Central USA.
North Dakota, South Dakota, Nebraska, Colorado, Oklahoma, Kansas, Iowa, Arkansas, Minnesota and Missouri
1. GENERAL INFORMATION
2. Blogs Central USA
3, Video Clips Central USA
1. General Information Central USA (UNDER CONSTRUCTION)
2. BLOGS CENTRAL USA 2023
PART 1. SOUTH DAKOTA Mt Rushmore to Northern Black Hills
PART 2. SOUTH DAKOTA NORTHERN BLACK HILLS to BADLANDS NATIONAL PARK
PART 3. SOUTH DAKOTA, NEBRASKA, ENROUTE TO COLORADO.
PART 4. COLORADO, Rocky Mountains
PART 5. COLORADO, Glenwood Springs to Utah Border
PART 6. SOUTHWEST COLORADO, 2023, Entering from Canyonlands Nat Park (UTAH)
PART 7. SOUTH WEST COLORADO 2024, Entering from Kansas
PART 8. OKLAHOMA (ROUTE 66)
PART 9. KANSAS (ROUTE 66)
PART 10. KANSAS, Not included Route 66.
SOUTH DAKOTA
PART 1. SOUTH DAKOTA
Tourism is South Dakota’s second-largest industry, and Mount Rushmore is the state’s top tourist attraction.
We entered South Dakota via the Black Hills from New Castle. The Black Hills contain a mix of National and State parks, monuments, memorials, and scenic byways. This area in the middle of the vast prairie has become a centre of creation. Most known are Mount Rushmore and Crazy Horse, with 2 of the greatest sculptors in the USA. Gutzon Borglum (Mt Rushmore) and the Polish orphan Korczak Ziolkowski (Crazy Horse memorial)
Amid the Hills lies Custer State Park, the great wildlife refuge where 1,700 buffalo roam free, and the famous Needles highway. The Needles highway is not passable for vehicles over 3 meters in height or 2.2 meters wide, hence we turned around and continued to Crazy Horse Memorial just 10KM north of Custer.
Crazy Horse Memorial
Crazy Horse Memorial is a beautiful and unique monument in the Black Hills of South Dakota. The memorial is a living tribute to the Native American people and a beacon of hope for the future. This continually evolving sculpture and surrounding cultural centre is a must-see destination. It has been 75 years since the first blast began to reveal the likeness of Lakota leader Crazy Horse in the granite on Thunderhead Mountain in southwestern South Dakota. His name was Henry Standing Bear. He took up arms against the United States federal government to fight against encroachment by white American settlers on Native American territory and to preserve the traditional way of life of the Lakota people. Continuing the progress on the world’s largest sculpture, engineered by the great sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski, Crazy Horse Memorial is being carved out of a mountain of rock and according to our tour guide will be at least another 15 years before it is completed. The sculpture is higher than the Washington Monument, Larger than the Giza Pyramid in Egypt and all 4 heads at Mt Rushmore could fit inside the head of Crazy Horse when finished.
Unable to stay overnight in the park we camped just outside the gate and had a view of the nightly lightshow from a distance. The laser-light show effectively turns the mountainside into a giant 160-meter-wide screen performing a spectacular display. The Crazy Horse Memorial honours the Native Americans, and “Legends in Light” dramatizes the story of the rich heritage, living cultures and contributions by Native Americans to the USA society.
MT RUSHMORE
Over two million people visit Mount Rushmore each year.
America’s Shrine of Democracy, Mount Rushmore National Memorial features the 18-meter height of four great American presidents—George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt, and Abraham Lincoln, carved into the rugged granite mountainside in the Black Hills of South Dakota. These four U.S. Presidents represent the birth, growth, development, and preservation of the USA according to the guide. (Not everyone agreed?)
The sculpture was designed by sculptor Gutzon Borglum, and he called it the Shrine of Democracy. It took from 1927 to 1941 to build. Mount Rushmore National Memorial is one of the most iconic landmarks in the United States and has been on our bucket list for years. In fact, we have a sticker printed on our motorhome. The Mount Rushmore National Memorial represents a national treasure. Symbolizing the ideals of freedom and democracy, it is a tribute to four presidents: George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln and their invaluable contributions to the USA.
The 4 presidents, who were they?
George Washington Born 1732 died 1799 George Washington led the colonists in the American Revolutionary War to win independence from Great Britain. He was the father of the new country and laid the foundation of American democracy.
Thomas Jefferson Born 1743 Died 1826 Thomas Jefferson was the primary author of the Declaration of Independence, a document which inspires democracies around the world. He also purchased the Louisiana Territory from France in 1803 which doubled the size of what is now the USA.
Theodore Rooseveld Born 1858 died 1919 Theodore Roosevelt provided leadership when America experienced rapid economic growth as it entered the 20th Century. He was instrumental in negotiating the construction of the Panama Canal, linking the east and the west.
Abraham Lincoln Born 1809 died 1865 Abraham Lincoln held the USA together during its greatest trial, the Civil War. He believed his most sacred duty was the preservation of the union. It was his firm conviction that slavery must be abolished.
Mount Rushmore National Memorial represents not only the past, but also a promise for the future. When entering the park you walk past the flags of all 50 states, one district, three territories and two commonwealths of the United States of America.
After we left Crazy Horse Memorial and Mt Rushmore, we could not stop thinking of all the hardship and the human history surrounding the Black Hills area. I reminded us on the hardship the aboriginals endured when white man took over the land in the early 1900’s in Australia.
There was some controversy. Originally the local historian wanted the faces of American west heroes, such as Lewis and Clark, Buffalo Bill Cody and Lakota Chief Crazy Horse. And the controversy continues today as the land was taken from the Sioux Indians in the 1870’s. Despite a court ruling in 1980 that all the US Government had to do is compensate them $102 million USA, the Sioux refused the money, and they demand the return of the land. This conflict continues as of today.
PART 2. Northern Black Hills to Badlands National Park.
South Dakota is a located in the Northern Central Region of the USA. It is also part of the Great Plains. South Dakota is named after the Sioux Native American Tribe. (Dakota)
Eastern South Dakota is home to most of the state’s population, and the area’s fertile soil is used to grow a variety of crops. West of the Missouri River, ranching is the predominant agricultural activity, but the economy is more dependent on tourism and defence spending.
Once we left Mt Rushmore we arrived in the Northern Part of the Black Hills.
The northern Part of the Black Hills is like stepping into a movie and meeting old west legends (Bonanza comes to mind) Deadwood is a classic example. This 1870 goldrush town is today a National Historic landmark. Deadwood at the time a tiny gold camp boomed into a town that played by its own rules that attracted outlaws, gamblers, and gunslingers along with the gold seekers. The discovery of gold in 1876 made Deadwood grow from a Tiny gold camp to a busy town with its saloon girls, gambling, and a whole lot of gun slinging, it became the birthplace of the real Wild West.
From 1876 until the 1980s, prostitution was Deadwood’s “not so little secret”. Miners were so happy to see the prostitutes roll into town that they lined the streets and clapped as the wagon passed by. After that, prospecting and prostitution went hand and hand in Deadwood. In fact, an entire city block was occupied by nothing but brothels.
Today Deadwood has become a tourist town with still lots of history mixed with hotels and casinos.
I Overlander directed us to a casino just outside town but as with so many I overlander sites in the USA it was full of huge trailers and motorhomes aircon and generators blasting and since this year the Casino decided to charge 50USD per night. Reason given was that local RV Parks (most look like converted carparks) complained about loosing business. We decided to follow the track to the top of the mountain and found a great little bush camp in the National Forest with an amazing view over the valley and Deadwood. While sitting around the fire we were waiting for Horse Cartright (Bonanza) to join us.
After a few nights we left our amazing bush camp and continued our journey to the next destination Badlands National Park.
BADLANDS NATIONAL PARK
Badlands National Park is a natural beauty and geologic unique area. The rugged canyons, towering spires, and colourful rock formations create an awe-inspiring landscape that changes in colour all day long.
The park has lots of mixed-grass prairie where Black footed ferret, Black tailed prairie dog, Elk, Mule deer, Rattlesnakes, Swift fox, White tailed deer, Bison, Bighorn sheep, and Coyotes roam.
LOTS OF HISTORY
Like Mt Rushmore in the mid-1800, the USA assured the Sioux Indians that the Badlands shall forever be their property. But in 1889, this promise (treaty) was broken, and the Badlands were confiscated by the United States and unilaterally incorporated into a national park. In 1980, the U.S. Supreme Court awarded compensation to the Sioux Indians for the promises made in 1868 (treaty), but the Sioux did not accept the money they wanted their land back. Today the South Unit is being managed between National Parks and the Oglala Lakota tribe.
The South side of the park is entirely on Tribal Trust land, for the use and benefit of the tribal members of the Oglala Sioux Tribe.
The movies Dances with the Wolves and Thunder Heart were partially filmed in Badlands National Park. Here you also find the site of the ghost dances in 1890, and Red Shirt Table the highest point in the park.
We are so glad we visited Badlands National Park. After 3 days bush camping on the cliffs just North of the Park we decided to camp one more night but this time on the southside of the park where we were able to drive the tracks in and found a great spot between the rock formations around 5KM from the main road.
PART 3, South Dakota, Crossing Nebraska,
Enroute 3 major stops
- Pine Ridge Indian Reservation.
- Smith Lake for some R&R. This hidden gem was highly recommended by the locals.
- Scott’s Bluff National Monument
PINE RIDGE INDIAN RESERVATION
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After 4 amazing days in Badlands National Park, we continued south to the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation. This reservation is mostly located in South Dakota and a small part in Nebraska. It is one of the largest Indian reservations in the USA consisting of around 8990 sq kilometres. Sadly, it is also one of the poorest in the USA. We are told around 25000 people live in the reservation. Located at the southern end of the Badlands National Park, this area is part of the mixed grass prairie a transition zone between the short and tall grass prairies. All this is part of the great plains.
First town we stopped was Porcupine population 1000 it is the unofficial capital of the unrecognized Republic of Lakotah. About 31% of all families live below the poverty line. It is also home to the famous nonprofit radio station KILI 90.1 FM broadcasting Latoka music in the Great Sioux Nation. It started broadcasting in 1983 as the first American Indian-owned radio station in the United States.
Today the village of wounded knee ( remember the song; WE ARE ALL WOUNDED AT WOUNDED KNEE) has a population of around 450 people and is located within the Pine Ridge Reservation. The location of the Wounded Knee National Historic Landmark was the exact location of the 1890 massacre. And is now a National Historic Landmark listed as “Wounded Knee Battlefield.” Unfortunately, the landmark and cemetery suffer from neglect, and it is a shame the owners of the land do not provide regular maintenance. We declined to give a donation advising them to start cleaning up and maintaining the area first, before we would consider donating as it does not appear the money is used for the upkeep of the cemetery and Historic site.
PINE RIDGE HISTORY, (WOUNDED KNEE)
In 1874 George Amstrong Custer led the U.S. Army, to Pine Ridge, its mission was to look for suitable locations for a fort, find a route to the southwest, and to investigate the potential for gold mining. After the discovery of gold was made public, miners began invading Sioux Territory. As more settlers and gold miners encroached upon the Black Hills, the Government decided it had to acquire the land from the Sioux. The negotiations failed, as the Sioux resisted giving up what they considered sacred land. The U.S. resorted to military force.
In 1876 the U.S. Congress decided to open the Black Hills to development and break up the Great Sioux Reservation. In 1877, 31,000 km2 of the Black Hills became available for sale to private interests. In 1889, Pine Ridge was established.
Seeking some hope for improving their terrible living conditions, including hunger and starvation due to the loss of land in their reservation in the late 1880s, the Lakota responded to their prophet who promised the disappearance of the white man and a return of native lands and buffalo during rites and dances. These rites were called Ghost dances, this became a real issue and scared the white settlers and led to federal military intervention. This led to the first major conflict in 1890 between the native Americans and the Federal Government.
WOUNDED KNEE MASSACRE (Remember the song “we are all wounded at wounded knee”
The U.S. Army stopped the Ghost Dance movement, on December 14, 1890. People fled the reservation but surrendered on the night of December 28. The group was surrounded and disarmed when a scuffle broke out over a rifle. A shot went off within the group of struggling men, and, from close range, the soldiers, fired into the crowd killing many of them instantly. Those who fled were pursued, and some were killed miles from the camp. Although the total number of Native people who died during the Wounded Knee Massacre is unknown, 150–300 men, women, and children were killed by U.S. troops.
146 men, women, and children were buried by the U.S. Army in a mass grave soon after the massacre. At least 28 U.S. soldiers were killed.
The second conflict happened in 1973.
On February 27, 1973, 200 members of the American Indian Movement led by Russel Means and Dennis Banks
Occupied the reservation village of Wounded Knee by force, and declared it declared it the Independent, stating they would stay until the U.S. federal government met AIM’s demands for a change in tribal leaders, review of all treaties made with Native peoples, and an investigation into the poor treatment of Native Americans. It did not take long before the village was surrounded by federal marshals, and a siege started. It took 2.5 months before American Indian Movement surrendered (May 8) and left wounded knee in exchange for a promise of negotiations with the federal government.
I remember this well as the band Redbone in 1973 had major hit in Europe with the song WE WERE ALL WOUNDED AT WOUNDED KNEE. This song was made as a tribute to the massacre in 1890 but also the 2.5-month standoff in 1973 between the American Indian Movement and the federal authorities. In the USA, this song was withheld from release due to the song’s controversy and a sore subject it was also banned from many radio stations in the USA.
lots more controversy.
- In 1942 the federal government took privately held Pine Ridge Indian Reservation land owned by tribal members to establish the Badlands Bombing Range. 125 families were evicted.
- on June 26, 1975, the reservation was the site of an armed confrontation between AIM activists and the FBI and their allies, which became known as the ‘Pine Ridge Shootout’.
- On February 24, 1976, the body of Anna Aquash, the most prominent woman in American Indian Movement was found in the far northeast corner of the Pine Ridge Reservation. Missing since December 1975, she had been shot execution-style.
- Alcoholism among residents has been a continuing problem in the life of the reservation since its founding.
NEBRASKA
From the village of wounded knee, we crossed into the state of Nebraska where we camped for a few days on the shore of remote lake Smith with no-one around. Nebraska Wildlife Management Area maintain this area. Lake Smith is a beautiful place to relax and for 2.5 days we were the only campers.
From Lake Smith we continued south towards Nebraska’s panhandle winch forms the boundary with Colorado. As one of the central states of the United States, Nebraska was primarily a stopover point for those migrating to the north and west as well as to the settlement and mining frontiers of the mountain and Pacific regions in the early 19th century. Much of the land is prairie, driving North to south we constantly drove around the 1300-meter mark. Nebraska is located on some of the most important arteries linking east and west.
The Great Plains region, occupying most of western Nebraska, is characterized by treeless plains.
We were warned about Violent thunderstorms, Hail and Tornadoes in Nebraska and did we know it. While on our way to Scott’s Bluff National Monument we had to outrun a huge thunder and hailstorm. This stopped us doing the detour to car henge Nebraska’s answer to Stonehenge. Carhenge is a replication of Stonehenge, England’s ancient mystical alignment of stones that chart the sun and moon phases. Instead of being built with large standing stones, as is the case with the original Stonehenge, Carhenge is formed from vintage American automobiles, all covered with grey spray paint. Pictures used are not mine.
Before looking for an overnight spot we first visited Scott’s Bluff National Monument Towering nearly 300 meters above the North Platte River, Scott’s Bluff has served as a landmark for Native Americans, Pioneers, and emigrants in the early 1900’s.
The monument is located on the SW side of the city of Scottsbluff, and it rises high above the plains so there is no need to worry about missing it. There are five major outcroppings on the bluffs, known as Dome Rock, Crown Rock, Sentinel Rock, Eagle Rock, and Saddle Rock. Over 250,000 emigrants passed by Scott’s Bluff between 1843 and 1869 all going west. It was the second-most referred to landmark on the Emigrant Trails in pioneer journals and diaries. The 15-minute video presentation at the visitor centre is a must see and explain the history of the opening up the west of the US, the Oregon Trial, Pony Express Trial, and California Trial
Not realizing at the time that we would be hit by another storm while at the Walmart in Scott’s Bluff. Hail, gale-force 60mph wind gusts and huge thunderstorm, the local radio advising all to stay indoor forecasting trees and roofs to come off and vehicles being damaged by hail. Lucky for us we had no damage.
After leaving Scott’s Bluff in Nebraska, our first stop in Colorado was Loveland. A neat little town on the foot of the Rocky Mountains National Park.
COLORADO
PART 4. Colorado, Rocky Mountains,
After leaving Scott’s Bluff in Nebraska, our first stop in Colorado was Loveland. A neat little town on the foot of the Rocky Mountains National Park.
Colorado is a state in the Mountain West region of the USA. It includes most of the Southern Rocky Mountains, as well as the western edge of the Great Plains. estimated the population of Colorado is around 6 million.
Colorado has borders with Wyoming, Utah, Nebraska, Kansas, New Mexico, and Oklahoma. It also touches Arizona in the far southwest at the four corners. (More in the Southwest Colorado blog.
Since the late 1990s, Colorado has been the site of many major mass shootings all well documented by international media. Including the infamous Columbine High School Massacre in 1999, where 2 people killed 12 students and one teacher. The incident has since spawned many copycat incidents in 2012 12 people shot and killed in a movie theatre in Aurora. March 22, 2021, 10 people killed in a supermarket in Boulder, in 2022 5 people killed in a nightclub in Colorado Springs. Who said Mexico or Africa are dangerous!!!!!
The Rocky Mountains within Colorado contain 58 peaks that are 4,267 m or higher. Only small parts of the Colorado Rockies are snow-covered year-round. Much of the alpine snow melts by mid-August.
The Rocky Mountains, locally known as the Rockies, cover 5 states New Mexico, Colorado, Utah, Wyoming, Montana, Idaho and crossing into Canada in the North.
The main river in Colorado is the Colorado River which begins in north central Colorado and ends 2330 kilometres downstream at the Gulf of California. The river is fed by snow melting in the Rocky Mountains and passes through seven U.S. states and part of Mexico. The Colorado River is the home of the Hoover Dam. The Hoover Dam is in Black Canyon and helps control the flow of the Colorado River.
After leaving Scott’s Bluff in Nebraska, our first stop in Colorado was Loveland. A neat little town on the foot of the Rocky Mountains National Park. Just a few kilometres from the mountain village of Estes Park, we entered Rocky Mountain National Park. Great scenery, more than 100 soaring mountain peaks over 3000 meters, alpine lakes, and abundant wildlife showcase nature at its best. Highest mountain peak in the park is Longs Peak at 4320 meters high. This amazing park has, 725 kilometres of rivers and streams, nearly 600km of walking trials and 150 lakes.
The headwaters of the Colorado River are in the park’s northwestern region. All this combined results in lots of scenic vistas. Rocky Mountain National Park is known for 2 famous drives, the trial ridge road between Estes Park and Grand Lake (80km) and the Bear Lake Road a dead end 15 km trip to Bear Lake. Driving across the park we reached 3787 meters at the highest point on the Trial Ridge Road. (Milner Pass while crossing the continental divide)
This park like Glacier NP requires you to obtain a timed entry pass online.
Trail Ridge Road connects the entrances in Grand Lake and Estes Park. We entered at the Beaver Meadows Gate. This was on the East side driving west to Grand Lake through many hairpins turns. Many turnouts allowed us to enjoy the amazing scenery. Immediate after entering the Park another must do road is the detour to Bear Lake.
The history of Rocky Mountain National Park began when the Indians travelled along the trial ridge road. Settlers began arriving in the mid-1800s, displacing the Native Americans who mostly left the area voluntarily by 1860, while others were moved to reservations by 1878. Rocky Mountains National Park is one of the highest National Parks in the USA.
We left Rocky Mountain National Park on the south side and bush camped in the National Forest west of Lake Grant. From here we continued to the ski areas we visited in our younger days, Copper Mountain, Vail, Beaver Creek, and Aspen.
COPPER MOUNTAIN
While Copper Mountain is best known as a world-class ski area and snowboard park, it is a pedestrian-only village and in winter it offers, skiing, snowboarding, snowmobile tours, dogsledding and nightlife. In summer Mountain Biking offering long rides into the Rockies to some of the best lift-service single track in Colorado. A Bike Haul is offered for those seeking more of a downhill adventure. Experience golfing with the stunning Ten Mile Range backdrop. All this, and year-round events such as live music, culture, art, and food festivals. Copper Mountain hosted Cup skiing in 1976 Slalom, Giant Slalom, and downhill. Copper mountain also has a 2000sq meter indoor ski and snowboard area dedicated to training.
BEAVER CREEK
It has the ambiance of a modern resort coupled with the unhurried feel of an alpine village, gorgeous Rocky Mountain views make this town very attractive to visitors from all around the world. Beaver Creek is a regular host of world cup events, especially early in the season. The valley that houses Beaver Creek Resort lies just south of Avon and was first settled in 1881. Many early pioneers moved to the area under President Abraham Lincoln’s Homestead Act. It took from the 1950s (Earl Eaton) and Pete Seibert (1970’s) till 1980 when an Oil Tycoon decided to develop the village. Beaver Creek opened as a ski resort in 1981. Today it is an upmarket high-class resort offering all the facilities you can imagine and heated footpaths in winter. Walking in Beaver Creek you find that the work force is from around the world (backpackers, seasonal workers and in winter ski instructors) Beaver Creek is a ski resort with another adorable village at the base. It has a full range of restaurants, from casual to fine dining, a skating rink in the main square in winter, and hotels.
VAIL
The ski resort town of Vail is one of the best places to visit in Colorado in winter but it’s also a pleasant place to enjoy at any time of year. When it comes to skiing, this is one of the best ski resorts in Colorado with seemingly endless runs for all levels. Clary and I skied Vail, Beaver Creek, and Aspen many years ago. This is a high-end resort with luxury hotels, fine dining, and designer stores. Vail is a Tourist Mecca. Vail is home to around 5500 permanent residents and at least 6000 parttime residents. Add to these another 5000 seasonal workers during the 2 seasons. According to the proud locals Vail with its world-renowned skiing, diverse shops and restaurants, luxurious accommodations, year-round events, friendly locals, and breath-taking mountain views, is one of the best villages to live in and they think the finest resort destination in the world. The Vail economy relies heavily on tourism. The main attraction in winter is skiing, snowboarding, snowmobiling, and snowshoeing and you can party all night long. (Après Ski) In Summer golf, 25 kilometres of walking tracks, nearly weekly special events, music festivals, cultural events, and film festivals.
From Vail we continued south to Leadville the third highest city in the USA at 3096 meters (Alma and Montezuma are the highest cities in the USA) This road is also called the scenic byway and travels all the way to Aspen. Big skies and majestic views soaring mountains over 4250 meters enroute on this amazing tourist route. Lots of little historic towns and developed mountain villages such as Breckenridge and Aspen with 5-star amenities. The road crosses the Continental Divide three times, including Tennessee Pass and Independence Pass. After the historic town of Minturn, we crossed the Red cliff bridge and continued to Leadville exploring the footsteps of Native Americans and those who came to find their riches in silver mining town of Leadville. Leadville was a boomtown with an economy originally built on silver. Once the richest town on earth, the downtown is lined with well-preserved Victorian buildings now converted to shops, restaurants, galleries, and offices. Much of the town is a designated National Historic Landmark District.
The town of Twin Lakes is nestled below Mt. Elbert, Colorado’s highest mountain at 4380 meters, and Mt. Massive at 4372 meters. Named for the two serene lakes. The two lakes in this valley were formed by glacial activity but were later enlarged to provide water storage for Colorado’s Front Range. There are miles of shoreline to explore. The lakes’ deep water is stocked every year with brown, rainbow, and cutthroat trout, which makes for excellent fishing. In the winter, when the lakes freeze over, Twin Lakes becomes one of Leadville’s most popular ice fishing destinations. Great bush camping on the lake shore, or the surrounding mountains offering great bush camping with amazing views.
After a day and a half at Twin Lakes we continued over Independence Pass on State Highway 82 and into Aspen. Independence Pass starts at 2800 meters and climbs to 3665 meters at the summit, which is surrounded by Peaks of 4000 meters. It’s a historic mountain pass that leads up and over the Continental Divide and leads straight into Aspen. Follow Castle Creek Road to the historic Ashcroft Ghost Town This historic silver mining town, founded in the 1880s, and in 1883 had a population of 2000 was a thriving mining community until it shut down in 1885, leaving just 100 people in town who eventually all abandoned town leaving the place frozen in time.
ASPEN
This historic former mining town has blossomed into one of the most high-end, charming, boutique small towns in the USA. The best things to do in Aspen typically take place outside both in summer and winter. You can catch a scenic gondola right from the heart of downtown that will take you up to the top of Ajax Mountain at 75.00AUD PFFFF in any season for the world’s best skiing and hiking.
Aspen itself is steeped in mining history. The architecture of the buildings tells the story. Within these historic facades you’ll find everything from designer labels to local boutiques. Chic hotels, restaurants, art galleries, bakeries, Night clubs, Bars, sidewalk cafés, outdoor bars and more. Aspen is a boutique destination and is home to some of the leading and most luxurious hotels in the world.
It does not get more vibrant than downtown Aspen. No matter what time of the year, this hot spot is one of the best places to see and be seen. At night Aspen has amazing entertainment and you could be rubbing shoulders with the world’s most famous people. Just in case you like to live in the vibrant tourist town of Aspen the median sales price of a single-family home in 2021 in Aspen was $9.5 million.
Typically, the town is home to only 7,000 residents, but that number quadruples dramatically during winter and summer, when the historic streets flood with adventurers and lovers of good food, shopping, and lots of entertainment.
Another must do is the John Denver Sanctuary named for the American singer who wrote Rocky Mountain High. Many of John Denver’s most famous lyrics by having them carved into boulders. If you happen to be in Aspen in October, the sanctuary hosts a celebration to pay tribute to the late artist. The event features musical performances, readings, festivities, and other ways to highlight the life and career of the artist who felt so at home in Aspen.
We left Aspen for our last stop at Glenwood Springs before entering Utah. We followed the track up under the gondola and found a great campsite overlooking the valley. Why pay 70USD to stay at a RV park what offers next to nothing.
Till Next Time from Utah when we visit Moab, Arches and Canyonlands National Parks
PART 5. Glenwood Springs (Colorado) to Utah Border
PART 6, SOUTHWEST COLORADO, Entering from Canyonlands Nat Park (UTAH)
The park sits on an altitude of more than 2600 meters. Mesa Verde is known for its hundreds of cliff dwellings, a bit comparable to what we have seen in Mali (Africa) in the Dogon Area.
PART 7 SOUTH WEST COLORADO 2024, Entering from Kansas
This is our third visit to Colorado while overlanding the USA. In 2023 we covered the Northern and Southwest part of Colorado, this time 2024 we entered from Kansas in the Southeast of Colorado.
Following the Highway of Legends covering the historic routes that have long been travelled among Colorado’s southern foothills. We love Colorado and we understand why Katherine Bates wrote the lyrics to America the beautiful while she at the top of Pikes Peak in Colorado.
The national scenic byway passes through the San Isobel National Forest it is just a shame those Americans are always in such a hurry, it amazes us that on a scenic byway they come past at 65 miles (100 kilometres per hour) towing some humongous spaceship (RV) with up to 3 axels, 3 air conditioning units. PFFFFF.
We stopped for lunch with a view of the snowcapped Spanish Peaks. the Spanish Peaks are 2 peaks. West Peak at 4020 meters and the East Peak at 3850 meters high.
Following the road to Alamosa driving through small towns, we passed Aquilar also known as little Chicago, Al Capone was known for his crimes in Chicago using Aquilar to hide out. Heading west we passed the historic town of Cokedale. The town itself was built for the miners’ families, staying in place even after the mine left town. Thus, making it one of the most intact mining camps in Colorado.
Cuchara Village is A great example of a turn-of-the-century Colorado mountain town, the picturesque village is surrounded by the San Isabel National Forest. the Dog Bar & Grill, for a good beer and burger a favourite for both locals and tourists alike.
Walsenburg along the Highway of Legends is the historic coal town. Known as the “city built on coal,” Walsenburg gained a reputation as a booming mining community in southern Colorado. We are now in San Luis Valley.
Just 5 kilometres before Alamosa is the national wildlife refuge, on the banks of the Rio Grande.
The town of Alamosa is popular with the weekend warriors and those loving outdoor activities. For us it became the Walmart shopping day, overnight in the Walmart carpark where we met up with fellow Aussie overlanders Chris and Odette for happy hour and exchanging ideas.
Great sand dune National Park
Sand dunes National Park was our next stop to visit North America’s tallest sand dunes, and the varies hot springs. We found a nice spot to camp overnight on BLM land Between the towering mountains at the base Sange de Cristo Mountains. This 45 sq kilometre dune park has the tallest sand dunes in the USA, rising to 250 meters high between the mountains Sangre de Cristo and San Juan up 4300 meters high on one side and the flat, arid scrub-brush of the San Luis Valley on the other. Before we found a place to camp, we drove up to Zapata Falls. The falls were formed when South Zapata Creek wore a groove in the rocks of the Sangre de Cristos mountains, Over thousands of years, the creek has carved a dim, deep and narrow chasm through which water tumbles around 10 meters. In the summer, the falls offer a cool respite; winter temperatures turn them into a giant ice sculpture.
Overnight the weather turned nasty again with strong wind, rain, sleet, and snow.
We left early for our next destination the historic town of Creede.
We followed the 160 to South Fork where we turned North following the Silver Thread Scenic and Historic Byway climbing from 2500 meters to over 3250 meters at the top of Bachelor Loop. The scenic byway offers scenic views and historic towns.
Creede was the last silver boom town in Colorado. The Creede mines operated continuously from 1890 until 1985. The historic mining town of Creede is in a beautiful canyon 8,852 feet up in the San Juan Mountains, near the headwaters of the Rio Grande which flows through the San Juan Mountains and the San Luis Valley on its way to New Mexico, Texas and into the Gulf of Mexico. With more snow forecast we decided to do the Bachelor Loop tour upon arriving instead of the following day. The Loop drives up and around the Creede historic mining district of the area and is accessible with a 4WD vehicle. In fact, the only steep part is in the first 4 kilometres when driving the loop from East to West. The whole district around Creede is full of historic silver mining and ghost towns. The Creede Underground Mining Museum is adjacent to the tour route at the north end of Creede but unfortunately for us was closed.
The Bachelor Loop weaves its way up through the canyon north of Creede climbing under the ragged cliff sides. Passing many mine locations from the 1890s and abandoned ghost towns that once rivalled Creede in size. The loop road has some narrow stretches and steep grades that require caution when driving a truck our size (12000KG) We were advised at the very friendly visitor centre in Creede that the old mine buildings are structurally unsound and dangerous to enter and the mining equipment unsafe to be around. The mine shafts and tunnels are extremely unsafe and are often filled with poisonous and/or explosive gases. So be warned. Halfway our trip it started to snow making the steep hill even more fun.
Overnight we camp on a nice flat spot overlooking the valley, strong winds in the afternoon and snowfall overnight killed our idea of a good campfire.
We back tracked to South Fork and followed the 160 towards Chimney National Park. Unfortunately, the park was closed due to snowfall. With cold weather and slippery roads, we decided to move south and our next destination Aztec in New Mexico.
OKLAHOMA
PART 8 OKLAHOMA (ROUTE 66)
Oklahoma is a state in the central Region of the USA. The name Oklahoma comes from the Choctaw word Okla which means red. We are told 26 native American languages are spoken in Oklahoma and nearly 15% of Oklahomans are American Indians, which is the highest indigenous population of any State in the USA.
The weather is not improving, it’s pouring down rain. Despite descending to around 600 meters the temperature did not reach 7 degrees Celsius.
Oklahoma, is with more than 640 kilometres the longest stretch of Route 66 in any state. Time to get our Kicks on Route 66. We entered Oklahoma from Texas at the state border town of Texola in the west located on the Oklahoma/Texas border. This town has been claimed by both Texas and Oklahoma due to the changes of the state border numerous times. The historic U.S. Route 66 is sometimes known as the Will Rogers Highway after Oklahoma native Will Rogers.
Another forgotten road in Oklahoma, an even older stretch of roadway than Route 66 is called the Ozark Trail that dates to 1913. it connected St Louis, Missouri to both El Paso, Texas and Santa Fe, New Mexico. There are still a few areas in northeast and central Oklahoma where you can drive along historical segments and spot the unique obelisk markers.
In Erick we visited the mural honouring Roger Miller, 11-time grammy winner and country music hall of fame member who wrote pop hits like “King of the road.” The Roger Miller Mural depicts the famous singer-songwriter in five poses and shows a Route 66 road sign in the background.
Elk City
The National Route 66 Museum in Elk City, Oklahoma is a fascinating tribute to the Legendary highway and its influence on American culture and travel. A must do is a photo of the largest Route 66 sign in the world and the Kachina doll outside the museum.
Hydro
Lucille’s Service Station in Hydro, Oklahoma is a cherished Route 66 landmark that reflects the nostalgia of the historic highway. This was run by the famous Lucille Hamons from 1941 till the day she died in 2000.
Calumet
In Calumet we followed the old Route 66 to El Reno, where three 18-feet-tall Muffler Men appear in mural form.
El Reno. We stopped in El Reno to visit the Mother Road Monument. After last night’s tornado warning we realized that we arrived in Tornado Alley. El Reno was struck by tornado’s in 2011 and 2013. Nearly 200 people were injured and 9 people were killed. The windspeed was measured at 472 kilometres per hour.
Arcadia is located 23kilomters north of Oklahoma City on Historic Route 66. And basically, is a suburb of Oklahoma City. For us the reason to stop was twofold: we were looking for a place to stay overnight in Arcadia, and POPS with its massive selection of over 700 varieties of soda pop, and the huge 33-meter-high soda bottle outside. It was a great place to stay overnight. Unfortunately, here we bumped into the streetlight in the carpark, while setting up for the night. The following morning, we visited the Round Barn built in 1898. This unique and magnificently restored historic round barn is a testament to the enduring spirit of America’s Mother Road.
Stroud. The town was devastated by the 1999 Tornado. It destroyed the town’s 53-store Tanger Outlet Center, as well as a distribution Center owned by foodservice company Sygma. Neither of these facilities were rebuilt; the resulting loss of 800 jobs caused a significant amount of economic distress to the small town.
Stroud is one of only two Oklahoma locations with an original Ozark Trail obelisk. Obelisks are tall, four-sided, narrow structures topped with a pyramid-shaped stone and display the nearest town name and distance to each.
The Rock Cafe in Stroud is constructed from local rock and bricks and is a historic Route 66 landmark renowned for its small-town charm and mouthwatering homemade food.
Sapulpa‘s history is steeped in a lively mix of Native American soul – the town is named after Chief Sapulpa, a Lower Creek Indian from Alabama – and the early days of oil. By now we had seen enough Car museums, so we stopped for lunch and continued.
Tulsa is the second most populous city in Oklahoma; this city was historically based on the oil economy. It used to have the nick name Oil Capital of the World. Today the city has diversified, and leading sectors include finance, aviation, telecommunications and technology. Big cities are not what we normally visit however Tulsa has a few attractions we wanted to visit.
The Golden Driller Statue is colossal. Standing proudly at 23 meters high, it represents Oklahoma’s rich oil heritage.
The retired Frisco locomotive travelled between Oklahoma City and St. Louis.
The Route 66 Half Archway when arriving in Tulsa is another impressive landmark that stands as a symbol of the enduring spirit of the Mother Road. And the Cyrus Avery Centennial Plaza commemorates the visionary leader and “Father of Route 66,” Cyrus Avery. He played an important role in the creation and development of Route 66.
The Blue Whale in Catoosa is worth the stop for a picture and a walk into the mouth of the whale. This area was controlled by the Cherokee Nation in the 19th century. Another town in the path of a tornado which left 7 people dead.
Cartoosa is one of the largest inland seaports in the USA, linking Tulsa to the Arkansas River and the Mississippi River and eventually to the Gulf of Mexico.
Via Claremore we arrived in Oologah the town where Will Rogers was born in 1879. He was a Cherokee Indian, a cowboy and a movie star, an entertainer. He became a Broadway actor, a writer, philosopher, and comedian. During his career in the 1920s and 1930s he made 71 movies and wrote over 4,000 newspaper columns. He was a world-famous star. He died in an airplane crash in Alaska in 1935. Route 66 was dedicated to him.
This town, also part of Tornado Valley, was destroyed by a tornado in 1991. We spent 3 days on lake Oologah and enjoyed meeting many of the locals.
Chelsea. The town was the site of the Chelsea-Alluwe Oil Field, which produced a significant amount of oil from 1910 until the early 1920s, before it played out. Will Rogers attended a subscription school on Cherokee Land in Chelsea. Our interest in the town was Ed Galloways Totem Pole Park. This park boosts a collection of giant concrete totem poles created by Ed Galloway. It is home to the world’s largest Concrete Totem pole. Totem Pole Park has been a Route 66 landmark since 1948 and is an important example of post-WW2 folk art.
Vinita. This is the second oldest town in Oklahoma and shows lots of history and heritage. The historic downtown district has lots of antique and specialty shops and boutiques. Stop at the iconic Clanton’s Café, a Route 66 institution since 1927. Another must stop is the Hi-Way Cafe situated along historic Route 66; this charming diner has been a favorite gathering spot for residents and travellers alike over the years.
Miami is located on the route of the Jefferson Highway. Established in 1915, this road covered more than 3,700 km from Winnipeg in Canada to New Orleans crossing Route 66 in Miami. An important attraction is that Route 66 runs directly through the heart of Miami. The iconic Gateway Sign in Miami standing tall on the Main Street, serves as a visual landmark.
With a deep history as America’s most beloved highway, Route 66 has played a large part in the history of Oklahoma. Miami boasts the longest Main Street on all of Route 66 and is proud to serve as the Gateway into Oklahoma for all those traveling from the East into Miami. Miami is also home of the Miami Tribe of Oklahoma which is named the Modoc Tribe. Just outside of Miami is the last section of the original nine foot wide “Ribbon Road” that is listed as an Oklahoma National Historic Landmark. Although a part of the Historic Highway, this section predates Route 66, having been built in the early 1920s. Legend has it that when the road was built, Oklahoma’s budget was tight, so rather than covering half the mileage, they covered half the width. So, you will understand why they sing, “Life is a Highway.”
Commerce is on Route 66. When that highway was commissioned in 1926, it is the first town or the last when travelling into or out of Oklahoma, or to or from Kansas. Commerce was the site of two notable events. In April 1934, Bonnie and Clyde killed Commerce Constable William C. Campbell and kidnapped police chief Percy Boyd. By May Bonnie and Clyde would both be dead. Allen’s Conoco Fillin’ Station in Commerce is a charming and nostalgic roadside stop that reminded us of a bygone era. Featuring vibrant colours and retro styling It also has several classic vintage Route 66 service stations i.e. the famous Dairy King which use to be the Marathon Oil station.
KANSAS
PART 9 KANSAS (ROUTE 66)
ROUTE 66 In the South East corner of Kansas.
Kansas is in the Central USA. Kansas is named after the Kansas River and the capital city is Topeka. More about Kansas once we return West towards Colorado.
Since we arrived in Texas, we arrived in Tornado Alley. We have been on Tornado watch already 4 times with 2 small tornado’s touching ground in towns not that far from us.
Tornados happen all year round but in the period March to June most likely. And they happen mostly during the hottest part of the day between 4 and 7PM during severe thunderstorms and hailstorms. Tornados rate EF 1 to 5, an EF 5 tornado has winds over 350 kilometres per hour, doing incredible damage to buildings and infrastructure.
The Kansas section of Route 66 is just 20 kilometres long before it enters Missouri.
Baxter Springs is one of only three towns through which Route 66 passes in Kansas. It is a city in Cherokee County. For some this is the American Frontier. In 1835 the Cherokee people were part of 5 civilized tribes forced from the Southeast of the USA to West of the Mississippi River. A trading post was established at the springs. Some Native Americans and European-American settlers began to develop a community around the post. The 19th-century settlers eventually named the city and nearby springs after early settler A. Baxter. He had claimed land about 1850 and built a frontier Pub. In 1926, Baxter Spring downtown main street was designated as part of the Route 66 transcontinental highway connecting Chicago and Los Angeles. The area of Baxter Springs, Kansas, has been inhabited by indigenous peoples since the early 1700s.
Just before entering Riverton from the west, we passed the Rainbow Bridge constructed in 1923. The bridge is still accessible by car even though a newer bridge also runs over Brush Creek. the Route 66 Visitor’s Center unfortunately was closed. The building was built in 1930, the gas station was originally owned by the Independent Oil and Gas Company. The other interesting stop is at the Eisler Brothers Old Riverton Store, open since the 1920s. the owner, also the president of the Kansas Route 66 Association, displays his memorabilia.
Galena is a town located on the short, 20 odd kilometres stretch of Route 66 in Kansas. It is a town with mining roots that boomed during the early 1900s. Route 66 crosses the railway using the old viaduct built in 1923. It is over 200 ft. long and meets the town’s Main Street. The bridge predates Route 66 by three years and was built to carry the Jefferson Highway. At the base of the bridge, to your left is the Muffler Man. This 19-foot tall “muffler man” (which, of course isn’t a muffler man) is called “Frecs”, short for Freckles, after his miner grandfather. It is really big! The building next to it has quite a few eye-catchers like the “Sheriff Car on a Pole”. The car on the top of the pole is a replica of one of Disney-Pixar’s Cars franchise characters, “Sheriff”. The original movie character is a 1949 2-door police car with siren, speaker, and a red rotating gumball light (that lights up at night).
Haunted Staffleback Bordello, in the 1880 was a brothel owned by the Staffleback family. The gabled building which had fallen in disrepair was recently restored. Old Kan-O-Tex service station is the famous “Kan-O-Tex” service station at 119 North Main St. The service station dates to 1934. At one time it was “Little’s Service Station”. It sold a regional brand of gasoline in the states of Kansas, Oklahoma, and Texas, and this gave it its name: Kan-O-Tex.
PART 10. KANSAS, Not included Route 66.
Kansas is located halfway between the Pacific and Atlantic Ocean. It also is home to the geographic centre of 48 states in the USA, near the town of Lebanon. (Not included Alaska and other outlaying states). Nebraska, Missouri, Oklahoma, and Colorado border Kansas. The State gradually rises from east to west. At around 200 meters along the Verdigris River at Coffeyville to 1230 meters at Mount Sunflower near the border with Colorado. While it is the highest point in Kansas, it is the lowest point in Colorado just 800 meters away.
Like Oklahoma and Missouri Kansas is also prone to severe weather, especially in the spring and the early summer. Due to its location at a climatic boundary prone to intrusions of multiple air masses, the state is vulnerable to strong and severe thunderstorms. Some of these storms become severe thunderstorms and these can produce tornadoes. Kansas averages more than 50 tornadoes every year. Not just severe thunderstorms but also large hailstorms are common. Picture below not mine
After Kansas City we stopped briefly in Manhattan, the university city of Kansas followed by the hometown of General Dwight (Ike) Eisenhower, Abilene. Eisenhower grew up in Abilene and became a five-star army general, commander of the World War 2 D-Day operation in Europe (the largest amphibious invasion in history) and later became president of the United States.
With weather becoming poor and cold we decided to continue west and took the I 70 interstate. Today we did Overlanding the American way, (full speed and a long day driving) a quick stop in Colby a western, prairie town full of history, and the city of Hays, larger than Colby but still interesting, before getting of the highway at Oakley.
Oakley has a slogan ” STOP FOR THE LEGEND, STAY FOR THE DAY”. The Birthplace of the Legend of Buffalo Bill, Cody is celebrated with a huge bronze sculpture of Buffalo Bill on his favourite horse aiming at a buffalo.
After leaving Oakley we travelled south towards Scott City stopping at various places of interest. Leaving Oakley, we realized we now entered the wild west country, wide open spaces, small towns, nice little main streets and friendly people who wave at you when passing. This part is called the heartland of America, hardworking farmers, and fun loving people.
Monument Rocks is a series of large chalk formations, rich in fossils, formed approximately 80 million years ago. We did get lost as after 6 kilometres on the well-maintained dirt road we arrived at an T junction without any signs, we turned left, should have turned right. Anyway, the GPS location is N 38º 44.578′ W 100º 76.236′ Monument Rocks was the first landmark chosen by the United States Department of the Interior as a National Natural Landmark in Kansas in 1968. Please note this is privately owned land. The owners allow visitors to visit this wonderful landmark. Please look after the property and please note NO CAMPING. The magnificent large monoliths rise as high as 18 meters high. It was created when the sea receded, and left behind the chalk deposits which, over time, have been eroded by the once much larger Smoky Hill River, wind, and rain. Monument Rocks is part of an area called the Badlands of Kansas with numerous chalk outcroppings in the vicinity including Little Jerusalem area, today collectively known as the “Badlands of Kansas.”
Little Jerusalem Badlands National Park was disappointing and does not look anything like the Badlands National Park we visited in South Dakota. But okay to had a lunch stop overlooking the Niobrara Chalk formation.
At Lake Scott fierce winds, and a mix of rain and snow was enough reason to stop for a few days till the weather system from the Rocky Mountains in Colorado cleared, hence we parked on the shore of the lake. The 1020-acre Scott State Park is a stunning oasis of natural springs and canyons. This state park also includes a 160-acre wildlife area. In all a beautiful setting. Around the park we saw lots of Bisons. All we need now is the weather to clear.
Scott City is a town of just 4000 people, you find several historical sites, one of them being Battle Canyon, the last Indian battle in Kansas.
Dodge City is nicknamed “Queen of the Cow towns”. The town was once considered the Wickedest Little City in America. The city is known for its history as a wild frontier town of the old West. It had saloons, gambling halls, and brothels, including the famous Long Branch Saloon (still operating) and China Doll brothel. Today the city’s pride and heritage bleed into the atmosphere no matter where you go. Fortunately, the hospitality these days is friendlier than it was when gunslingers were frequenting the saloons. The Dodge City Roundup Rodeo is held throughout the year and a major event for the locals. The town blends old with new while keeping with the character of its legendary history. Hit up Dodge City Brewing if you prefer beer to whiskey. Dodge City, Kansas, was once a bustling frontier town where visiting cowboys and locals could get away with just about anything.
We did not visit Greenburg, south east of Dodge City, but on May 4 2007, a 2.7 kilometre wide tornado with winds of 330 kilometres per hour killed 11 people and injured 63 more in Greensburg. The complete city was reduced to rubble.
Syracuse, just 26 kilometres from the Colorado border and just north of the Arkansas River.
The Syracuse Sand Dunes Park is the largest sand dunes park in Kansas and one of the largest in the Midwest. This Sand Park offers 1,300 acres of amazing dunes, rolling hills, bowls, and some fast flat areas that will appeal to those who love to drive in sand. Sand trails have been expanded through the park.
This was the last stop for us in Kansas, and we loved the many small prairie towns all holding so much history. Despite the bad weather we still enjoyed Kansas and if it wasn’t for the weather we would also have visited Atchison the birthplace of Amelia Earhart, the world’s most famous woman aviator. This history-making woman has 2 museums bearing her name. Amelia Earhart Birthplace Museum and the Amelia Earhart Hanger Museum. The other museum we missed was that of the great daredevil Robbie Knievel and Eval Knievel in Topeka. I think the most famous jump Robbie ever did was the jump above the Grand Canyon during a successful 80 meters world record jump in Arizona, on May 20, 1999.
Kansas is a dose of classic America, with its rugged cowboy culture and wide-open prairies.
MISSOURI
PART 11 MISSOURI (ROUTE 66)
Missouri is in the Central Region of the USA; Missouri played a major role in the Westward expansion of the USA. This is memorialized by the Gateway Arch in St Louis.
Coming from the East, Missouri earned the nickname Gateway to the West because it served as a significant departure point for expeditions and settlers heading to the West during the 19th century.
Many other trails began in Missouri, including the Pony Express, Oregon Trail, Santa Fe Trail, and the California Trail. And so the first planning meeting for Route 66 was held in Missouri in April 1926. We also learned that some well-known people are born in Missouri i.e. Chuck Berry, Walt Disney, Brad Pitt, Sheryl Crow, Harry Truman, and Mark Twain. Missouri is also called the Mother of the West and with more than 6,000 caves, it’s no surprise that Missouri is also known as “The Cave State.”
Kansas City and St. Louis are two of the most vibrant cities in the Midwest, with unbeatable music and dining scenes, and plenty of things to do, while road-trip enthusiasts cross the heart of the Show Me State on Route 66 to experience bygone America.
Route 66 is the ultimate American road trip, with lots of roadside attractions, historical buildings, vintage roadside diners, museums, and quirky Route 66 memobirlia. Route 66, known by many as the Mother Road runs the historic road for 3665 kilometres from Santa Monica to Chicago.
ROUTE 66
Carthage is located within the infamous “Tornado Alley” and Japer County has an average of 6 tornado strikes per year. And today yet another Tornado warning.
Not my photo
In Cartage it was time to stock up and visit the Walmart store. It was warm and thunderstorms were looming, there was a tornado watch and possible hail. In Australia we are warned in the event of cyclones but here tornados appear from nowhere
The name: Carthage comes from the stone bluffs along the river that were of a pale colour that reminded the founders of the fabled stone quarries at the North African city of Carthage.
at the Conoco gas station we spotted a sculpture of a weird flying machine. It is the “Crap Duster” created by Lowel Davis. It is based on a manure spreader built by John Deere around 1910-1930.
Like so many Hamburger places on Route 66 the Whistler was famous. So are the many murals and old gas stations.
We found a nice spot in the Robert Talbot Conservation area not far from Springfield.
Springfield, Missouri we are told is the official birthplace of Route 66. As we travelled around Springfield, we did see markers and memorials commemorating Route 66. In April 1926, representatives from various states and communities gathered in Springfield for the first ever planning conference for a national highway system called Route 66. While Springfield’s claim as the birthplace of Route 66 doesn’t mean that the road physically started there, the city’s hosting of this conference marked a pivotal moment in the highway’s inception and planning. Springfield’s vintage Route 66 establishments are preserved along downtown streets and St. Louis Street, east of downtown. The Route 66 Car Museum is the big attraction here, thanks to its collection of more than 70 rare and collectible vintage cars. Nearby are several other route 66 items to check out including an old gas station and a sculpture made from hubcaps.
Red’s Giant Hamburger has its roots trace back to the 1940s when the original establishment opened along Route 66, pioneering the concept of the drive-thru restaurant. While it’s not situated on Route 66 anymore, these days, the place is adorned with vintage photos that whisk you back in time, all while exuding the timeless charm of a 1950s diner. They serve Americas and Route 66 favourite food hot dogs, hamburgers, frito pie, milkshakes, and other diner favourites.
There are over 6000 Caves in Missouri, some even a few miles apart, all with different formations and histories.
One just outside Springfield are the Fantastic Caverns,.The cave was found in 1862 by a farmer whose dog chased a rabbit into a small opening in a bluff. There’s no sign of humans ever being in Fantastic Caverns cave prior to that, though it’s been used extensively since then — as a speakeasy in the 20s, a country music performance venue in the 50s and 60s and a tour cave. Despite its size, the original cave opening is so small, crawling is required to enter. However, a highlight of the cave is that due to its size inside, Jeep-drawn trams will take you through. Today it is America’s only “ride-through” cave. Following the path of an ancient underground river, saves long walks, steep climbs, and stairs.
Conway is small town in the southwestern corner of Laclede County, in south central Missouri. Route 66 was created in 1926, and passed through the western part of the town and brought a flow of tourists which were served by the locals.
Conway is named after the first storekeeper back in the 1870s. It is an Irish surname which was converted from different gaelic names into this English variant “Conway”:
After Route 66 bypassed Conway in the early 1950s, business fell drastically at the original Harris stations and cabins on Conway’s Old Route 66 junction.
Rolla. The Mule Trading Post is one of the major attractions in town. The city of Rolla is the county seat of Phelps County, it is located on Route 66, in central Missouri next to the Ozarks Region. Frank Ebling opened the original “Mule Trading Post” back in 1946 but when Route 66 was replaced by I-44 and bypassed his store, he moved west to Rolla in 1957 and opened a store on the frontage road. It is also home to the Hillbilly sign in front of the store.
Cuba is called the mural city and home to the world largest rocking chair.
Cuba has many classic and famous Murals, that earned it the moniker of “Mural City”. Cuba is the largest city in Crawford County, is located on Old Route 66, in the central Missouri Ozarks foothills.
From 1926 to 1969, while Route 66 went through Cuba, the travellers gave the local economy a boost, and motels, cafes and gas stations were built to cater to them. In 1969, Route 66 became a full-fledged divided highway and bypassed the town.
The “Uptown Cuba Historic District” is listed on the National Register of Historic Places; and the Missouri legislature designated Cuba as the Route 66 Mural City
At Cuba Visitor’s Center grounds, you will find the sculpture of a family of Osage natives trekking west after they were removed from their homeland in Missouri by the U.S. Government. It is 35 feet tall and 80 feet long, it includes an Osage warrior, his wife and daughter, and a domesticated red fox pulling a sled.
Amelia Ehrhard who was the first woman to fly solo across the Atlantic Ocean, had to make an emergency landing in Cuba in 1928 where she repaired her Avro airplane and continued her flight. She disappeared while flying around the world alone, in the Pacific Ocean and was never seen again.
Other interesting facts
Cuba has a shoe store which has on display the shoes of the worlds tallest man. A size 37AA and 35AA. Robert Wadlow was the World’s Tallest Man, so maybe he wore the 35AA while he was still growing. The outside of the shoe store is also covered by one large mural of what the corner looked like in the early 1900s.
In Bourbon, the town named after the liquor, you notice the 2 bourbon tanks in town, one is the New Bourbon tank and the other the Old Bourbon tank. The Kentucky settlers of the late 1700s, Scots, Irish, Welsh, English and some French and Germans, produced a spirit distilled from corn, which later became known as Bourbon because it originated in this area.
Route 66 was aligned through the town in 1926, and several new stores opened to cater to the travellers: garages, service stations and cabins. This continued until 1953 when the new four-lane alignment of US 66 bypassed the old business district.
Just south of Bourbon you find the Onondaga Caves, a National Natural Landmark and State Park. This cave is looking after tourist since 1904. In those days people arrived by train followed by horse drawn carriages.
Other interesting sights: Just outside Fanning the world’s largest rocking chair,42-feet-4-inches high on rockers each 31.5 feet long that weighed a ton apiece. Assembled out of steel pipe, the chair weighed 27,500 pounds. To be certified by Guinness as the World’s Largest Rocking Chair, the chair had to rock, which it did when first built. But the massive, multi-ton chair was so terrifying in motion, everyone was worried that tourists might flip it over and kill themselves, the chair was permanently welded to its base.
Once we arrived just before St Louis we turned north and said goodbye to Route 66.
We spent 3 weeks covering the area between Flagstaff to St Louis when most Americans do the complete Route 66 in 1-week (3600 kilometers PFFFFF). Hamburgers, fried chicken, meatloaf, hot dogs, French fries, corndogs, burritos, chili, steaks, fruit pies, milkshakes, and the like are common Route 66 road foods. But we gave up after a few days. We crossed 3 time zones, and the days became longer courtesy of the clock going forward and summer on the way.
We look forward to Part 3 of Route 66 from Saint Louis to Chicago with highlights such as:
- The symbolic start of Route 66 is Buckingham Fountain in Chicago’s Grant Park. B. Route 66 Welcome Center at the Joliet Area Historical Museum, with its excellent exhibit on the Muffler Men, huge fiberglass statues that were used to advertise car repair shops.
- Dell Rhea’s Chicken Basket, specializing in fried chicken served under the slogan, “Get Your Chicks on Route 66.” D. The perfectly preserved Ambler’s Texaco Gas Station in Dwight, where the gas pumps are painted gleaming red. E. Pontiac’s pride in its Mother Road heritage can be seen in its 23 colourful outdoor murals and its two museums dedicated to America’s love affair with the automobile. F. The Route 66 Association Hall of Fame & Museum showcases vintage ads, signs and a classic Volkswagen hippie bus housed in an old fire station. G. The uber-retro Ariston Cafe is one of the oldest continuously operating Route 66 establishments, serving up a melting pot of American, Southern, Greek, and Italian fare since 1924.
TIME TO EXPLORE MORE OF MISSOURI
First stop Lake of the Ozarks, to do some R&R. Lake Ozark is Missouri’s most popular lake destination and with more than 1760 kilometres of shoreline the lake has more shoreline than the coast of California. The lake has a surface area of approximately 220 square kilometres. Located on the northern edge of the Ozark Mountains in central Missouri, Lake of the Ozarks was created by an impoundment of the Osage River in 1931. In its over-90-year history, this long and winding lake has grown into Missouri’s premiere vacation destination, with over 70,000 homes along the lake, many of which are vacation homes and with more than 5 million visitors per year.
At the time of construction, Lake of the Ozarks was the largest manmade lake in the United States and one of the largest in the world (1931) Long and winding in shape, the lake consists of the main, 150 km Osage River channel and many arms each feeding different tributaries.
With more severe weather in the forecast (Thunderstorms, 2-inch hailstones and possible tornados around Lake Ozarks) we decided to leave. Instead of using the highways we decided to travel inland towards Kansas City. Driving through historic towns, with cobblestone streets and rolling hills enroute to Independence the city which was the home of Harry Truman for over 60 years including when he was President of the United States between 1945 and 1953. Once we crossed the city Kansas City, we crossed the State border into the State of Kansas. (Funny Kansas City is in Missouri)
PART 7 New Mexico (Northern Region)
NEW MEXICO, also known as the land of enchantment.
After we explored Route 66 in Central New Mexico this time we entered New Mexico from Colorado in the North to explore the Northern Part of New Mexico. New Mexico is defined by both culture and adventure and scenic landscape, New Mexico is home to 23 Native American Tribes, Pueblos, and the Navajo Nation, which each have their own languages, cultures, and ways of life.
In Aztec we visited The UNESCO World Heritage Aztec Ruins National Monument, The Ancient Pueblo people lived and flourished at this very sacred and spiritual place. This national monument allows visitors to respectfully enter some of these dwellings to experience a glimpse into the history of the land,
Aztec’s history of human habitation goes back a thousand years, when Native Americans settled along the Animas River. The remains of buildings they constructed have become Aztec Ruins National Monument.
Farmington, the gateway to the Trail of the Ancients Scenic Byway, amazing culture and indigenous culture enroute. The rugged beauty of the high desert terrain around Farmington is very unusual.
The other feature is the Shiprock Pinnacle. Native culture in Farmington, located in the heart of the Four Corners region, which has been home to Pueblo, Navajo, Hopi, and other Native people for centuries
Leaving Farmington, we followed part of the Grand Circle like we did last year. This amazingly scenic road full of natural wonders, including National parks, monuments, scenic byways and native American culture sites.
New Mexico Northern Part is amazing (except the road to the Arizona border) We are looking forward to our next visit in June/July when we will explore the southern part of New Mexico.
VIDEO
3. VIDEO CLIPS 2023/2024 CENTRAL USA
PART 1 COMPILATION CENTRAL USA 2023-2024-2025
PART 2 COMPILATION ROUTE 66
PART 3. WYOMING & SOUTH DAKOTA. CODY to DEADWOOD (including Mt Rushmore and Crazy Horse Memorial)
PART 4. SOUTH DAKOTA & NEBRASKA to COLORADO. (including Badlands National Park, Pine Ridge Indian reserve, known from the song we are all wounded at wounded knee
PART 5. COLORADO ( Rocky Mountains)
PART 6. SOUTH WEST COLORADO, entering from Utah.
PART 7 . SOUTH EAST COLORADO, Entering from Kansas
PART 8. OKLAHOMA ROUTE 66
PART 9. KANSAS & MISSOURI ROUTE 66
PART 10 KANSAS & MISSOURI 2024/2025
PART 1. COMPILATION CENTRAL USA 2023-2024-2025 (UNDER CONSTRUCTION)
PART 2, COMPILATION ROUTE 66
PART 3, WYOMING & SOUTH DAKOTA. CODY to DEADWOOD (including Mt Rushmore and Crazy Horse Memorial)
PART 4 SOUTH DAKOTA & NEBRASKA to COLORADO.
(including Badlands National Park, Pine Ridge Indian reserve, known from the song we are all wounded at wounded knee
PART 5, COLORADO ( Rocky Mountains)
PART 6. SOUTH WEST COLORADO ENTERING FROM UTAH
PART 7 . SOUTH EAST COLORADO, Entering from Kansas