicles, including 13 gigantic 400-ton trucks—larger than Boeing 747s and as powerful as 33 cars each. It’s a surreal, industrial hub where humans seem tiny against the scale of machines and operations.

Surrounded by rounded hills, lakes, peat bogs, and wetlands, Fermont’s landscape contrasts dramatically with the typical Australian outback mining towns—though the industrial feel is similar. Its subarctic climate brings long, harsh winters, and heavy snowfall averaging 2.9 metres, with snow depth peaking around 85 cm. Fermont’s isolated and self-contained life was featured in the crime drama series La Faille (2019), highlighting its unique setting and social dynamics.

Road Fermont to Manic 5 

Route 389 is a mix of paved and gravel sections, with significant logging and mining truck traffic. There are no major towns along its 565-kilometer stretch. Fuel is scarce: the only refueling point between Fermont and Manic-5 is at Relais-Gabriel. The next fuel stop after that is in Baie-Comeau. Of the total distance, 167 kilometers are gravel, split into two rough sections: 67 km between Mont-Wright and Fire Lake 100 km between Relais-Gabriel and Manic-5 The road is often narrow, and winding, Logging trucks, often traveling fast and empty on their way north, are a constant presence, demanding vigilance from other drivers. there is little mobile phone signal for most of the route

Past Mount Wright, we hit the first stretch of gravel—narrow, twisted, but in surprisingly good condition. The road crossed an active railway nine times in this section. There were warning signals, but no barriers—it was entirely up to us to ensure it was safe to cross. We took it slow and stayed alert.

As we continued toward the ghost towns of Fire Lake and Gagnon, the sense of isolation grew. Gagnon was closed and dismantled in 1985 by the mining company that owned it. Today, nothing remains but a pair of massive silos, some curb lines, and a centre island—an eerie reminder of what once stood here. We stopped at a pullout hoping to find something of interest, but there really wasn’t much left.

The sharp corners and steep climbs and descents made for demanding driving. We often saw signs warning of 25 km/h limits, accompanied by red directional arrows. These weren’t just suggestions—those corners were tight, and braking was essential. We passed frost-heaved sections that had been patched, but still posed a hazard. One American tourist towing a massive RV with a V8 barreled past us in a hurry—he lost control after hitting a frost heave, and it was nearly a disaster. A sobering reminder: this road doesn’t forgive carelessness.

After Relais Gabriel, we entered the second stretch of unpaved road. The gravel was light, evenly spread, and in good shape. With experience on gravel, we were able to cruise between 80 and 90 km/h, but only with constant vigilance. We encountered moderate wash boarding in places and stayed alert for every curve and corner—most were signed, but still required full attention.

The road narrowed again in sections, and we kept an eye out for logging trucks flying northbound, empty and fast. They had the right of way on these tight bends. This route also serves a vital purpose—connecting to a string of massive Hydro-Québec hydroelectric stations: Manic-2, Manic-3, and the enormous Manic-5. Their presence is imposing and awe-inspiring, rising out of the wilderness like monuments to human ambition. Driving Route 389 wasn’t just travel—it was an experience of Quebec’s raw, industrial north, surrounded by vast wilderness, hidden history, and rugged solitude.

MANIC 5 

Manic 5 “Manic” is an abbreviation of “Manicouagan,” which refers to the site where an asteroid fell 214 million years ago, digging the immense crater that became the Manicouagan reservoir. Also called the “eye of Quebec,” it has a diameter of approximately 100 kilometers. Dominating the Manicouagan Valley since 1970, the Daniel-Johnson Dam stands as an emblem of Quebec engineering. With its 13 arches and 14 buttresses, it is the largest arch and buttress dam in the world. Its construction site and the Manic-5 hydroelectric development have marked the history of electricity in North America.

The dam was constructed between 1959 and 1970 for the purpose of hydroelectric power production and supplies water to Manic-5 and Manic-5-PA. The dam fuels two powerhouses: Manic-5 and Manic-5-PA. The first powerhouse consists of eight Francis turbines, capable of producing up to 1,596 MW of power, and went online in 1970. The second powerhouse, Manic-5-PA (PA stands for puissance additionnelle or additional power), was commissioned in 1989 and consists of four Francis turbines with a total installed capacity of 1,064 MW. Together, they have a combined capacity of 2,660 MW.

The dam is 214 meters tall, 1.3 kilometers long, and contains 2.2 million cubic meters of concrete—making it the largest dam of its type in the world. The amount of concrete used could build a sidewalk connecting the North Pole to the South Pole. Hydro-Québec, which is owned by the provincial government, operates the dam. It’s also a tourist attraction. Hydro-Québec organizes four daily tours of the facility between June 24 and August 31. Since we arrived in May, it was a little too early for us to join a tour.

Manic 5 to Baie Comeau

That night, we stayed at a lookout with an incredible view of the Daniel-Johnson Dam, beautifully lit up against the night sky. Till Baie Comeau was the final stretch of Route 389, between Manic 5 and Baie-Comeau, about 214 kilometers of road.

If you see a warning sign for 25 km/h, usually marked with red directional arrows, be sure to slow down and obey it. The corners here are very tight, with many sharp turns, steep climbs, and descents. This last section also has a lot of logging trucks, which, as I mentioned earlier, can and do drive quite fast. Like we do in Australia with large road trains, we always pull over to let these trucks pass. Remember, we’re tourists enjoying the scenery, while these drivers are working.

Despite many horror stories we read on overlander sites, the Labrador Highway is actually in excellent condition — except for about 200 kilometers of gravel road along Route 389 in Quebec. The rest of the highway is paved and, in fact, better maintained than many roads we’ve driven on in the USA and parts of New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, Nova Scotia, and Newfoundland. Some of the gravel roads in Quebec were even smoother than some pothole-ridden paved roads we encountered in the U.S. and the Canadian Maritimes.

If you do decide to venture off the main highway, you’ll find muddy and challenging tracks, especially when it rains, but most travellers stick to the well-maintained paved highway.

Baie Comeau to Quebec City

We arrived in Baie-Comeau, the largest city we’d seen since leaving St. John’s, Newfoundland, over 3,300 kilometers and two weeks earlier. With a population of just 22,000, it still feels very much like a frontier town. This small port and industrial center owes its existence to hydroelectric power and aluminium production, built up more on paper and promise than grandeur.

Leaving Baie-Comeau, we entered the Côte-Nord region, a vast stretch along the St. Lawrence River that extends 1,250 kilometers from Blanc-Sablon to Tadoussac. We followed this scenic route from Baie-Comeau to Tadoussac, traveling along what’s known as the Whale Route. Here, the waters of the Estuary and Gulf of St. Lawrence are home to thirteen species of whales—including the majestic blue whale—often seen close to shore. In fact, whales can even be spotted from several shoreline vantage points. The area’s world-class whale watching reputation is supported by three renowned research groups based here, some of which offer sea excursions led by scientists.

Tadoussac is a charming town steeped in history. Established in 1600, it was the first French settlement in Canada. While little remains of the original trading post aside from a wooden church, the “Old Chapel” of Tadoussac holds the distinction of being the oldest wooden church building in North America. To continue our journey, we took the ferry from Tadoussac to Sainte-Catherine, crossing the stunning Saguenay Fjord. (free ferry). On both sides of the fjord, whale watching trips are available, with more options in Sainte-Catherine. The Saguenay Fjord itself is a breathtaking 100-kilometer-long inlet, flanked by near-vertical cliffs.

We traveled along the North Shore of the Saint Lawrence River toward Quebec City, stopping overnight by the waterfront. The journey offered more lush forest scenery and wide views of the St. Lawrence, which stretches nearly 70 kilometers wide at this point. To truly experience the region, it’s worth taking detours off the main highway to explore the quaint villages, townships, and rural communities scattered along the way. After Saint Simeon, we turned off onto the old highway to visit Port-au-Persil, a tiny hamlet listed among the most beautiful villages in Quebec. A small white wooden chapel rests beside the water’s edge, surrounded by a handful of wooden houses—a picturesque and peaceful spot. Other charming stops included Baie-Saint-Paul, located on the banks of the Rivière du Gouffre, and the village of Petite Rivière. Just before reaching Quebec City, we visited Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré, a town known for its impressive Basilica and the “Cyclorama of Jerusalem,” a massive circular wall painting completed in 1895. The Basilica, a major Catholic pilgrimage site, is a modern structure completed in 1946 on the site of an earlier baroque church.

While the steep inclines of this route tested our vehicle, we noticed a loss of power—another reason to schedule a service in Quebec City soon.

Quebec City

Quebec City, often simply called “Quebec” by locals, is the province’s capital and second-largest city. Unlike the multicultural buzz of Montreal, Quebec City is distinctly French, preserving a rich heritage that earned it UNESCO World Heritage status in 1985. Its 18th-century fortified walls, stretching about five kilometers, make it the only remaining walled city in North America north of Mexico.

Early on, we realized our French wasn’t quite up to par, but what really surprised us was how little English is spoken here. In a country that prides itself on bilingualism, Quebec City’s signs are almost exclusively in French, and local schools teach primarily in French, emphasizing the city’s strong cultural identity.

 

After sorting out our Victron transformer and getting our truck serviced, we headed to Quebec City and stayed at our first campsite since starting our journey in March. Transit Camp, located just across the river from downtown, offered a perfect base for exploring.

Many travelers don’t realize Quebec City’s fortifications were built over centuries, from 1608 to 1871, first by the French, then the British, and finally Canadian forces. We walked most of the walls, taking in the stunning views of the city inside and the mighty St. Lawrence River beyond. Our route led us to the Citadel, a star-shaped fortress built after the War of 1812. Unfortunately, we missed the Changing of the Guard ceremony and the firing of muskets, but the history was palpable.

We’re not big city people, but Quebec City felt like a European gem — steeped in history and vibrant with culture. Wandering its cobblestone streets, we soaked up centuries-old landmarks and enjoyed the lively mix of art, music, shopping, and fine dining. The city is split into Upper Town, perched on a cliff, and Lower Town, each packed with impressive historic sites. Old Quebec isn’t just one attraction but a treasure trove of them, all nestled in a compact, charming area.

The Petit Champlain district, one of Canada’s oldest neighborhoods, felt like stepping into another time. Narrow cobblestone streets lined with boutiques, bistros, and cafés invited us to indulge, even if it meant breaking my strict diet for local treats like ice cream and cakes. Place Royale, the city’s founding spot by Samuel de Champlain in 1608, is a small square with big history, featuring Canada’s oldest stone church and a massive mural illustrating 400 years of Quebec’s story.

Quebec City’s European charm was undeniable. Strolling through the Quartier du Petit Champlain, we felt transported back in time. The walls and Citadel reminded us of the city’s strategic importance, Perched high on Cap Diamant, the Quebec City Citadel is a breathtaking fortress and a UNESCO World Heritage site that highlights Canada’s rich military heritage. And 17th-century military engineering. This historic landmark offers stunning views of the St. Lawrence River alongside remarkable 17th-century military architecture. Known as La Citadelle, it stands as a prime example of classic fortress design and provides spectacular panoramas of Quebec City and its surrounding landscapes, making it one of the city’s top attractions.

As the weather worsened, we cancelled plans to visit Montmorency Falls, just minutes from the city. At 80 meters tall—one and a half times higher than Niagara Falls—it’s a spectacular sight, with a gondola ride that promises stunning views. Nearby, Île d’Orléans, with its six villages and farming traditions, offers a taste of rural Quebec life and great views of the falls.

Other highlights included the Plains of Abraham, Quebec City’s central park and festival venue that has hosted The Rolling Stones and Lady Gaga, among others. The Parliament Building, beautifully illuminated at night, and the Fontaine de Tourny in front of it, stood as elegant symbols of the city’s rich heritage. The iconic Château Frontenac hotel, with over 600 rooms and a blend of historic charm and modern luxury, was a treat—especially as Accor Plus members, we were made to feel like royalty.

Though we’re not city folks, Quebec City captured our hearts. Along with Saint Petersburg, it’s one of the few large cities we truly enjoyed. Its unique mix of history, culture, and stunning architecture, all set against the backdrop of the St. Lawrence River, makes it a place we’ll remember fondly, for its vibrant streets, cobblestone pathways, and charming European ambiance..

Trans-Canada Highway

We are now back on the Trans-Canada Highway (TCH), or in French, Route Transcanadienne (T-CAN)—a transcontinental federal–provincial highway system that stretches through all ten provinces of Canada, from the Atlantic Ocean on the East Coast to the Pacific Ocean on the West Coast. Depending on who you ask, the highway is considered to start either in St. John’s, Newfoundland and Labrador, or in Victoria, British Columbia, on Vancouver Island. The main route spans approximately 7,476 km across the country, making it one of the longest national highways in the world.

Though officially the TCH is a network with several parallel routes across the country, the term “Trans-Canada Highway” often refers to the primary route, which is designated as Highway 1 in most provinces. However, the designation varies: Sofar we driven In New Brunswick, where it includes Highways 2 and 40, On Prince Edward island where it includes highway 1 In Nova Scotia, it includes Highways 104 and 105, In Newfoundland and Labrador, it is Highway 1, and now in Quebec, it is Highway 2 the TCH network is strictly a transcontinental system, and does not enter any of Canada’s three northern territories or run to the United States Border.

Montreal

About half of Quebec’s eight million residents live in Montreal, Canada’s second-largest city after Toronto. A modern, stylish, and cosmopolitan hub, Montreal is home to some of the province’s—and indeed the country’s—most celebrated cultural attractions, including the renowned Montreal Jazz Festival and the Just For Laughs comedy extravaganza. Despite its cosmopolitan nature, only about 15% of Montrealers speak English as their first language, making it a truly bilingual city.

One of the most breathtaking sights in Old Montréal is the spectacular interior of the Notre-Dame Basilica. Located on Place d’Armes, it is the city’s oldest Catholic parish church, founded in 1656. This minor basilica, designated by Pope John Paul II in 1982 and declared a National Historic Site of Canada in 1989, has hosted many significant events—state funerals such as that of former Prime Minister Pierre-Elliott Trudeau, notable weddings like Celine Dion’s, and unforgettable performances by artists including Luciano Pavarotti.

The basilica’s highlights include a magnificent 7,000-pipe Casavant organ and stunning stained-glass windows that narrate Montreal’s rich history. The interior is considered one of the most dramatic in the world, a masterpiece of Gothic Revival architecture. Deep blue vaults adorned with golden stars, vibrant hues of blue, azure, red, purple, silver, and gold, intricate wooden carvings, and religious statues create an awe-inspiring sanctuary. While we admired the impressive twin towers soaring 69 meters high, our timed entry prevented us from exploring inside that day unless we were willing to wait until the following morning.

Old Montréal is best discovered on foot. We enjoyed wandering around the Champ de Mars Metro Station area, taking in City Hall, Place Jacques-Cartier, Rue St. Paul, Bonsecours Market, and Rue Notre-Dame. Horse-drawn carriages clip-clopped along cobblestone streets, passing by historic landmarks like the Monumental—a beautifully restored heritage building housing art, design, and craft stores. Sidewalk cafés overlooking the St. Lawrence River offered perfect spots to mingle with locals, while summer street performers enlivened Place Jacques-Cartier. The area is popular for shopping, despite some kitschy souvenir shops, and after dark, numerous bars and clubs bring Vieux-Montréal to life. Rue Saint-Paul, Montreal’s oldest street dating back to 1672, is now lined with a variety of shops and restaurants. Its pedestrian-only sections are bustling with tourists during the day, making it a vibrant hub of activity.

Parc du Mont-Royal, a 230-meter high hill that gave Montreal its name, is one of the city’s largest green spaces. From the Chalet du Mont-Royal, visitors can enjoy breathtaking views of the park and city throughout the year. Nearby, St. Joseph’s Oratory—Canada’s largest shrine dedicated to its patron saint—offers stunning panoramic views over Montreal, making it a must-see even for non-religious visitors.

Another highlight is the Montreal Botanical Garden, one of the largest and most impressive in the world. Covering over 185 acres, it boasts a diverse collection of more than 20,000 plant species, along with the Insectarium and a tropical Greenhouse.

 

The Vieux-Port de Montréal stretches along the St. Lawrence River for two kilometers and attracts around six million visitors annually. It features Canada’s largest Ferris wheel and a historic clock tower, both offering spectacular views. The waterfront area also offers exciting outdoor activities like zip-lining, climbing courses, and access to a life-size replica of an 18th-century pirate ship. During our visit, Cirque du Soleil launched a new show at Jacques Cartier Quay, adding to the vibrant atmosphere.

The Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, established in 1860, is one of Canada’s oldest and largest art museums. The city is also well known for its abundance of 18th-century architecture, world-class restaurants, nightlife, museums, and art galleries.

 

For us, one day in Montreal was enough, and we eventually crossed the river back to our campsite—our heads full of memories from this captivating city.

Parc National de la Jacques-Cartier

Parc National de la Jacques-Cartier spans an impressive 670 square kilometers, offering a captivating blend of rugged wilderness and rich wildlife. The park’s dramatic landscapes are shaped by the winding Jacques-Cartier River, deep valleys, and dense forests, creating a stunning natural backdrop. A true haven if you like the outdoors, the park provides breathtaking panoramic views of the valley below. In winter, it transforms into a snowy wonderland, perfect for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. Wildlife lovers will appreciate the opportunity to spot moose, black bears, and a variety of bird species.

B. ONTARIO

Ontario: Canada’s Most Populous Province

Ontario is the southernmost province of Canada, located in Central Canada. It is the most populous province, home to nearly 40% of the country’s population. Ontario is the second-largest province by area, after Quebec. It houses Canada’s capital city, Ottawa, and the nation’s most populous city and economic hub, Toronto.

Ontario is bordered by Manitoba to the west and Quebec to the east and northeast. To the south, it shares a 2,700 km border with the United States, adjoining the states of Minnesota, Michigan, Ohio, Pennsylvania, and New York.

Northern Ontario is subdivided into two regions: Northwestern Ontario and Northeastern Ontario. The Hudson Bay Lowlands, in the far north and northeast, are virtually unpopulated, characterized by swampy and sparsely forested terrain.

The official language of Ontario is English, with approximately 97.2% of residents proficient in the language. Following the 1976 Quebec elections, when the Parti Québécois came to power and French became the official language, many English-speaking residents and businesses relocated from Quebec to Ontario. This migration contributed to Toronto surpassing Montreal as Canada’s largest city and economic centre. Additionally, economic challenges in the Maritime provinces during the 20th century led to significant population shifts to Ontario.

The majority of Ontarians are of European descent, including large Scottish, Irish, and Italian communities. Less than 5% of the population is French Ontarian. In recent decades, Ontario has also seen increased immigration from Asia, the Caribbean, and Africa.

Ontario benefits from abundant natural resources and excellent transportation links to the North American heartland and the Great Lakes. These advantages have made manufacturing the province’s principal industry. Its largest trading partner is the U.S. state of Michigan. The Saint Lawrence Seaway, which runs through much of southern Ontario and connects to the Atlantic Ocean, is a key waterway for cargo transport, especially for iron ore and grain.

Tourism is a major contributor to Central Ontario’s economy, particularly during the summer months, thanks to the region’s many freshwater lakes and accessible wilderness near major urban centres. In the colder seasons, activities such as hunting, skiing, and snowmobiling become popular. Tours for international visitors are organized year-round, drawing millions of tourists from Europe, the U.S., and other parts of the world.

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Ottawa: Canada’s Capital, population 1.5 Million

Ottawa, located in southern Ontario, is Canada’s capital city. While about 95% of residents speak English, approximately 40% are bilingual in English and French. As the political heart of the country, Ottawa is home to the federal government, including Parliament Hill, the Supreme Court, and the Prime Minister’s Office.

 

Situated on the Ottawa River and bordering Quebec, Ottawa is adjacent to its twin city, Gatineau. The cityscape is defined by landmarks such as the historic Rideau Canal, Lower Town, and the iconic Peace Tower on Parliament Hill. Other notable sites include the National War Memorial, National Holocaust Monument, Canadian Museum of History, National Gallery of Canada, and the Canadian War Museum.

Ottawa is known for its vibrant festival scene, hosting major national celebrations such as Canada Day (July 1), Winterlude (February), and the Canadian Tulip Festival (May), events that draw international attention and showcase the city’s dynamic cultural life.

 

TORONTO

One of Toronto’s most iconic landmarks is Yonge-Dundas Square—the city’s vibrant answer to New York’s Times Square. This bustling intersection pulses with massive digital billboards, brilliant lights, and non-stop activity, making it a true hub of urban energy.

Downtown Toronto is a mosaic of distinct neighbourhoods, each reflecting the city’s rich multicultural heritage. Areas like Little Italy, Greektown, Little Portugal, and Chinatown proudly celebrate their cultural roots through cuisine, festivals, and everyday community life. The eclectic Kensington Market offers a bohemian twist, with its tangle of independent shops, vintage boutiques, and global eateries.

On the other side of the city, the St. Lawrence Market stands as a historic and beloved destination. This indoor marketplace brims with artisanal vendors selling everything from fresh seafood and meats to baked goods and handcrafted sweets.

Toronto also shines after dark. The Entertainment District, just south of Richmond Street West, comes alive at night with a mix of bars, nightclubs, and live music venues, making it the city’s go-to hotspot for nightlife.

And towering above it all is the CN Tower, the tallest building in Canada and one of its top tourist draws. With sweeping views of the skyline, it’s a must-see. For thrill-seekers, the EdgeWalk offers an unforgettable experience: walking the tower’s outer edge, secured in a harness, high above the city streets.

Niagara Falls: A Timeless Wonder 

Niagara Falls, Canada’s most famous natural attraction, lies about 90 minutes south of Toronto along the Niagara River. This powerful river not only creates the stunning waterfalls but also serves as a natural border between the United States and Canada.

The falls straddle the boundary between New York State (USA) and Ontario (Canada), and are composed of three main waterfalls: Horseshoe Falls, American Falls, and Bridal Veil Falls. The iconic Horseshoe Falls—also known as the Canadian Falls—is the largest and most powerful of the three and stretches across the international border. The American Falls and the smaller Bridal Veil Falls lie entirely within the United States.

Two international bridges connect Niagara Falls, Ontario (Canada) with Niagara Falls, New York (USA). The Rainbow Bridge, located just downstream from the falls, offers the closest pedestrian view and is open to both non-commercial vehicles and foot traffic. The Whirlpool Rapids Bridge, about 1.5 kilometers to the north, is the oldest bridge spanning the Niagara River.

Today, Niagara Falls has transformed into a vibrant, Las Vegas-style destination. The Canadian side is especially lively, offering everything from casinos, arcades, and wax museums to haunted houses, buffets, bars, and a giant Ferris wheel. A short drive away, Marineland—a marine park featuring whales, dolphins, and seals—adds to the family-friendly attractions.

My first visit to Niagara Falls was in 2002, on the American side. This time, we explored the Canadian side, parking just above Queen Victoria Park. From there, we enjoyed sweeping views of all three waterfalls. During our two-day stay, we were fortunate to avoid the usual summer crowds. We learned that in peak season, the area can see up to 150,000 visitors per day, with over 32 million tourists having visited in 2024 alone.

Niagara Falls is breathtaking at any time of day, but the nighttime experience is especially magical. The falls are illuminated each evening by hundreds of LED lights strategically placed across the Niagara Gorge. These lights cast brilliant colors on the cascading water, transforming the falls into a shimmering spectacle. The nightly fireworks display adds another layer of excitement and beauty.

One of the oldest and most iconic attractions is the Maid of the Mist, a boat cruise that has operated since 1846. Departing from the American side, it takes visitors into the roaring mist and churning waters at the base of the falls for an unforgettable experience. On the Canadian side, Hornblower Niagara Cruises—which operated under the same name until 2014—offers a nearly identical, equally thrilling ride.

The falls themselves are fed by the Niagara River, which flows north from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario, eventually reaching the Atlantic Ocean through the St. Lawrence River. Horseshoe Falls stands over 55 meters high and nearly 800 meters wide, making it the most powerful waterfall in North America by flow rate. During peak flow, over 168,000 cubic meters of water thunder over the crest every minute.

However, this natural wonder is slowly changing. The falls erode at an average rate of 30 centimeters per year. At this pace, geologists estimate that the falls will retreat the remaining 32 kilometers (20 miles) to Lake Erie and eventually disappear—Don’t worry not for another 50,000 years.

Skylon Tower
Once the tallest freestanding reinforced concrete structure in the world, the Skylon Tower has stood as an enduring symbol of Niagara Falls since its opening nearly 60 years ago. Over the decades, it has welcomed world leaders, celebrities, and thrill-seekers—some of whom made (illegal) base jumps from its heights, prompting major improvements in safety measures.

With its iconic copper dome, dynamic lighting, and a revolving restaurant, the Skylon Tower offers breathtaking panoramic views from both its indoor and outdoor observation decks. Whether basking in daylight or illuminated against the night sky, it continues to capture the awe and spirit of Niagara Falls for all who visit.

Niagara Falls: Powering the Region with Nature’s Force

Niagara Falls has long stood as a symbol of natural power—and today, it remains New York State’s largest producer of electricity. With a remarkable generating capacity of 2.4 gigawatts (GW), it continues to play a vital role in supplying clean, renewable energy to both the United States and Canada.

Every minute, up to 85,000 cubic meters of water—or 1,400 cubic meters per second—is diverted from the Niagara River through a network of underground tunnels running beneath the city. This massive volume of water flows to the hydroelectric power plants, where it drives turbines that convert kinetic energy into electricity.

Currently, between 50% and 75% of the river’s flow is funneled through four large diversion tunnels, located far upstream of the falls. After passing through the turbines, the water is returned to the river downstream, ensuring efficient energy production without depleting the natural watercourse.

To maintain the scenic beauty of the falls, a treaty between the United States and Canada regulates how much water can be diverted for power generation. The agreement ensures that a steady, uninterrupted “curtain of water” continues to pour over the falls. From April 1 to October 31, during daylight hours—peak tourist season—a minimum of 168,000 cubic meters per minute must flow over the falls. During nighttime and off-season months, this required flow is reduced to 84,000 cubic meters per minute.

In winter, managing ice becomes critical to prevent disruptions in power generation and reduce the risk of shoreline flooding. The New York Power Authority and Ontario Power Generation work together on ice control measures, including the deployment of a 2,700-meter-long ice boom at the mouth of Lake Erie. This structure helps minimize ice buildup while maintaining steady downstream flow.

Jumping Over the Falls

The first widely publicized stunt at Niagara Falls dates back to 1827. Local hotel owners, hoping to attract more visitors, acquired an old Lake Erie schooner named Michigan. They filled it with live animals and lifelike human effigies, towed it to the edge above the falls, and sent it crashing over the brink. Spectators paid fifty cents to watch the dramatic plunge—a spectacle that set the stage for nearly two centuries of daredevilry.

Two years later, in 1829, a man known as Sam Patch—the “Yankee Leapster”—made headlines by leaping from a tall platform into the gorge below the falls and surviving. His bold feat ignited a legacy of thrill-seekers determined to challenge the mighty Niagara.

Over the years, daredevils have used an array of unusual contraptions—wooden barrels, steel drums, and even giant rubber balls—to attempt the perilous journey over the falls. Some emerged with only minor injuries, others with serious harm. A few were rescued, many drowned, and some were never seen again. High-wire artists also joined the fray, walking across ropes stretching more than 500 meters, often performing acrobatic stunts mid-air to the awe of enormous crowds.

One of the most astonishing true stories is known as the “Miracle at Niagara.” In 1960, a seven-year-old boy named Roger Woodward was swept over Horseshoe Falls after the small boat he was in lost power. Just moments earlier, two tourists had managed to save his 17-year-old sister, Deanne, only six meters from the edge near Goat Island. Against all odds, Roger survived the plunge and was pulled to safety by the crew of the Maid of the Mist tour boat, who tossed him a life ring. Tragically, their uncle—the boat’s driver—was carried over the falls and lost his life.

From staged spectacles to real-life miracles, Niagara Falls has long been the backdrop for stories of bravery, desperation, and awe-inspiring survival.

OWEN SOUND, population 21,612

Our next destination was Owen Sound, located about 280 kilometres north of Niagara Falls, at the base of the Bruce Peninsula. Situated on an inlet of Georgian Bay, Owen Sound was once a bustling, rough-and-tumble port filled with brothels and bars. Its rowdy reputation was so notorious that the Americans established a consulate there, primarily to bail out drunk and disorderly sailors.

After spending two days camping at a public carpark right on the shores of Georgian Bay, we set off for the Bruce Peninsula.

Bruce Peninsula

Exploring the Bruce Peninsula: A Gateway to Natural Wonders

The Bruce Peninsula, a striking landform that divides Georgian Bay from the main basin of Lake Huron, is one of Southern Ontario’s most breathtaking natural areas. Towering, rugged cliffs rise above turquoise waters, sheltering thousand-year-old cedar trees. These features are part of a vast, interconnected ecosystem — the largest remaining tract of natural habitat in Southern Ontario.

This diverse landscape includes rare alvars, dense forests, and several small, serene lakes. It is a refuge for wildlife such as black bears and the elusive eastern massasauga rattlesnake, and home to some of the oldest trees in eastern North America.

Our exploration took us to several vantage points, including a stay at Cape Croker Park, a peaceful retreat located within the traditional territory of the Saugeen Ojibway Nation. We ended our journey in Tobermory, a charming village perched at the northern tip of the peninsula.

Tobermory is both a sanctuary and a gateway to adventure. Known for its picturesque harbor, the town serves as the entry point to Bruce Peninsula National Park and Fathom Five National Marine Park — two of Canada’s treasured parks. Visitors come here to hike, dive among shipwrecks, and explore iconic sites like Flowerpot Island. From Tobermory, we boarded the ferry to Manitoulin Island.

Historic lighthouses at Big Tub, Cabot Head, Cove Island, and Flowerpot Island once guided ships safely through these dark and treacherous waters. Today, they welcome visitors, offering spectacular panoramic views of Lake Huron and the surrounding wilderness.

Parks Canada now refers to the region as the Saugeen Peninsula, recognizing it as the traditional territory of the Saugeen Ojibway Nation. However, the national park retains the name Bruce Peninsula National Park for the time being.

The peninsula’s climate is notably cold, with long, snowy winters and mild summers. Lake Huron’s maritime influence keeps summer temperatures cool, making it perfect for hiking and exploring without the oppressive heat found in other regions.

On our final night, in preparation for catching the 7:50 AM ferry to Manitoulin Island, we stayed at a local caravan park in Tobermory. It was our last quiet moment, filled with the wild landscapes, fresh air, and the enduring spirit of this remarkable land.

Manitoulin Island

After a two-hour ferry ride, we arrived at Manitoulin Island, the world’s largest freshwater island, spanning over 2,700 square kilometers. Increasingly popular with tourists, many arrive here on the car ferry from Tobermory. This island is a fantastic destination for overlanders, offering countless quiet and charming spots to explore. About 70 kilometers from the South Baymouth ferry dock, we set up camp at Little Current, where we spent the night right on the beach.

Manitoulin Island is home to around twelve thousand people, roughly a quarter of whom are Aboriginal. These Indigenous communities descend primarily from the Ojibwa and Odawa tribes, groups believed to have lived here for over ten thousand years. According to Ojibwa tradition, when Gitchi Manitou—the Great Spirit—created the world, he kept the best parts for himself and made Manitoulin Island his home, calling it “God’s Island.”

Sault Ste Marie

Traveling along the scenic byway beside Lake Huron, you’ll arrive at Sault Ste. Marie, a vibrant city situated on the banks of the St. Marys River, which connects Lake Huron to Lake Superior. Known as the “heart” of the Great Lakes, the city sits at the crossroads of major routes: Interstate 75 from the United States to the south, and the Trans-Canada Highway stretching east and west. The International Bridge, linking Sault Ste. Marie to the U.S., adds a unique international flair to this waterfront community.

One of the city’s highlights is the Canadian Bushplane Heritage Centre, housed in a historic waterfront hangar where northern Ontario’s aviation history took flight. Spanning 64,000 square feet, the Centre features interactive, hands-on exhibits and world-class theatre presentations, including the thrilling “Wildfires! A Fire Fighting Adventure in 3D.”

At the end of the boardwalk lies the Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site, a beautiful and historic location where visitors can see the locks that still operate, allowing vessels to enter Lake Superior. You can even cross the locks and take in the breathtaking rapids of the St. Mary’s River.

Lake Superior

After leaving Sault Ste. Marie, we followed the Trans-Canada Highway northward along the rugged, mountainous shoreline through a remote region of Ontario. About 300 kilometers north of Sault Ste. Marie, the highway curves west and hugs the northern shore of Lake Superior, leading us toward Nipigon and Thunder Bay.

That evening, we camped at Haviland Bay, a beautiful cove on Lake Superior’s edge, just 40 kilometers north of Sault Ste. Marie. The spot featured a peaceful beach nestled within a quiet, sheltered bay—perfect for soaking in the natural beauty of the lake.

Traveling along Lake Superior, we discovered quaint historic hamlets and villages scattered along the shore, each with its own unique character. The coastline alternates between stunning sandy beaches and rugged rocky cliffs, framed by pristine wilderness stretching as far as the eye can see. The water of Lake Superior is remarkably clear and clean—locals say it’s perfect for swimming, though for us, it was simply too cold to brave.

Even though the Trans-Canada Highway is the main artery west and roughly follows the shoreline, leaving Sault Ste. Marie feels like entering a wild frontier. Small towns appear briefly, barely clinging to life, before fading back into the dense forest that envelops the rolling cliffs along the route. Thick fog frequently rolls off the lake in the middle of the day, and the weather can shift dramatically in an instant. After dark, the absence of artificial lights outside these towns becomes evident, and deer and moose roam freely, posing real dangers to drivers.

Lake Superior is the world’s largest freshwater lake by surface area and the third largest by volume, following only Lake Baikal in Siberia and Lake Tanganyika in East Africa. It holds about 10% of all the fresh water in the world’s lakes and rivers. Its vast surface area of 82,103 square kilometers is roughly the size of Austria in Europe. The lake straddles the Canada–United States border, bordered by Minnesota to the west and Michigan and Wisconsin to the south, with Ontario lying to the north and east. Water from Lake Superior flows out via the St. Marys River into Lake Huron, eventually reaching the Atlantic Ocean through the Great Lakes and the St. Lawrence River.

The lake is known for its fierce annual storms, regularly producing waves over six meters high, with some waves surpassing nine meters. With an average water temperature of just 4°C, Lake Superior is far from inviting for casual swimmers.

More than 200 rivers feed into this massive lake, while its outlet, the St. Marys River, features steep rapids. The famous Soo Locks allow ships to bypass these rapids and overcome the eight-meter elevation difference between Lakes Superior and Huron. Lake Superior has long been a vital link in the Great Lakes waterway, enabling the transport of iron ore, grain, and other goods. Massive cargo vessels, known as lake freighters, along with smaller ocean-going ships, navigate its waters to carry these commodities across the lake.

Lake Superior Provincial Park

About 40 kilometers north of our campsite, we stopped at Lake Superior Provincial Park, located between Sault Ste. Marie and the town of Wawa in Algoma District, Northeastern Ontario. This vast park spans approximately 1,550 square kilometers, making it one of Ontario’s largest provincial parks.

 

The park offers easy access to the shoreline of Lake Superior and features a diverse landscape of waterfalls, sandy beaches, inland lakes, and rugged cliffs. Highway 17, part of the Trans-Canada Highway, runs right through the park, providing convenient access.

Lake Superior Provincial Park is home to a thriving population of moose, black bears, and grey wolves. Its predominantly rocky coastline is beautifully punctuated by stretches of sandy beaches, creating a unique and captivating natural environment.

Montreal River and Montreal River Harbour 

Montreal River and Montreal River Harbour form a tiny community nestled at the mouth of the Montreal River, just south of Lake Superior Provincial Park. Just north of the settlement lies the Montreal River Hill, celebrated for its breathtaking views of the surrounding wilderness.

Wawa (Michipicoten)

Wawa, also known as Michipicoten, is located at the junction of Highway 17 and Highway 101, about 220 kilometers from Sault Ste. Marie on the northeastern shore of Lake Superior. The town is best known for its iconic Big Goose Monument. In the Ojibway language, “Wawa” means “wild goose,” which explains why the town’s mascot is a giant goose statue. This impressive monument sits perched on a large rock, welcoming visitors at the crossroads of the Trans-Canada Highway and Highway 101.

The Wawa Goose was erected to commemorate the opening of the final section of the Lake Superior stretch of the Trans-Canada Highway over 50 years ago. Wawa also hosts one of Ontario’s most popular ice fishing events, the annual Wawa Ice Fishing Derby. We explored scenic spots such as the beautiful High Falls, Silver Falls, and Sandy Beach—made famous by Group of Seven painter A.Y. Jackson. Another unique stop is the quirky Young General Store, adding to the town’s charm.

White River

White River is a small village with a population of around 50, located in Northeastern Ontario, Canada, at the western edge of the Algoma District. It lies along the White River itself, at the junction of the Trans-Canada Highway and Highway 631. Similar to the nearby town of Wawa, White River has been accessible only by car since the early 1960s. This improved access brought new industries and businesses, especially tourism, helping the town evolve from its origins as an exclusive railway settlement.

White River is known for its extreme cold, often advertising itself as one of the coldest places in Canada. Temperatures have been recorded as low as −58 °C. While the coldest temperature in Canada was officially recorded in Snag, Yukon at −62.8 °C, Ontario’s lowest temperature was in Iroquois Falls at −58.3 °C.

The village is perhaps best known for its connection to Winnie the Pooh. In August 1914, a trapped black bear was sold to a man from Winnipeg, who named the bear “Winnie” after his hometown. Over time, this bear inspired the beloved literary character created by A.A. Milne. To honor this heritage, White River celebrates “Winnie’s Hometown Festival” every year during the third week of August.

Pukaskwa National Park

Pukaskwa National Park, located south of the town of Marathon, was established in 1978 and is renowned for its breathtaking views of Lake Superior and its dense boreal forests. Covering an area of 1,878 square kilometers, the park protects one of the longest undeveloped shorelines in the Great Lakes region. Wildlife abounds here, including black bears—often seen feasting on blueberry bushes—moose, peregrine falcons, wolves, and bald eagles. Although the park once had a small population of woodland caribou, they were lost by 2020, primarily due to wolf predation. Cougars may also inhabit the area, but their numbers remain unknown. Visitors can explore pine forests, towering cliffs, and secluded sandy beaches along the shore.

Rather than paying $45 CAD for an unserviced site in provincial or national parks—which are often fully booked or nearly so—we prefer to bushcamp and discover hidden gems along the way. One such gem was the spot we stayed at tonight on Melgrund Lake. The narrow track in was challenging, but the peaceful location on this small lake made it all worthwhile.

Ruby Lake Provincial Park

This small provincial park, which is located at the mouth of the Nipigon River, incorporates three small lakes, wetlands, cliffs and ravines. It is located adjacent to Parks Canada’s National Marine Conservation Area. Wit little luck you may spot bald eagles and falcons.

 

Rossport

With a population of just 110, the charming village of Rossport lies along the North Shore of Lake Superior. We stopped here to explore the picturesque village and Nicol Island, which is connected to the mainland by a causeway.

Nestled peacefully on one of Lake Superior’s most sheltered harbors, Rossport overlooks the pristine Rossport Islands, part of a vast archipelago recently designated as Canada’s newest Marine Conservation Area. The village is a magnet for divers eager to explore the wreck of the Gunilda, a popular site for technical diving, and hikers from around the world who come to experience the stunning Casque Isle hiking trail.

Wildlife abounds in and around Rossport, with frequent sightings of deer, moose, bears, bald eagles, lynx, foxes, and wolves, making it a nature lover’s paradise.

Sleeping Giant Provincial Park

Located on the Sibley Peninsula, which stretches 52 kilometers long and 10 kilometers wide, Sleeping Giant Provincial Park borders Lake Superior’s North Shore. The peninsula extends into Lake Superior, separating Thunder Bay to the west from Black Bay to the east. It also lies adjacent to the Lake Superior National Marine Conservation Area.

Sleeping Giant Provincial Park covers 244 square kilometers and was originally established in 1944 as Sibley Provincial Park before being renamed in 1988. The park is just a short drive from Thunder Bay and features diverse landscapes, including lowlands, cliffs, and valleys, offering stunning views of Lake Superior and the surrounding region.

The park is famous for the Sleeping Giant, a series of mesas formed by the erosion of thick diabase sills on the Sibley Peninsula. When viewed from the west to the north-northwest of Thunder Bay, the formation resembles a giant lying on its back. Moving south along the shoreline toward Sawyer’s Bay, the giant appears to separate into distinct sections, with a notable “Adam’s Apple” visible from the cliffs at Sawyer’s Bay. The park’s dramatic cliffs rise as high as 250 meters, with the southernmost point known as Thunder Cape.

Wildlife in the park is abundant and diverse. Dominant mammals include white-tailed deer and black bears, while nearly 200 bird species have been recorded, with around 75 species nesting within the park.

During our visit, we stayed at the national park campground, surrounded by the natural beauty and wildlife that make Sleeping Giant Provincial Park such a special place.

Thunder Bay, Population 120000

Thunder Bay is the biggest city along Lake Superior. It is the most populated municipality in Northwestern Ontario. Thunder Bay’s best lies along water. On the south edge of town, old-fashioned Chippewa Park has amusement rides, a wildlife park, and a beach on Lake Superior Thunder Bay’s surroundings are spectacular: Mount McKay on the south, Kakabeka Falls to the west and Ouimet and Eagle canyons to the North. Sunset from Thunder Bay, the view of Sleeping Giant from Port Arthur’s Marina Park is mesmerizing. The breakwall light station gleams in the waning rays, and fleecy banks of pink and blue clouds float over the peninsula.

Kakabeka Falls,

Kakabeka Falls is a stunning natural wonder located in Kakabeka Falls Provincial Park, just west of Thunder Bay also known as the “Niagara of the North,” is a breathtaking 40-meter-tall waterfall and about 150 meters across the Kaministiquia River. located 30 kilometres west of Thunder Bay on the Kaministiquia River. The name Kakabeka means “waterfall over a cliff” in Ojibwe.

 

Kenora, population 14000. 

We are now heading west from Thunder Bay, to Winnipeg in Manitoba almost 700 kilometers away. We are back on the Trans Canadian Highway amidst the interminable pine forests of the Canadian Shield, and stopped in Kenora. The town is located on Lake of the woods just before the Manitoba boundary . a sculpture known as Husky the Muskie has become the town’s mascot and one of its most recognizable features. Our last Bush camp in Ontario at Lake Rabbit.

 

MANITOBA

Manitoba is boring?????

Manitoba is anything but boring — it’s a hidden gem full of vibrant culture, breathtaking natural beauty, and warm, welcoming communities. From the stunning pristine wilderness to the Indigenous heritage and multiculturalism.  Its vast landscapes invite adventure, whether it’s exploring the rugged beauty of Riding Mountain National Park, bush camping on crystal-clear lakes, or spotting Black Bears, Wolves, Cougars and other wildlife. Manitoba’s rich history and strong sense of community make it a place Far from dull, and connecting with locals is easy.

MANITOBA, population 1.3 million

Manitoba: Heart of Canada

Manitoba is a central Canadian province known for its diverse landscapes, rich Indigenous heritage, and vibrant cultural scene. Its capital and largest city, Winnipeg, serves as the seat of government and is home to nearly 700,000 residents, accounting for about half of Manitoba’s population of 1.4 million.

Indigenous Peoples and Language

Indigenous peoples have lived in the region now known as Manitoba for thousands of years. Today, they represent the fastest-growing ethnic group in the province, with approximately 176,800 people, or 13.6% of the population.

Manitoba is officially bilingual, recognizing both English and French. However, only about 8% of the population speaks French.

Geography and Natural Beauty

Located at the longitudinal centre of Canada, Manitoba is bordered by Ontario to the east, Saskatchewan to the west, Nunavut to the north, and the U.S. states of North Dakota and Minnesota to the south.

The province boasts a strikingly varied landscape:

• Prairie grasslands dominate the south,
• Forests and large freshwater lakes define the central regions,
• While the northern areas transition into Arctic tundra.

Nearly 48% of Manitoba is forested, though two areas are not: the northeast corner, which is above the treeline and considered tundra, and the southern prairie region.

Manitoba is also home to over 110,000 lakes, covering approximately 15.6% of its total area. Notable among these are Lake Manitoba, Lake Winnipegosis, and Lake Winnipeg—the 10th largest freshwater lake in the world. The province even has a saltwater coastline along Hudson Bay in the north.

Wildlife

Manitoba is world-famous for its polar bear population, especially around Churchill, known as the “Polar Bear Capital of the World.” The coastal waters of Hudson Bay are also home to beluga whales, while the province supports diverse wildlife including brown bears, cougars, grey wolves, and many others.

Culture

Manitoba has produced world-renowned musicians such as Neil Young and bands like Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young and Bachman-Turner Overdrive.

The province celebrates its cultural richness through numerous festivals:

• The Winnipeg Folk Festival attracts more than 70,000 attendees annually.
• The Festival du Voyageur, Western Canada’s largest winter festival, runs for ten days each year in Winnipeg’s French Quarter, honoring French-Canadian heritage and the province’s fur-trading past.
• Folklorama, one of the largest multicultural festivals in the world, welcomes around 400,000 visitors, including 150,000 from outside the province.

 

Centre of Canada

Our first stop in Manitoba was just before reaching Winnipeg, was at the Longitudinal Centre of Canada — a unique landmark based on the distance from the farthest eastern and western points of the country. Located at 96°48′35″W, the site sits just outside the village of Tache, Manitoba.

In hopes of attracting more tourists, local tourism volunteers and business operators have ambitious plans for the site. These include a visitor centre, an observatory, interactive displays, a 20-acre park featuring a wetland area, a playground, and a large special event space.

But as the site gains popularity, a debate has surfaced: Is this truly the centre of Canada? According to The Atlas of Canada, the actual geographical centre lies about 20 minutes east of Tache. Other regions also stake their claim, including Baker Lake, Nunavut — considered the centre if you measure both latitude and longitude.

In the end, only time will tell where the definitive centre of Canada lies. Still, this attraction near Tache can proudly claim to be the centre from an east–west (longitudinal) perspective.

Well done, Tache! With vision, hard work, and a convenient location near Winnipeg, this roadside attraction is likely to be the one that captures the most visitors — and the imagination of many.

 

Steinbach:

Located along Highway 12, the giant 1931 Rolls Royce replica stands as a striking tribute to Steinbach’s deep-rooted connection to the automobile industry. The city’s automotive legacy began in 1914 with the establishment of its first car dealership. Since then, Steinbach has proudly embraced the title of “Automobile City,” celebrating over a century of automotive history and commerce.

WINNIPEG

Winnipeg: A Multicultural Prairie Gem

Winnipeg, the capital and largest city of Manitoba, is home to approximately 750,000 residents. The city takes its name from nearby Lake Winnipeg, with “Winnipeg” derived from the Western Cree words winipīhk, meaning “muddy water.” Located deep inland, Winnipeg experiences an extremely seasonal climate—even by Canadian standards. Average highs range from −11 °C in January to 26 °C in July. During our visit, we experienced a sharp 10-degree drop in temperature from one day to the next.

This multicultural city boasts a vibrant dining scene featuring a wide range of Eastern European, Western European, and Asian cuisines. The West End area is particularly well known for its diverse culinary offerings, including Ethiopian, Pakistani, Chinese, and Vietnamese restaurants.

Winnipeg is also rich in festivals and cultural events. Some of the city’s most celebrated annual festivals include the Winnipeg Folk Festival, the winter-themed Festival du Voyageur, and Pride Winnipeg, which features a parade and a film festival showcasing LGBTQ+ themed films.

Not being big city people, we opted for a more relaxed visit. We did some shopping and explored The Forks, a historic area where the Assiniboine and Red Rivers meet. Many of the buildings here are remnants of its past as a bustling rail depot, including the Forks Market. Nearby, the Johnston Terminal and The Plaza offer a variety of shops selling locally made products from across Manitoba.

We also explored St. Boniface, home to the largest Francophone community in Western Canada. Walking through the neighbourhood, it’s easy to feel the deep-rooted passion for culture, food, and the arts. A highlight is the stunning Saint Boniface Cathedral, rebuilt in 1971 after a devastating fire destroyed most of the previous structure.

Although we didn’t get the chance to visit, we later learned that Assiniboine Park & Zoo is another top attraction. Of special note is the Churchill exhibit—a nod to Manitoba’s far north and its reputation as the polar bear capital of the world. The exhibit features the Sea Ice Passage, an underwater viewing tunnel where visitors can watch polar bears swim overhead and seals play.

a cloudy sky and picnic tables.

LAKE WINNIPEG

The lake is a popular destination for recreation and tourism. Its southern beaches attract thousands of summer visitors, especially from the nearby city of Winnipeg. Lake Winnipeg is internationally recognized for its excellent fishing opportunities, drawing anglers from around the world.

Lake Winnipeg, located in a lowland basin in central Canada, is the remnant of the vast glacial Lake Agassiz. Stretching approximately 416 kilometers in length and up to 109 kilometers in width, it remains one of North America’s largest freshwater lakes. Although extensive in area, the lake is relatively shallow, with a maximum depth of 36 meters and an average depth of about 12 meters.

Draining northward into the Nelson River, Lake Winnipeg is part of the massive Hudson Bay watershed—one of the largest drainage basins in the world. Water flows from the lake at an average annual rate of 2,066 cubic metres per second, playing a key role in the region’s hydrology.

Ecologically, Lake Winnipeg is of global importance, especially during the fall bird migration. The sandbars east of Riverton serve as a critical staging area for large populations of waterfowl and shorebirds. Similarly, the Netley-Libau Marsh—located where the Red River flows into the lake—provides a vital resting and feeding area for geese, ducks, and swallows as they prepare for their journey south.

But some of the locals told us Natural Treasure Facing Environmental Challenge. Telling us this natural gem is facing a serious environmental threat. Lake Winnipeg is experiencing a rapid increase in cyanobacterial (blue-green algae) blooms. This issue is largely driven by excessive phosphorus entering the lake, primarily from agricultural runoff, wastewater discharge, and urban stormwater. Phosphorus levels are now nearing a threshold that could pose significant risks to human health, while also threatening aquatic ecosystems and recreational water use. According what we are told by the locals, protecting Lake Winnipeg will require coordinated efforts to reduce nutrient pollution, safeguard its biodiversity, and preserve its value for future generations.

Winnipeg Beach

Our first stop was this beachside village located 55 kilometers north of Winnipeg, in Manitoba’s Interlake region. We stayed at Winnipeg Beach Provincial Park, and this spot was truly amazing.

We camped near a striking 40-metre-high tower that once supported a 90,000-litre water tank. This tower provided pressurized water for steam locomotives in the past. Although it’s no longer operational, the structure remains a prominent visual landmark and one of the best preserved symbols of the community’s railway history.

The province of Manitoba has made efforts to revitalize the town, but progress has stalled due to various challenges and a lack of consistent government support. Today, the main event that remains is Boardwalk Day, an annual summer celebration. It features a carnival, market, outdoor food court, fireworks, and live band performances. Despite the decline, it’s still a charming little community well worth the visit.

Gimli

Gimli, Manitoba is located approximately 80 kilometers north of the provincial capital, Winnipeg, on the west shore of Lake Winnipeg. Originally settled by Icelanders, Gimli remains the cultural heartland of Icelandic heritage in both Manitoba and Canada. Today, 28.4% of its approximately 2,000 residents claim some Icelandic ancestry. English is the mother tongue of 89.3% of Gimlungars, and 11% identify as Indigenous Canadians.

Tourism and fishing are the mainstays of Gimli’s economy. The community is home to over 50 commercial fishing families, many of whom are fourth-generation fishers of Icelandic descent. The harbour plays a vital role in supporting this longstanding industry. A major local employer is the Crown Royal whisky distillery, where whisky is stored in 1.7 million barrels across 56 warehouses spread over five acres.

Gimli is also a popular summer destination. Gimli Beach draws visitors from July to August, and the Gimli Pier and Seawall Gallery—a 298-metre cement wall adorned with 72 murals—offer a visual narrative of the town’s rich history.

Cultural celebrations are central to the community. The Icelandic Festival of Manitoba, held over the first weekend in August, attracts thousands of tourists each year. Another highlight is the Gimli Film Festival, a five-day summer event featuring films screened outdoors on an 11-metre screen set up on Lake Winnipeg.

With its unique blend of heritage, economic resilience, and scenic beauty, Gimli continues to celebrate and preserve its Icelandic roots while welcoming the world.

AIR CANADA NEAR DISASTER

The Gimli Glider: A Remarkable Visit

Air Canada Flight 143 was a scheduled domestic flight from Montreal to Edmonton that experienced an extraordinary mid-flight emergency on July 23, 1983. Midway through the journey, the aircraft ran out of fuel at cruising altitude — 12,500 meters above Manitoba. In an incredible feat of skill and composure, the flight crew managed to glide the Boeing 767 to a safe emergency landing at a decommissioned Royal Canadian Air Force base in Gimli, which had been converted into a motorsport track, now known as Gimli Motorsports Park.

Amazingly, there were no serious injuries among the passengers or anyone on the ground, and the aircraft sustained only minor damage. The incident earned the aircraft the nickname “The Gimli Glider.”

The accident was the result of a chain of errors, beginning with a malfunction in the Fuel Quantity Indication System (FQIS) — a common issue in early Boeing 767s. The replacement unit was also faulty. Maintenance crews, misunderstanding the situation, disabled the backup system. This meant the fuel had to be measured manually using a dipstick. Unfortunately, a miscalculation occurred during the conversion of fuel volume to mass. The fuel was supposed to be entered in kilograms, but it was mistakenly calculated using a pounds-per-liter conversion, leading everyone to believe the aircraft was properly fueled. In reality, it was carrying only 45% of the required amount. It ran out of fuel en route to Edmonton, where a functional FQIS was waiting to be installed.

In June 2017, a permanent museum exhibit commemorating the Gimli Glider was opened in Gimli. It features a cockpit mock-up and a flight simulator that lets visitors experience what the pilots faced. Sadly, during our visit, the museum was closed — a bit of a disappointment, but still a powerful reminder of this astonishing aviation story.

Hnausa

Hnausa:

We spend a great few days on the beach in this great community with Deep Icelandic Roots

Hnausa is a small, peaceful community located in the area known as New Iceland, in Manitoba’s Interlake Region. It sits about 10 kilometres south of Riverton, along Breidavik—a name that means “Broad Bay” in Icelandic—on the western shore of Lake Winnipeg.

The settlement was founded in 1876 by 35 Icelandic families who immigrated to the area in search of a new life. Just over a decade later, in 1889, the Hnausa Post Office was opened in the home of Reverend Magnus J. Skaptason. Many of Hnausa’s current residents are descendants of those original settlers.

In its early days, Hnausa thrived. It had its own school, post office, general store, sawmill, community hall, and even a gas station. It was a vibrant and self-sufficient community.

Today, Hnausa is much smaller. The community hall still stands and serves as a reminder of its active past. While only a few people live in the area year-round, many own summer cottages, returning each year to enjoy the natural beauty and quiet charm of the region.

Just south of the community lies Hnausa Beach Provincial Park, a popular spot for camping and relaxing on the sandy western shore of Lake Winnipeg. A nearby federal dock adds to the appeal for boaters and visitors.

Though quieter now, Hnausa remains a special place with a rich heritage and lasting ties to its Icelandic beginnings.

RIVERTON

This small village of approximately 475 residents, located about 110 kilometres north of Winnipeg, and just North of Hnausa. Formerly known as Icelandic River—named after the river that flows through it—the village has a rich Icelandic heritage. Its economy is primarily based on fishing and agriculture. Riverton also serves as a starting point for the winter (ice) roads that connect to northern communities. In the summer months, it acts as a gateway to Hecla-Grindstone Provincial Park, making it a notable access point for outdoor recreation in the region.

Eriksdale

Known for producing one of the world’s most beloved toast toppings—butter—the Eriksdale Creamery Museum stands as a unique tribute to Manitoba’s dairy heritage. Though we were disappointed to find it closed during our visit, we learned it’s truly one of a kind in the province.

Constructed around 1912, the creamery was built in a typical wood-frame style common to early 20th-century agricultural buildings. Like many such facilities, it eventually specialized in butter-finishing and cutting in its later years. After nearly eight decades of operation, the Eriksdale Creamery permanently closed its doors in 1990, but its legacy lives on through the museum and the community that preserves it. Calling it A Buttery Slice of Manitoba History

 

Lake Manitoba

Lake Manitoba
Discover one of Manitoba’s stunning natural marshlands at Lake Manitoba. The area offers breathtaking sunsets over the lake, perfect for photographers and nature lovers alike. Located along the North-South Flyway, it’s also an ideal spot for birdwatching—especially to witness Manitoba’s largest goose! This iconic goose sculpture rests on a revolving mount that turns gracefully with the wind, making it a must-see landmark on your visit.

 

 

RIDING MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK

Riding Mountain National Park is in Treaty 2 Territory.

Manitoba is home to only two national parks: Riding Mountain and Wapusk National Park, the latter located near Churchill in Northern Manitoba. While Riding Mountain is typically accessed from the south, we arrived from the north, with our first stop being the scenic Moon Lake.

Riding Mountain National Park is a perfect destination for anyone who loves the outdoors. The park spans nearly 3000 km² and offers a striking contrast to the surrounding prairie farmland. It’s a place of windswept grasslands and deep, silent forests—home to secretive wolf packs, black bears, delicate orchids and lilies, and wetlands alive with birds and biodiversity. Please note not all the wildlife pictures are ours. While walking to Lake Audry Dam, Until today, we only encountered wolves, black bears and other wildlife around our truck while we were inside, or we saw them approaching, which gave us time to get inside safely, But today was different…we had a sudden scare while walking to Lake Audry Dam we encountered a black bear. Luckily, he seemed just as frightened of us as we were of him, and he quickly disappeared into the woods.

Rising more than 457 metres above the surrounding landscape, Riding Mountain is the highest point in the region. It’s bordered by the Manitoba Escarpment to the east, the Valley and Wilson Rivers to the north, and a broad valley to the west, beyond which lies the Saskatchewan Plain.

Riding Mountain was designated a national park because it protects three distinct ecosystems that converge here: grasslands, upland boreal forest, and eastern deciduous forest. This ecological diversity makes it one of the most unique and important protected areas in Canada.

We also visited Wasagaming, located on the south side of the park. It’s the only commercial centre within the park boundaries and serves as a gateway for many visitors. For thousands of years, Indigenous peoples have lived in and stewarded this land—and they continue to do so today.

The park also holds historical significance. During World War II, Riding Mountain was home to the Whitewater labour camp for German prisoners of war. Operating from 1943 to 1945 on the northeast shore of Whitewater Lake, the camp consisted of fifteen buildings and housed around 440 to 450 prisoners. It has since been dismantled, but its history remains a lesser-known chapter of the park’s past.

Riding Mountain teems with wildlife. It boasts one of the largest populations of black bears in North America, as well as timber wolves, moose, cougars, lynx, and many other species. The park is dotted with beautiful freshwater lakes, including Clear Lake, Lake Audy, Moon Lake, and Whirlpool Lake.

For those who enjoy backcountry experiences, campgrounds are available at Lake Audy, Moon Lake, and Deep Lake. There are also 15 picnic sites throughout the park, usually located along major roads and trails such as those near Wasagaming, Lake Audy, and Moon Lake. These sites are equipped with barbecue pits, pit privies, and, in most cases, access to drinking water.

Riding Mountain is open year-round, but like much of Canada, many restaurants, shops, and accommodations close during the winter months. As overlanders, we are self-sufficient and prepared for those quieter off-season visits. A ranger told us that the park enjoys about 320 sunny days a year—though, unfortunately, we weren’t so lucky during our stay!

Lake Audy

We camped at Lake Audy, a fantastic campsite right on the lake and an excellent spot for wildlife watching. The area is known for its abundant bears and wolves. One memorable moment was our first face-to-face encounter with a large black bear while walking to the Lake Audy Dam. Fortunately, the bear was just as startled by us as we were by it.

Another highlight of the trip was seeing the bison herd up close. Bison once roamed all across Manitoba but were sadly hunted to near extinction in the nineteenth century.

We stayed at the Lake Audy campground, right on the waterfront. Although the weather wasn’t great—around 9 degrees, windy, and rainy—the location made up for it. The campground is inside the national park, so it wasn’t free camping. It offered no services except drop toilets, and the cost was $17.50 per night. The campground operates on a first-come, first-served basis.

Wasagaming

Wasagaming, also known as Clear Lake, is the main townsite located at the south gate of Riding Mountain National Park. Nestled on the southern shores of Clear Lake—the largest lake in the park—Wasagaming serves as a popular destination for visitors.

During the summer months, from June to September, the town becomes a bustling hub, attracting over 300,000 tourists. This seasonal influx makes Wasagaming a lively place with numerous restaurants, hotels, and various businesses catering to the high volume of visitors. The area is also home to roughly 40,000 cottagers, most of whom use their properties only during the summer season.

Because Wasagaming is situated within Riding Mountain National Park, its population fluctuates dramatically throughout the year. The only permanent residents—approximately 40 in total—are primarily Parks Canada employees and their families who live there year-round.

D. SASKATCHEWAN

GENERAL INFORMATION (PHOTOS COMING SOON)

Saskatchewan: A Land of Sky, Water, and Opportunity

Sprawling prairie land, 100,000 lakes and rivers, and a sky that never ends — this is Saskatchewan. The province’s name is derived from the Cree word Kisiskatchewanisipi, meaning “swift-flowing river.”

Saskatchewan is bordered by Alberta to the west, the Northwest Territories to the north, Manitoba to the east, and Nunavut to the northeast. To the south, it shares a border with the U.S. states of Montana and North Dakota. Together with Alberta, Saskatchewan is one of Canada’s only two landlocked provinces.

As of 2025, the province’s population was estimated at 1.3 million, with roughly 50% living in and around Saskatoon and Regina. Nearly 10% of Saskatchewan’s vast area consists of freshwater — rivers, reservoirs, and lakes.

While Canada is officially bilingual (English and French), French is not widely spoken in Saskatchewan. However, federal institutions such as Service Canada offices, national parks, and major airports (in Saskatoon and Regina) are mandated to offer services in both languages.

Landscape and Nature

Saskatchewan has two major natural regions: the boreal forest in the north and the prairie grasslands in the south. Northern Saskatchewan is largely forested, except for the Lake Athabasca Sand Dunes — the largest active sand dunes in the world north of the 58th parallel. The province’s highest point is 1,392 metres, located in the Cypress Hills, less than 2 km from the Alberta border.

Despite its prairie reputation, Saskatchewan surprises many with its diversity of landscapes. The north is home to dense forests and most of the province’s lakes, while the southern prairies feature vast wheat fields, rolling hills, and an iconic open sky. With very little light pollution, the stargazing here is spectacular — a distinctive and peaceful part of the prairie experience.

Economy and Industry

Saskatchewan’s economy is built on agriculture, mining, and energy. It is the world’s largest exporter of mustard seed, and its beef cattle industry is second only to Alberta’s within Canada. In the north, forestry also contributes significantly to the economy.

Mining is a major driver: Saskatchewan is the world’s largest exporter of both potash and uranium. The province is also a major player in oil and gas — it is Canada’s second-largest oil producer, following Alberta. Southeastern Saskatchewan has extensive oilfields, and the north contains large deposits of lignite coal and uranium, which have spurred economic growth. Farming, once the dominant industry, now contributes less to total income, with farm net income dropping from $3.3 billion in 2017.

Infrastructure and Access

The Trans-Canada Highway runs through the southern part of Saskatchewan, passing through major cities like Regina and Moose Jaw, and connecting the province with Alberta and Manitoba. Several U.S.-Canada border crossings serve travelers moving between the two countries. In contrast, the northern half of the province has limited road access. Many remote communities and recreational areas are accessible only by air or via seasonal winter roads.

Safety and Impressions as Overlanders

As overlanders, we’ve always found the world to be a surprisingly safe place — much safer than the headlines often suggest. While travelers in the U.S. are frequently warned about safety due to widespread gun access and regular mass shootings, Canada presents a different reality.

We were told that Saskatchewan is home to three of Canada’s least safe cities — Saskatoon, Regina, and Prince Albert. While we didn’t visit Regina (often cited as Canada’s most dangerous city), we did explore the other two and found the people to be welcoming and friendly. Like in most large cities around the world, there are areas that are best avoided at night — but we, as overlanders, have no reason to venture into those neighborhoods.

During our travels, we’ve stayed overnight at Walmart parking lots in both the U.S. and Canada without incident. In larger cities, our primary reason for stopping is shopping, and these urban centres have always felt manageable and accommodating from an overlander’s perspective.

Controversy
In June 2021, a graveyard containing the remains of 751 unidentified individuals was discovered at the site of the former Marieval Indian Residential School, part of the Canadian Indian residential school system. According to the Federation of Sovereign Indigenous Nations, which represents Saskatchewan’s First Nations, this was the largest such discovery in Canada at the time. It was the third instance of unmarked graves being uncovered that year, following the discovery in May 2021 of 215 unmarked anomalies at the Kamloops Indian Residential School.

ROADS
Like we’ve seen elsewhere in Canada, many of Saskatchewan’s highways are also poorly maintained. Surprisingly, many of the rural roads—although unpaved—are actually easier to drive on than the deteriorating paved ones. If you enjoy the challenge of gravel roads, Saskatchewan has plenty to offer.

The province boasts around 26,600 kilometers of highways and divided highways. These include a range of surfaces: Asphalt concrete pavement makes up nearly 9,000 km, Granular pavement covers around 5,000 km, Non-structural roads total close to 7,000 km and Gravel highways extend over 5,600 km

In the northern regions, there are also seasonal ice roads—only accessible during the winter months. We plan to explore these during our 2026 journey, when we’ll travel to Yellowknife in winter.

We genuinely believe that many gravel roads in Canada are smoother and more reliable than the poorly maintained paved ones. Harsh winters are often blamed for the damage, but that raises a valid question:
Why are the roads in Iceland and along the Trans-Siberian Highway not affected in the same way?

Exploring Saskatchewan

Our plan was to continue north from the historic town of The Pas to Snow Lake and Flin Flon, but our route was cut short when the road was closed due to bushfires, and the town of Flin Flon was evacuated.

The true gem of northern Manitoba is Clearwater Lake—aptly nicknamed the Jewel of the North. This spring-fed lake, as we were told, is crystal clear, and its stunning turquoise hue must be seen to be believed.

Snow Lake, another intended stop, is said to be a picturesque setting, surrounded by a multitude of beautiful lakes such as Herb, Kormans, Tramping, and Osborn Lakes, as well as the scenic Wekusko Falls. Our original plan was to cross into Saskatchewan from Flin Flon—a town built on ancient volcanic rock—where we had hoped to visit the retro Big Island Drive-In. Sadly, due to the severe bushfires, we were unable to visit the area.

Instead, our first stop in Saskatchewan was Buchanan, where we parked next to the local cemetery. From there, we followed Highways 5 and 6, also known as the CanAm Highway—though only in name, as the road surface was rougher than a gravel road.

We turned north at Watson, located roughly halfway between Saskatoon and Regina. Known as the “Industrial Crossroads of Saskatchewan,” Watson led us toward Prince Albert. On the way, we passed through Birch Hills, southeast of Prince Albert, and the Muskoday First Nation reserve. The name “Birch Hills” comes from the birch trees once used to craft birchbark canoes during the fur trade era of the 18th century.

Our next major stop—and a chance to restock at Walmart—was Prince Albert, located on the North Saskatchewan River, about 142 kilometers north of Saskatoon. Today, the city serves as a major distribution point for northern Saskatchewan and supports the region’s gold and uranium mining operations. Key industries in the area include oil extraction, woodworking, pulp and paper milling, and food packaging. Prince Albert is also the gateway to Prince Albert National Park, located roughly 100 kilometers to the north.

La Ronge

La Ronge is located in Northern Saskatchewan, approximately 150 km north of Prince Albert National Park. It lies on the western shore of Lac La Ronge and is surrounded by several First Nations reserves. Just south of the community is the Northern Village of Air Ronge.

In July 2015, La Ronge faced a serious threat from widespread forest fires. The fires merged and forced approximately 7,000 residents to evacuate their homes. Many cabins and houses were destroyed, and the fire came within 2 km of the town itself. It also burned completely around the La Ronge Airport, complicating firefighting efforts due to smoke and unpredictable weather. In total, over 100 wildfires were burning across Northern Saskatchewan at once, triggering the largest evacuation in the province’s history with more than 13,000 people displaced.

Despite such challenges, La Ronge remains a popular destination for tourism. During the summer, it is busy with locals who come to explore Lac La Ronge Provincial Park — Saskatchewan’s largest provincial park — drawn by its natural beauty and outdoor recreational opportunities.

Our Visit to Prince Albert National Park

Prince Albert National Park is a vast and beautiful wilderness area located about 200 kilometers north of Saskatoon. Even though it’s named after the city of Prince Albert, the park’s main entrance is actually 80 kilometers further north. Once you’re in, it feels like stepping into another world—quiet, wild, and full of life.

The only community within the park is the small hamlet of Waskesiu Lake, found on the southern shore of the lake that shares its name. It’s a cozy little place with a few shops and cafes—nothing fancy, but charming in its simplicity.

The park covers nearly 4,000 square kilometers, with elevations ranging from 488 meters in the west to 724 meters in the east. It’s a great representation of Canada’s southern boreal forest, and you really feel that wild, untamed energy as you explore.

There are several large lakes in the park—Waskesiu, Kingsmere, and Crean are the biggest. Wildlife is everywhere, and it’s not uncommon to spot black bears, timber wolves, moose, coyotes, deer, elk, and even woodland caribou if you’re lucky. One of the most amazing things about this park is the herd of more than 400 free-ranging plains bison—the only herd left in its original natural range in Canada, living side by side with predators like wolves and caribou.

The park is full of scenic drives and trails. One of our favorites is The Narrows Road, which follows Waskesiu Lake’s southern shoreline. It’s dotted with viewpoints and picnic spots, and it ends at a peaceful, quiet area called The Narrows. Another beautiful route is Lakeview Drive (also known as Scenic Route 263), which takes you past smaller lakes like Namekus, Trappers, and Sandy (Halkett) Lake, and connects to lots of trails.

If you’re heading to Kingsmere Lake, take Highway 264, which leads to the Kingsmere River. From there, there’s a trail with a railway portage—a neat little system to help move canoes to the lake.

Camping in the park is great, though bush camping isn’t allowed. We usually stay at the Red Deer Campground. Like most parks, it’s supposed to be booked online—but we’ve learned during our travels in the USA and Canada sofar that even when the website says it’s fully booked, we’ve often just shown up and found open spots.

Bears and Wildlife Safety

The biggest risk comes from leaving any food or scraps behind. Bears have a keen sense of smell and will tear up your campsite searching for more food if they detect any. It is illegal to feed any animals, no matter how cute they may seem, because this encourages dangerous behavior.

Also, never approach deer or elk, as they may feel threatened and charge at you. While bear and other animal attacks are rare, they can be prevented by following all safety instructions provided when visiting National and Provincial Parks.

Emma Lake is a scenic recreational lake situated near the southern edge of the boreal forest, approximately 45 kilometers north of Prince Albert, Saskatchewan. It lies southeast of Prince Albert National Park and is composed of three main sections connected by narrow straits.

The northern section is largely encompassed by Great Blue Heron Provincial Park and includes Fairy Island Wildlife Refuge, as well as the small community of Okema Beach. The southern section features Munsons and Sunset Bays and is home to several communities, including Emma Lake, Guise Beach, and Sunnyside Beach.

Saskatoon

Our main reason for visiting Saskatoon was to reconnect with Dolly Russel, whom we originally met in Australia. At the time, she was visiting her daughter Staci — our friend and neighbor in Australia — along with her son Cameron and granddaughter Martina.

Saskatoon is the largest city in Saskatchewan, with a population of around 320,000. It is beautifully situated along the South Saskatchewan River, which provides the city with scenic riverbank parks that are popular among locals and visitors alike. Known as both “The Paris of the Prairies” and “The City of Bridges,” Saskatoon boasts nine river crossings that connect its vibrant neighborhoods.

The city spreads east and west in charming, walkable neighborhoods filled with artisanal shops and inviting restaurants. One of Saskatoon’s cultural gems is Wanuskewin Heritage Park, which showcases over 6,000 years of First Nations history and reflects the enduring prairie hospitality of the region.

The weather in Saskatoon is famously unpredictable, often reminding me of Melbourne’s “four seasons in one day.” However, the winters here are long and harsh, with frost sometimes arriving as late as June and returning as early as August.

Sports play a big role in life here, especially the passion for the Saskatchewan Roughriders, the local Canadian Football League team. Fans proudly display their “Rider Pride,” often showing up to games wearing watermelons on their heads, turning the matches into lively celebrations. Hockey is equally important in Saskatchewan, with cities like Prince Albert, Moose Jaw, Saskatoon, Swift Current, and Regina hosting teams in the Western Hockey League, the highest level of junior hockey in the world. Matches are fiercely competitive and a thrilling spectacle for fans.

We were told that Lloydminster is the traditional homeland of the Plains Cree, Dene, Wood Cree Saulteaux, and Métis peoples. The city is unique because it straddles the border between two provinces—Saskatchewan and Alberta—and is governed as a single municipality by both.

As we travelled along the Yellowhead Highway (Saskatchewan Highway 16), we passed through Lloydminster from East to West, crossing between both provinces. Near downtown, we stopped at the four 30-metre survey markers, erected in 1994 to celebrate our city’s distinctive bi-provincial status. (Saskatchewan and Alberta)

Living in Lloydminster means experiencing some special legal and practical arrangements. For example, while most of Saskatchewan stays on Central Standard Time all year and doesn’t observe daylight saving time, Alberta does. To keep the city’s clocks in sync, our charter allows you to follow Alberta’s daylight saving schedule on both sides of the border. So, during winter, the city observe Mountain Standard Time, the same as Alberta, which means they are an hour behind the rest of Saskatchewan.

3. Video Clips

A. QUEBEC

B. ONTARIO

C. MANITOBA

D. SASKATCHEWAN