PART 1, General Information

PART 2, BLOGS Pictures and Gallery 2017

PART 3, BLOGS Pictures and Gallery 2018

PART 4, VIDEO’s

PART 1, GENERAL INFORMATION

Capital city: Buenos Aires

Population: 45million

Currency: Peso

Km travelled: 8250 km

Days in Argentina: 183

Languages; Spanish (official) English not widely spoken

GENERAL

Second in South America only to Brazil in size and population, Argentina is flat and rises to the Andes at the Chilean border. Argentina has the highest mountain peak in the world (Aconcagua 6,960 m) outside Asia. Argentina is bordered by Bolivia and Paraguay on the north, and by Uruguay and Brazil on the east and Chile to the west. The northern area is the swampy and partly wooded Gran Chaco, bordering Bolivia and Paraguay. South of that are the rolling, fertile Pampas, which are rich in agriculture and sheep- and cattle-grazing and support most of the population. Further south is Patagonia, a region of cool, arid steppes with some wooded and fertile sections.

DIRTY WAR

The dark side of Argentina (known as the Dirty war) includes the junta being charged by the Commission for Human rights in Geneva with the death (murder) of 2300 people (political Murders) and the disappearance of between 20000 and 30000 people.

FALKLAND WAR (MALVINAS)

April 2, 1982 Argentina invaded the British held Falkland Islands (In Argentina called Las Isla Malvinas). The conflict lasted for 74 days and claimed the lives of 649 Argentinian military personnel, 255 British military personnel and 3 Falklands civilians. The man behind the junta, who was the main advocate of the attack, was Admiral Jorge Anaya. He estimated that the British would not pursue a military conflict, but would rather choose a diplomatic solution, in which the Argentinians could further promote the idea of sovereignty over the archipelago. Argentina’s original intention was to mount a quick, symbolic occupation, followed rapidly by withdrawal, leaving only a small garrison to support the new military governor. This strategy was based on the Argentinean assumption that the British would not respond militarily. The Falklands conflict remains the largest air-naval combat operation between modern forces since the end of the Second World War.

 

TOURIST HIGHLIGHTS

Argentina is a land of natural wonders, Tango and friendly people. From Glaziers to beautiful lakes, Mountain peaks to the bustle of Buenos Aires with the famous Steak houses. Argentina offers variety. Some of the highlights during our 3 overland tours in Argentina.

 

 

BUENOS AIRES  

Buenos Aires is the most visited city in South America, and for good reason. The city is famous for its outstanding cultural life and its European-influenced architecture. That sensuous dance, the tango, was invented in Argentina, and Buenos Aires is a good place to see it performed to perfection. Visit Rio de la Plata waterfront at Puerto Madero. El Obelisco is a much-loved attraction that stands 68 meters (223 feet) high over the city. It reaches proudly into the sky where 9 de Julio Avenue intersects with Corrientes Avenue, said to be the widest street in the world. Travelers who collect dining experiences may want to visit Café Tortoni, Argentina’s oldest and most famous café. Started by a Frenchman in 1858 who modelled it after a Parisian café, the Tortoni remains a popular place to enjoy coffee or snacks with friends as well as hobnob with writers, painters and other artists. It’s also a good place to see the tango performed on stage by professional dancers. You should not miss the Sunday markets in San Telmo and the Tango at Plaza Dorrego. Caminito Buenos Aires is considered one of Buenos Aires’ most colourful streets. Located in the neighbourhood of La Boca, visit the Soccer museum at the River Plate stadium. Recoleta Cemetery is where the elite of Argentina are buried, including the country’s former presidents, Eva Peron. It has over 3800 above-ground vaults, of which nearly 100 have been declared national historical monuments.

TIGRE

The city of Tigre is a destination that serves as a hub for the surrounding delta. While the city offers an extensive museum, great shops and a bustling outdoor market, the real appeal is escaping Tigre and exploring the river delta by boat. Very busy weekend destination.

IGUAZU FALLS

After Buenos Aires I am sure the most visited location in South America. It is in the north-eastern corner of the country near the borders of Paraguay and Brazil. This is amongst the largest and most majestic waterfalls in the world. It’s taller than Niagara Falls and nearly twice as wide.

VOLCAN LANIN

Right on the border between Argentina and Chile is Volcan Lanin. After a short walk from our campsite (less than an hour) you reach a viewpoint that offers views of the lake called Lago Tromen and the surrounding forest and Volcan Lanin in the background.

CERRO CATHERAL                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Situated in Argentina’s Lake District near San Carlos de Bariloche, is a famous and well-developed ski resort. In summer it also offers breathtaking mountain views.

THE SEVEN LAKES DISTRICT

The region around Bariloche is known for its incredible scenery. This could be visited using Bariloche as a base in one day. This route will include many alpine lakes and great scenery.

IBERA WETLANDS

The second-largest wetlands in the world after the Pantanal in Brazil. It is home to many iconic South American animals, including anacondas, armadillos, caimans, capybaras, howler monkeys, the ostrich-like rhea and more than 350 rare and endangered bird species.

QUEBRADA DE CAFAYATE

A spectacular canyon in the Valles Calchaquíes region. Quebrada de Cafayate is sandstone, unusual rock formations and bold colors.

QUEBRADA de HUMAHUACA

Located in the Far North West of Argentina. is an unearthly valley with a desert-like atmosphere that’s defined by cacti, lamas, rugged mountains and colourful sandstone escarpments. Great overnight stop is Purmamarca.

ACONCAGUA

Located on the main road from Mendoza to Santiago in Chile. Aconcagua is the highest mountain in the Andes and one of the world’s Seven Summits. It’s an exceptionally appealing destination due to its immense height. Explore the surrounding glaciers and many other natural sites located within Mendoza’s Aconcagua Provincial Park.

MONTE FITZROY

Situated in the south West of Patagonia near the Chile border This granite mountain is surrounded by glacial lakes and dramatic ice fields. Monte Fitzroy is one of the most iconic points in the Andes. Also loved by photographers for the extreme beauty.

PERITO MORENO GLACIER

Located in Los Glaciares National Park and another very busy tourist attraction due to easy accessibility. Glacial lakes, majestic mountains and marvellous glaciers can be seen in action when you are lucky enough. The constant cracking ice is a never-ending show with loud booms as giant blocks break away and crash into the lakes with enormous splashes. All this results in floating ice bergs of remarkable colours and shapes. 47 large glaciers are part of the highest in the world outside of the Himalayas. 13 of those flow all the way down to the Atlantic Ocean.

USHUAIA

Known as the most southern city in the world and the end of the world, Ushuaia is located on the Beagle Channel. The provincial capital of Terra del Fuego, the town is commonly used as a base for hiking, cruises to Antarctica, day trips to the surrounding national parks and the most southern point driveable in Argentina. Other highlights are Lake Fagnano and Lake Escondido.

BEAGLE CHANNEL

This is the strait in the Tierra del Fuego Archipelago, in the extreme south of Argentina. The channel is one of the three navigable passages around South America, the other ones are the Straits of Magellan to the north, and the open ocean Drake Passage to the south. A boat trip is the best way to view the Beagle Channel, with attractions such as the sea-lion colony at Isla de los Lobos, and Isla de Pájaros. You can follow the straight by 4WD till the Navy base where the track ends.

MENDOZA                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  The Mendoza wine region is the heart of the winemaking industry in Argentina. Located in the foothills of the Andes, some vineyards are some of the highest in altitude in the world.

 

VALDES PENINSULA

This remote Patagonian peninsula is a great place to see many marine mammals. Penguins, sea lions, seals, orcas and whales can be found in the waters located between the Valdes Peninsula and the Patagonian mainland between May and December. Other animals include foxes, guanacos, rheas, maras, shorebirds and other endemic species on the sparsely populated landmass.

CLIMATE:

Argentina is over 3,700 kilometres from north to south, from the nearly tropical in the north, to a temperate climate in Buenos Aires and the Pampas, cold and windy climate in Patagonia, to the subpolar climate of Tierra del Fuego. Lots of rainfall in the north-east, while snowfalls are regular in the extreme south. Being that it’s located in the Southern Hemisphere, the seasons in Argentina are reversed in comparison with North America or Europe.

BUENOS AIRES

Winter temp are around 17 degrees Celsius during the day and around 9 degrees at night.

Summer temperatures are around 28 degrees during the day and 20 at night.

Rainfall is evenly spread throughout the year. Ocean temp in January is around 20 degrees.

THE NORTH EAST OF ARGENTINA

Winter temp are around 11 at night and 21 degrees Celsius during the day while in summer between 20 at night and 32 Celsius during the day.

Rainfall is around 2000mm per year average around 9 days per month rain

 

THE NORTH WEST OF ARGENTINA

Around Salta summers are hot between November to February, with average Temp around 35 degrees Celsius during the day and around 21 at night.

Winters are nice with around 23 degrees but cold nights around 11 degrees Celsius.

Summer is the rainy season but in the form of short showers. Winters are normally dry.

MENDOZA AREA

Due to its location at around 700 meters winters are cold at night. Summers are warm.

Winter temp are between 1 or 2 degrees Celsius at night and around 20 degrees during daytime.

Summer temp vary from 17 degrees at night to 30 degrees during the day.

Rainfall in Mendoza is around 220mm per year most of this fall in summer.

PATAGONIA  

Generally, the weather is cool and windy. The wind is often very strong and cold.

Puerto Madryn on the Atlantic coast has cold winters with daytime temp around 12 degrees in winter to the mid-twenties in Summer.  Rain is scarce with around 170mm per year. However, in winter it can snow and freeze. The ocean is freezing cold with max of around 16 degrees late summer and around 9 degrees in winter.

TIERRA DEL FUEGO (USHUAIA)

The climate is cold oceanic, Summer temp are around 12 degrees during the day and around 5 degrees Celsius at night.

Winter temperatures are around 5 degrees during the day and below zero at night. Dropping to as low as minus 15 Celsius in winter.

Snow falls are common, and the wind blows nearly constantly.

THE ANDES

In the western part from north to south, it gets colder the further south you go and the higher the altitude.

Climate is basically divided in 2 sections: North of the 40^th parallel (arid) and South of the 40^th Parallel with lots of snow falls.

In the Andes there are several high peaks among which Aconcagua, the highest mountain in the entire American continent with its 6,962 meters. You find year round snows above 4,000 meters , while in the area of Cerro Torre (around 49 degrees south), they begin at 1,500 meters (5,000 feet), although the Viedma Glacier, which enters in the lake of the same name because of gravity, comes down to just 250 meters . In the extreme south, eternal snows are found above a few hundred meters of altitude.

SUMMARY

As you can see from the above if your stay is a short visit it would be impossible to find a single period where the weather is perfect in the whole of Argentina.

 

PART 2, BLOGS PICTURES AND GALLERY 2017

Arrival in Buenos Aires – The Start of Our South American Adventure

Having just arrived in Buenos Aires, we’re now eagerly awaiting the arrival of our truck/motorhome. With that, our three-year South American adventure officially begins. Time flies — after 12 years of overland travel through Australia, Africa, Southeast Asia, Russia, the Middle East, and the Central Asian ‘Stan’ countries, we left Egypt in November 2016. Now, the journey continues in South America.

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ARGENTINA

Argentina, located in the southern part of South America, is the world’s eighth-largest country. Its landscapes range from the windswept plains of Patagonia to the towering Andes and the subtropical north. But beyond its natural beauty, Argentina has a complex and turbulent history.

The 1970s were marked by a brutal military dictatorship. During this period, thousands of alleged dissidents were “disappeared” — kidnapped, tortured, and murdered. The dark chapter of state terrorism left lasting scars on the nation.

In 1982, Argentina’s military regime launched the Falklands War, invading the South Atlantic islands it claimed as its own. The war ended in a short but bloody defeat by British forces. This military failure catalyzed the fall of the dictatorship, and democracy was reintroduced shortly afterward.

 

BUENOS AIRES

Due to Argentina’s production of livestock and cereals, it was once ranked among the world’s wealthiest nations. Much of this agricultural activity takes place in the Pampas—rich grasslands that were once home to nomadic Native Americans, and later, the rough-riding gauchos.

Today, Argentina is a largely urban country, with Buenos Aires—its vibrant capital—sprawling across the eastern Pampas in a dynamic blend of history and modern life. Known as the Paris of the South, Buenos Aires did not disappoint. Our ship was delayed a few days, but we’ve been thoroughly enjoying the city in the meantime.

The nightlife is superb, the daytime markets are lively and full of character, and the steaks are massive—500g is considered small! Buenos Aires offers a seamless blend of old and new. Our favorite neighborhoods so far are Palermo, San Telmo, and La Boca. We love wandering the cobblestoned streets lined with charming cafés and quirky boutiques. With its French architecture and Spanish-style nightlife, Buenos Aires is a city with one foot in Latin America and the other firmly in Europe.

Must-See Sights in Buenos Aires

Recoleta Cemetery
A visit to the Recoleta Cemetery is like stepping into a silent city of stone and marble, where the rich, famous, and powerful of Argentina rest in eternal grandeur. With 4,591 above-ground vaults, the cemetery is a maze of history and artistry. It’s not just a burial ground—it’s a showcase of elaborate mausoleums, intricate sculptures, and architectural beauty. Among the notable graves is that of Eva Perón, Argentina’s beloved First Lady, whose life and legacy continue to captivate visitors from around the world.
Ninety-four of the vaults have been declared National Historical Monuments and are protected by the state, reinforcing the cemetery’s cultural significance. Walking through Recoleta feels like opening a history book—only each page is a tomb, a name, and a story etched in stone.

Plaza de Mayo
During our visit, Plaza de Mayo was heavily fenced, reflecting the political sensitivity that still surrounds this iconic square. Surrounded by important landmarks such as the Casa Rosada (the presidential palace), the Metropolitan Cathedral, and the Cabildo, the square has been the stage for countless historical moments in Argentina’s turbulent political life.

Our main reason for visiting was to witness the presence of the Madres de Plaza de Mayo—the Mothers of the Disappeared. These courageous women began marching in 1977, during Argentina’s brutal military dictatorship (1976–1983), when more than 30,000 people were kidnapped, tortured, and murdered by the regime. The mothers demanded answers, wearing white handkerchiefs embroidered with their children’s names, circling the May Pyramid each Thursday afternoon.

Though few of the original mothers remain today due to age and health, their symbolic presence continues. Their persistence turned private grief into public protest, making them an enduring symbol of resistance and human rights around the world.

La Boca – Buenos Aires’ Most Colorful Tourist Trap

La Boca is quite possibly the most mainstream tourist hotspot in Buenos Aires. The famous Caminito—that colorful little street tucked into the otherwise rundown barrio—has a reputation for being commercial, touristy, and a bit kitsch. Locals and guidebooks alike often dismiss it as tango-themed tourist bait. And Caminito really does mean “little walkway”—at less than 100 meters long, it’s never going to win awards for size. But don’t worry, Buenos Aires has that covered: Avenida 9 de Julio claims the title of the world’s widest street, and Avenida Rivadavia stretches on as one of the world’s longest.

Still, Caminito might just win a personal award from me—for the highest concentration of Japanese tourists per square meter. It was almost as colorful as the houses!

Tango Everywhere

What we did love in Buenos Aires was the tango. From street performers and musicians to dancers in the squares, bars, and restaurants—it was everywhere, and it was beautiful. Some of the most memorable moments came from the San Telmo markets, where the atmosphere felt more authentic and spontaneous. The music, the movement—it felt like the real heartbeat of the city.

The Superclásico at La Bombonera

Our visit also happened to coincide with the Superclásico at La Bombonera—the legendary clash between Boca Juniors and River Plate. The energy was electric. With 85,000 people crammed inside the stadium and what felt like another 100,000 outside, it was absolute mayhem. River Plate came out on top with a 3–1 win, but for us, just being there to experience the passion, noise, and chaos was unforgettable.

 

 

San Telmo quickly became our favorite suburb in Buenos Aires.
It has everything—history, character, beauty, decay, grit, life. It’s not as polished as Palermo or as elegant as Recoleta, but that’s exactly why we loved it. San Telmo has soul. There’s great food, live tango, music spilling out of bars, and a raw charm that makes it unforgettable.

We picked up our truck from Zárate—many thanks to Weber Agencies. The customs clearance was supposed to take two days, but thanks to Francesco’s amazing effort, we were done in one. That said, it took 13 hours, three trips between Zárate and Campana, and a good dose of patience. Still, outstanding service and a great result.

We also want to thank Belgaco Shipping and Steven Van Buynderen for their excellent follow-up and support from the European side. Everything went smoothly thanks to this solid team.

BUENOS AIRES TO BORDER BRASIL (The Long Way Round)

Our first stop was Andean Motorhomes in Ricardo Rojas, where the owners were incredibly friendly and helpful. They specialize in renting motorhomes, and we were able to park next to their workshop to prepare our truck for the next leg of our journey. I should mention, though, that their mechanic is probably the world’s most expensive, charging $150 USD per hour just for labor. He did a good job, Fair is fair when we had more issues the next day, 45 km outside of Zarate, he came out to fix them (apparently, he had forgotten a few things).

After leaving Buenos Aires, our first stop was Rosario. This city is known as the birthplace of Che Guevara, Lionel Messi, and the nation’s flag. While we couldn’t visit the apartment where Che Guevara was born since it is now privately owned, we learned that a law was passed in Rosario prohibiting parents from naming their children after Messi, which is an interesting and unusual rule.

We spent the night in Santo Tomé, just south of Santa Fe, staying in a small park/reserve in a lovely neighborhood. The following day, we visited Santa Fe, a city located on the Paraná River in northeastern Argentina. The Paraná River, along with the Uruguay River, is one of the two most important rivers on the American continent, after the Amazon. Santa Fe’s port is one of the most inland seaports in the world, nearly 400 km from the Atlantic Ocean (Rio de la Plata). The port handles imports and exports for Bolivia, Paraguay, and Argentina, making it a vital hub for trade.

As we journeyed further north, the landscape gradually transformed into a subtropical paradise, characterized by vast marshes, towering savannas, and woodlands. Upon arriving in Corrientes, we found ourselves in a region known as Argentine Mesopotamia—a low-lying subtropical province marked by plains, channels, lakes, and marshes, gradually rising to slightly higher elevations in the east. One of the most notable features of this area is the expansive Iberá Wetlands (Esteros del Iberá), located in the province’s north-central part.

Although visiting the Iberá Wetlands hadn’t been part of our original plan, a collapsed bridge forced us to take a 400km detour, bringing us right through this remarkable ecosystem. Spanning over 13,000 square kilometers, the Iberá Wetlands are Argentina’s largest and most important wetland area, periodically flooded depending on the region. These wetlands are just as ecologically rich as Brazil’s famed Pantanal, boasting a staggering diversity of wildlife. Over 300 bird species, 85 mammal species, 45 amphibians, and 35 reptiles call this area home, contributing to nearly a third of Argentina’s biodiversity.

Among the many species found here are the swamp deer, capybaras (the world’s largest rodents, which can reach 47 inches in length and weigh up to 110 pounds), caimans, black howler monkeys (whose calls can be heard up to 3 kilometers away), maned wolves, pampa deer, giant anteaters, yellow anacondas (or curiyú, Argentina’s largest snake), and the highly venomous yarará viper, which can grow up to 67 inches long. Of course, there are also piranhas, adding a certain thrill to the ecosystem.

This region is also home to the Gauchos, who tend to cattle in the vast pastures, moving herds between ponds and lagoons in search of drier land. Their deep connection to the land and its rhythms makes this an area where nature and culture intertwine in a remarkable way.

 

 

 

 

 

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We had a great time meeting up with Atte and Marijke, fellow world travelers, and spent a fantastic evening chatting before they continued their journey to Uruguay. Over the past two weeks, we traveled between three magnificent rivers: the Paraná River, the second longest river in South America after the Amazon, the Uruguay River, and the Upper Paraná River.

The iconic Iguazu Falls

Our final stop in Argentina for this trip was the iconic Iguazu Falls. Located on the border between the Brazilian state of Paraná and the Argentine province of Misiones, the falls divide the river into the upper and lower Iguazu. This stunning system includes 275 waterfalls spread over 2.7 kilometers (1.67 miles) of the Iguazu River, with individual falls reaching up to 82 meters in height, though most are around 64 meters.

 

The Devil’s Throat (Garganta del Diablo) is truly an awe-inspiring natural wonder! As the most powerful part of the Iguazu Falls system, its size and sheer volume of water flowing over it make it an incredible sight. The falls’ location, straddling the border between Argentina and Brazil, allows visitors to experience two very different perspectives of the waterfall. In Argentina, you can get up close to the falls on platforms that bring you nearly right to the edge of the falls, while the Brazilian side provides a more panoramic view, showcasing the full grandeur of the cascade.

The scale and beauty of Iguazu Falls, as the largest waterfall system by average annual flow, surpasses even Niagara Falls in both height and width. It’s no surprise that it’s considered one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. 

 

PART 3, BLOGS, PICTURES & GALLERY 2018

Buenos Aires to Laguna Azul 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our first stop was Azul, where we were able to refill our truck-mounted LPG tank. Further south, we found a great camping spot on I-overlander at Lake Salida. In Viedma, we left the N3 behind and took Route 1, a perfect 150 kilometer dirt road following the Camino de la Costa—a beautiful stretch of beaches. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Whales can be spotted in the waters between the Valdes Peninsula and the Patagonian mainland from May to December. After arriving in Puerto Madryn with 29-degree weather and clear blue skies, we decided to extend our stay for another day at Playa Paraná. We spent the day visiting the Reserva Faunística, home to a permanent sea-lion colony. Our first encounter with the infamous Patagonian wind came in Rawson, camping on the beach. At around 7 PM, the wind suddenly picked up, escalating from a steady force 3 or 4 to a powerful force in just minutes later we were told up to 120 kilometer per hour gust.

 

It was nearly impossible to open the door, so we had no choice but to look for some shelter, which we found about 200 meters away, tucked behind the public toilet. Phew! Our next stop was Cabos Dos Bahias, a provincial wildlife reserve near the town of Camarones. It offered perfect bush camping, and we were lucky enough to be close to the nesting sites and caves of thousands of Magellanic penguins.

 

Our original plan was to visit Bahia Bustamante, a private sheep farm in Patagonia covering 210,000 acres along the eastern coast. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t on our side, so we decided to head south toward Puerto Julian and the Monte León National Park, hoping to catch sight of the Elephant seals. Monte León turned out to be another fantastic overnight stop. Once a large sheep ranch, the park now stretches along 25 miles of oceanfront on the southern Atlantic coast, home to vast colonies of birds, including Magellanic penguins, as well as marine mammals along the shoreline.

Southern right whales cruise by on their annual migrations (though not during our stay). Unfortunately, camping is no longer permitted in the park—clear signage indicated this, although the reason wasn’t obvious. We were eventually told to move.

Locals told us we’d finally arrived in the “real Patagonia”—a legendary land of wildness, relentless winds, and hardy gauchos, all part of its iconic name.

“The word Patagonia, like Mandalay or Timbuktu, had long captured our imagination. We knew we had to visit this remote part of the world during our around-the-world adventure.”

The dry steppe of Argentine Patagonia is defined by its harsh conditions: less than 150 millimetres of annual rainfall, icy dry winds, and sandy, arid soil.

 

 

The Andes Mountains block moisture from flowing west, creating this arid area. The last larger city before the border with Chile was Rio Gallegos one of the windiest places on Earth, with winds reaching 100 km h on a regular basis. The city also has a major Argentine air base it was here from were the Falklands war was fought. Naval and air strikes where launched from here and Rio Grande. Río Gallegos is the centre of sheep trade for the Patagonia region and exports frozen mutton, sheepskins, and leather coats.

Cold Weather, Wet Snow & Lagoon Azul

The weather had turned cold, and wet snow was falling. With just 60 km left to go, we stumbled upon a magical campsite beside Laguna Azul—a volcanic crater lake. Interestingly, despite the guidebooks calling it blue, the water shimmered a distinct green. A surreal, peaceful place to spend the night before crossing into Tierra del Fuego.

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Falklands War – 1982

While passing through Río Gallegos, we had the chance to visit the Falklands War Museum, but chose not to. We had already spoken to several locals about the conflict and why Argentina lost.

Their take was strikingly consistent: “If Chile hadn’t supported England, the British would’ve lost—with heavy casualties.”

Argentina never expected the UK to go to war. The Junta anticipated a diplomatic resolution. However, the terms for Argentina’s surrender turned out to be far harsher than expected. On June 14, 1982, they accepted defeat, and Argentine troops withdrew, leaving the islands in British hands.

The Falklands conflict stands as the largest air-naval combat operation between modern forces since World War II. It remains surprising that, even with their air and naval bases just 500 km from the islands, Argentina could not secure victory.

The sovereignty of the Falkland Islands remains a contentious issue in Argentina. Yet, in 2013, a referendum held on the islands revealed a clear result: the vast majority of Falklanders wished to remain under British rule.

Tierra Del Fuego (Argentina)

 

 

 

 

 

Tierra del Fuego – The End of the World

After navigating border crossings through South East Asia, Africa, and the Middle East—often a challenge in themselves—our experience in South America so far has been surprisingly smooth. Roads have been good, and border formalities have been straightforward. The crossing from Argentina into Chile was no different.

We’ve now arrived in Tierra del Fuego, a windswept natural wonderland at the southern tip of South America, shared between Argentina and Chile. This remote archipelago is a striking blend of flat plains, peat bogs, and as we approached Ushuaia, dense forests and snow-capped mountains.

After resupplying in Rio Grande, our first stop was the tranquil Lake Fagnano (also known as Lake Kami), which straddles the Chilean border. Locals mentioned a new road being built by Chile that may eventually connect Tolhuin to Porvenir, opening up even more overland opportunities.

Having reached the southernmost and northernmost drivable points of Africa, Australia, and Europe, we couldn’t resist the chance to visit the southernmost point in mainland South America accessible by road—just beyond Rio Moat. Some call it the end of the world, and rightly so.

We camped roughly 110 km northeast of Cape Horn, and 135 kilometers south of Ushuaia, the continent’s true southern tip. The wild, rugged landscape was breathtaking—shaped by countless inlets and offering panoramic views that felt untouched by time.

A few days earlier, through the magic of Facebook, we reconnected with fellow Aussie overlanders Ian and Penelope Hunt, who were also making their way to Ushuaia. And where better to meet up than—literally—at the end of the world?

 

Lots of stories and information were exchanged before we backtracked to the N3. From there, it was time to explore the world’s southernmost ski area and the legendary town of Ushuaia.

Nestled on the shores of the Beagle Channel, Ushuaia proudly holds the title of the southernmost city on Earth. It’s a place of raw beauty, dramatically framed by the majestic Martial Mountains and surrounded by untouched wilderness. Whether you’re into hiking, wildlife, or simply soaking in the surreal landscapes, Ushuaia delivers a unique blend of rugged charm and natural splendor.

 

However, Ushuaia itself didn’t really appeal to us. It’s known as the starting point for Antarctica cruises, but since we were too late in the season, joining one wasn’t an option. While in Ushuaia, we took the opportunity to rotate the tyres, visit the tourist information centre, and get ready for our next stop: Tierra del Fuego National Park.

“The Real End of the Road?”

Most people believe that the road ends in Tierra del Fuego National Park, at the famous sign marking the southern end of Argentina’s National Route 3 (Ruta Nacional 3). And yes, it’s a great photo spot—it proudly reads: ‘Fin de la Ruta N3 – 17,848 km to Alaska’.

But here’s the truth—that’s not really the end of the road.

The southernmost navigable road in South America actually continues for another 135 km, all the way to Río Moat, along the Beagle Channel. To get there, you need to turn off Ruta 3 about 40 km before Ushuaia. There’s no sign, no tour buses, no souvenir stands—just a left turn onto the RJC road, which eventually becomes RP 33. After about 15 km, the paved road fades, and it becomes remote, rugged, and wild.

It’s not marked because it’s not a tourist attraction—but for true overlanders, it’s the real frontier. The true end of the road.

So while that sign in the National Park may be the official endpoint of Ruta 3, the journey doesn’t really end there. For us, that sign is just the beginning of another adventure.

“Alaska, here we come!”
Or as the old song goes… “North to Alaska.”

 

 

We hope to reach Alaska within the next 8 years. (2026) One thing is certain—we must take a photo with the sign marking the end of the N3 highway, just as we did with our truck at the same sign in Tierra del Fuego.

The eastern part of Tierra del Fuego is dry, with cold, dark winters and cool, windy summers. Snow can fall even in summer in many areas, making it a stark but beautiful landscape.

Before leaving Ushuaia, we witnessed the finish of an incredible journey: two Belgian runners completing a charity run from Alaska to Ushuaia. Since July 2016, they ran the equivalent of 590 marathons. Their achievement is truly inspiring, and we have deep respect for what they’ve accomplished.

You can find more about their story at www.viapanam.today. *Two Belgian ultrarunners completed an extraordinary 25,000 kilometers for a good cause—equivalent to running 590 marathons, one each day for the last two years. Their story is one of hope, persistence, and, as they put it, a fair bit of stupidity. (these are their own words)

We backtracked just before Rio Grande, where we stayed overnight. The next day, we followed the RP 8 track to Pass Bella Vista and crossed a small border into Chile.

FAR SOUTH WEST ARGENTINA 2018

From Torres del Paine to El Calafate: A Glacier and a Battery

After leaving Torres del Paine National Park, we exited Chile at Cerro Castillo—just a 5-minute process to leave Chile, and another 10 minutes to enter Argentina at Paso Río Don Guillermo. Efficient and uneventful. Our next destination: El Calafate.

First order of business in Calafate: replace a dead car battery, do the washing, and refill the water tanks. That called for a night or two of camping. We took the recommended option and stayed at El Ñandú (great choice).

El Calafate sits on the southern edge of Lake Argentino. The city’s name comes from a small bush common in Patagonia, known for its yellow flowers and dark blue berries. The town is heavily geared toward tourism—no surprise, as it’s the main gateway to Los Glaciares National Park and the stunning Perito Moreno Glacier.

Like in Chile, foreign tourists pay two or three times what locals do for park entry. I’ve said my piece about this before during our Africa travels, so no need to go on—let’s just say I’ve paid enough in foreign aid to last a lifetime.

The main reason for visiting El Calafate is, of course, the Perito Moreno Glacier. One of the few glaciers in the world that is still advancing—it’s truly a sight to behold.

 

Exploring the Glaciers of Southern Patagonia

We recently visited one of the most breathtaking natural wonders in Argentina—the Perito Moreno Glacier. This massive glacier is approximately 30 kilometers long and towers 80 meters high above the water. It stretches all the way to the border with Chile, showcasing the raw power and beauty of nature.

Fascinating Facts About the Region:

1. Ice Giants of the Andes: After Antarctica and Greenland, the Andes region in Chile and Argentina holds the third-largest area of ice in the world, covering around 12,500 square kilometers.

2. This region includes 48 major glaciers and over 100 smaller ones.

3. The Viedma Glacier, with an area of 975 square kilometers, is the largest glacier in Argentina.

4. The Perito Moreno Glacier itself has a staggering ice depth of 170 meters.

Multiple viewing platforms allow visitors to get up close to the glacier. If you’re patient, you might witness a spectacular moment: huge chunks of ice calving off the glacier and crashing into the water below with thunderous sound.

Perito Moreno is not just a glacier—it’s one of the top tourist attractions in southern Patagonia.

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Next Stop: El Chaltén

After exploring the glacier, we continued on to El Chaltén, a small, colorful village located in the northern part of Los Glaciares National Park. Nestled at the base of Cerro Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, El Chaltén is a hiker’s paradise and the perfect spot for experiencing the raw and rugged beauty of Patagonia.

 

The area around El Chaltén is rugged and truly impressive. The two major peaks that dominate the landscape are Mount Fitz Roy, standing at 3,405 meters, and Cerro Torre at 3,102 meters. The entire region offers breathtaking scenery, with dramatic mountains and wild natural beauty.

After spending time in El Chaltén, we backtracked 90 kilometers to rejoin Ruta Nacional 40 and continued heading north. While Ruta 40 is often described as remote and challenging, we found that reputation to be somewhat overstated. It’s true that some stretches lack cell phone coverage and fuel stations are more widely spaced, but nothing that a regular vehicle can’t handle with a bit of planning. There are gravel sections and areas under construction, but the majority of the road we traveled was paved—except for a segment between Tres Lagos and Gobernador Gregores.

Overall, the journey so far has been both scenic and manageable, far from the intimidating route we had anticipated. 

By now our Southern Patagonia part of the trip has nearly come to an end as we are heading for the Chilean fjords. From El Chalten we drove North parallel to the Andes, on the famous route 40 via little backwaters like Tres Lagos, Gobernador Gregores, Bajo Caracoles, Perito Moreno (don’t confuse this with the National Parc Perito Moreno) Route 40 has become some type of national symbol/achievement in Argentina, not sure why as the road is perfect and all but 100km paved. That is the bit we travelled from Don Guillermo border crossing (near Torres Del Payne National Park) till Los Antiguos where we crossed back into Chile. Also confusing is the name of this area is it Patagonia or the province Santa Cruz? Or both?

SOUTHERN PATAGONIA WEATHER

Despite the many warnings about the weather and the challenges of travelling late in the season, we’ve been fortunate—or perhaps we simply chose the right time of year. Don’t get me wrong, it was cold and we experienced some strong winds at night, but overall the weather was kind to us. According to the locals, March and April are ideal months to travel, with fewer tourists and more stable conditions. Most visitors seem to arrive in January and February, when the weather is actually more unpredictable and the winds at their strongest.

Let’s hope South West Chile treats us just as well as we explore the western fjords.

NORTHERN PATAGONIA 2018

Crossing from the tiny border post at Futaleufu from Chile back into Argentina took all up 30 minutes. After shopping at the Anonima supermercado in Trevelin plus 30 minutes to find a Claro office to load up our sim card (No Luck), we explored Trevelin. It is a historic town founded during the Welsh immigration wave around 1860. This area is also called the corridor of Patagonian lakes. (El Boston, Villa La Agustura, San Martin de Los Andes and Bariloche).  But for us the first stop was Los Alerces National Park. The major feature of this park are the Alerce Forest/Trees. 

This tree is the second longest living tree in the world. This tree (Alerce) is compared to the Sequoia tree in the USA, however we did not think so. Some of the Alerce trees in Chile are up to 3600 years old. Not willing to spend 100USD for a 2-hour boat trip we must believe the locals that the largest known Alerce tree in Argentina is 57 meters high and 2.3 meters in diameter. 

The park offers lots of free bush camping in very nice secluded spots. Besides the Alceres tree, clear water lakes, superb scenery and great campsites are the highlights of this park. After 6 days of no internet we made a quick catch up on Emails in the hippie town of El Bolson. In the sixties this was the place where the hippies arrived looking for a relaxed lifestyle. Even today you find the (now) old hippies at the crafts fair on Thursdays and Saturdays. 

Great place to look for craftworks in wood, stone and ceramics while being entertained by local music. Great beers are another highlight, this area is the producer of hop, 

fine fruits and cheese. Waking up the next morning to blue sky was something we had not witnessed for the last few weeks, the downside was it was minus 5 degrees overnight. The winding road to San Carlos de Bariloche has great views and many viewpoints.  

Exploring Bariloche and Mount Tronador

Mount Tronador, the highest peak near Bariloche at 3,534 meters, is a dramatic draw for mountain climbers and nature enthusiasts alike. This majestic mountain is home to seven glaciers—though, sadly, all are receding due to global warming. From Villa Mascardi, nestled beside the serene Lake Mascardi, a road branches off to Pampa Linda and the base of Mount Tronador, offering a scenic route into the heart of Patagonia’s wilderness.

San Carlos de Bariloche—more commonly known simply as Bariloche—sits on the shores of the stunning Nahuel Huapi Lake. Its picture-perfect setting makes it a major tourism hub, especially popular with affluent Argentines. The town is renowned for its charming chocolate shops, lively restaurants, inviting cafés, and bustling bars.

Bariloche also holds a controversial place in history. It has long been rumored to have sheltered Nazi war criminals after World War II—one allegedly served as the director of the local German school for years. Argentine writer Abel Basti has even claimed that Adolf Hitler and Eva Braun lived here for a time at Estancia Inalco.

Autumn is an ideal season to visit. The trees are awash in fiery reds, oranges, and golds, and the usual crowds are noticeably thinner, allowing for a more peaceful experience. During our stay, we explored the popular Circuito Chico, rode our scooter through the city, strolled along the shores of Nahuel Huapi Lake, and stocked up on the region’s famous chocolate in the city center.

The following day, we took a scenic chairlift ride up to Mount Campanario, where we were rewarded with panoramic views of lakes, forests, and mountains—a perfect way to conclude our journey through this enchanting corner of Patagonia.

The views in Bariloche are nothing short of spectacular—panoramic vistas of the city, shimmering lakes, and the rugged Southern Andes surround you at every turn. It’s often said that Bariloche has a Swiss-like charm, and with its steep prices and the iconic St. Bernard posing for paid photos in the city square, there might be some truth to that. But beyond those surface similarities, the comparison feels a bit stretched.  

Upon arriving in Bariloche, we were warned about petty crime in the city and how many tourists have fallen victim to theft. Locals advised us to move all our electronic gear from the front of the truck to the back and to avoid camping in the city. So, the following night, we decided to find a campsite. But when we arrived, we were shocked by the cost—$30 per night. Seriously? That felt excessive! We have everything we need on board: hot showers, a toilet, and solar power.

It’s worth noting that “campings” here can be a bit misleading. Essentially, anyone with a patch of grass or, in many cases, just some gravel and a spare toilet and shower (hot water often optional) will call it a “camping.” So the term doesn’t really guarantee much in terms of quality or amenities.

After a few days of exploring, it was time to head further north. Our plan was to follow the picturesque tourist route from Bariloche to San Martín de los Andes. However, with so much to see along the way, we found ourselves stopping and exploring Villa Angostura, and we ended up spending the day there instead of continuing on.

In hindsight, we should have pressed on, as the weather took a turn for the worse over the next few days, turning cold and nasty. After a couple of days, we decided it was time to move on and continue our journey towards San Martín de los Andes. The route we took runs through both Nahuel Huapi National Park and the southern section of Lanín National Park, offering spectacular views of seven beautiful lakes between Villa Angostura and San Martín de los Andes. The drive itself was nothing short of stunning, with dramatic landscapes at every turn. 

As the sun began to rise, we were treated to a stunning display of pristine lakes, thick forests, and breathtaking scenery. Our journey led us to Cerro Chapelco, a charming winter ski resort with 29 downhill runs, open from June to October. Upon reaching San Martín de los Andes, we arrived at the end of the famous 7 Lakes Circuit. With the weather clearing, we continued our journey toward Lanín National Park. There, we were greeted by the majestic Lanín Volcano, an ice-capped, conical peak standing proudly at the border between Argentina and Chile.

Lanin is the easternmost of the three volcanoes in the region. Unlike Villarrica, which erupted as recently as 2015, the Lanin Volcano has been dormant for the last 2,200 years. We set up camp at the base of this towering 3,737-meter peak, where we experienced our coldest night in Argentina yet, with temperatures dipping to a brisk -7°C. The following day, we crossed into Chile—but it wasn’t without a hiccup.

Initially, we were refused entry by the border police due to our right-hand drive vehicle. But once the the manager got involved all was solved in no time. 

 

MENDOZA REGION

We crossed into Argentina from Chile at the Paso Pino Hachado border post, where the process was quick and efficient. Our first stop was the small town of Las Lajas before continuing on to the ski resort of Las Leñas.

The drive to Las Leñas offered stunning scenery, with dramatic mountain peaks lining the route. Upon arrival, we were allowed to spend the night in the resort’s car park, which made for a memorable and unique overnight stay.

Locals told us that Las Leñas receives over six meters of snow during an average winter season. Like many ski resorts outside of Europe, the village feels somewhat lifeless without its winter coat of snow. However, the spectacular mountain backdrop and the scenic journey to get there more than make up for it.

Waking up the next morning, I realized I had lost vision in one eye.
Driving down the mountain like that was tricky, but we knew something was seriously wrong. So, we made the 400-kilometre journey to Mendoza without delay.

The next morning, I had a doctor’s appointment, which quickly turned into an emergency operation that same day. After a week of rest, we returned to the eye specialist, only to receive more bad news — I needed a second operation. Unfortunately, the wound still had to heal, so we were stuck in Mendoza for another week.

The second surgery went smoothly, and five days later, we were finally able to travel again. Still, the advice was clear: “Take care,” and make sure to return for a follow-up the following week. 

“The good thing was, it gave us time to do more sightseeing, campfires, and happy hours, Since we sold our business, even Wi-Fi or data isn’t a concern anymore. Who gives a s..t about Facebook or social media anyway? So, being stuck in Mendoza with Wi-Fi for once, we figured it was the perfect time to update photos and blogs.  

Mendoza is a very touristy town with all facilities, located in the west of Argentina and the centre of the Argentinian wine industry and is not far from the highest mountain in the world outside the Himalayas (Aconcagua). The city is green (thanks to an artificial irrigation system), wide avenues and lots of greenery gives the city a very nice ambience. To the west the Andes are towering over the city.

“The city is easy to navigate, and some of its highlights include Parque San Martín, Cerro de la Gloria—with its viewpoint overlooking the city and the Andes Mountains—and Plaza Independencia, the main square and a great starting point for exploring downtown Mendoza.”

The main restaurant strip in Mendoza runs along Aristides Villanueva, from Avenida Belgrano to Parque San Martín. On the corner, you’ll find El Patio de Jesús María, a fantastic restaurant known for serving the world-famous Argentinian beef asado, grilled to perfection on a traditional parrilla.

Dining times vary by culture. Europeans typically eat around 7:30 PM, and Australians even earlier—around 6 PM. But in Argentina, the rhythm is very different. Most locals don’t head out to dinner until 9 or 10 PM. In Mendoza especially, many kitchens don’t even open before 9 PM, and restaurants usually don’t fill up until 10 PM or later. On weekends, it often doesn’t get busy until 11 PM. But as the saying goes, when in Rome…

It’s also helpful to know that siesta is a big part of daily life here. Most shops and businesses close from around 1 PM to 5 PM, reopening in the evening until about 9:30 PM.

Taxis are affordable and readily available, making it easy to get around. All in all, Mendoza isn’t a bad place to be “stuck.”

Many thanks to Lalo at Camping Suizo in El Challao for being so helpful during our stay. Big thanks to Ian Hunt and Pen for their company and for organizing a great BBQ. Also, much appreciation to Rene van Olst (a Dutch name, but Italian by heart) for coming with me to the hospital and doing all the translating, and to Klaas and Sippie for checking in on us while we were in Mendoza.

The place we did not visit are the Termas de Cacheuta.  Doctor orders, he told me under no circumstances water in my eye. But hopefully we can visit after our return to Mendoza next week when we visit the eye specialist once more.

MENDOZA NORTHERN LOOP TO CHILE BORDER

Journey Through Central Argentina: A Spiritual Encounter and Mountain Majesty

After two weeks of medical uncertainty, I was finally cleared to travel—though only for seven days, with a required return to Mendoza before crossing into Chile. With no vision in one eye and the other still blurry from daily drops, we eased our way out of Mendoza. As the medication wore off, my vision slowly improved, and we pressed north without stopping in San Juan, heading straight for Difunta Correa.

We had long wondered about the countless red-flagged roadside shrines across central Argentina. It turns out they’re tributes to Deolinda Correa, the unofficial saint of travelers and truckers. Her legend—dying in the desert while following her sick soldier husband, with her baby found alive at her side—has fostered national devotion. Her resting place now hosts a full-blown pilgrimage town, with everything from a museum to a health center and over 600,000 annual visitors. We spent the night in the car park, beneath the red ribbons of faith and folklore.

Our next destination was the stunning Ischigualasto Provincial Park, or Valley of the Moon. Despite the frustrating convoy-style tour (mandatory and ranger-led), the bizarre rock formations and colorful mineral layers made it worthwhile. It evoked memories of Egypt’s Wadi El Rayan and the Fayoum Oasis. After the final stop, we were allowed to linger—taking in the surreal landscape until nearly dark. This park deserves a full-day visit; its fossil-rich grounds are still yielding new dinosaur discoveries.

Continuing on Route 150, we experienced one of Argentina’s most beautiful drives—descending from 1500m to 800m through tunnels and across bridges, wrapped in shifting mountain scenery. A planned shortcut via Route 491 was thwarted by impassable terrain for our truck, forcing us back to the winding but spectacular Route 150 along the Jáchal River.

At Cuesta del Viento Dam, we battled ferocious winds—so strong we had to move camp for shelter. This man-made lake is a hub for international windsurfing, particularly from December to May. The night dipped to -6°C, and even by morning the cold and gusts persisted.

From Rodeo, we climbed into the Andes via Route 149, only to find the bad weather had blanketed the area in snow. Icy roads slowed our descent, and we witnessed three minor accidents. But as we neared Calingasta, the views of the Andes were jaw-dropping.

In Barreal, known as the “oasis in the desert of Cuyo,” we camped at a peaceful picnic site, facing 6500m+ peaks—including Mount Mercedario (6770m). The nearby Pampa del Leoncito, a vast white plain resembling a lunar surface, was breathtaking. We also learned this area boasts some of the clearest skies in Argentina—perfect for stargazing.

Just 110km south of Barreal lies Route 7, linking Buenos Aires to Santiago. It 

was nearly time to set eyes on Mount Aconcagua, the tallest mountain in the Western Hemisphere and part of the Seven Summits. No plans to climb—but it’s fascinating that, technically, it requires no ropes.

And then, back to Mendoza, for another medical check. The verdict: bittersweet. We’re cleared to continue—but full vision in my right eye won’t return. But we can continue travelling. Next check up in 6 months’ time at home in Australia.

Discovering Difunta Correa and the Valley of the Moon

As we traveled through central Argentina, we were intrigued by the countless red-flagged shrines that dotted the roadsides. These shrines were dedicated to Difunta Correa, an unofficial saint with deep roots in the Argentine Civil Wars. The story of Deolinda Correa, the woman behind this devotion, is both poignant and mystical.

Deolinda was the wife of a soldier who fell ill during the civil conflict. After being left behind by her husband, she followed him through the harsh terrain, determined to stay by his side. Tragically, she became lost in the desert, where she perished. When cattle drivers later discovered her body, they were astonished to find her baby still alive, seemingly miraculously nourished by her milk. Over time, this extraordinary tale of devotion and survival turned into a powerful symbol of faith for local cattle farmers, who developed a deep reverence for her. The devotion soon spread to truck drivers and other travelers, turning the hillside where she was buried into a sacred site.

Today, that site has grown into a place of pilgrimage, attracting over 600,000 visitors annually. It’s marked by hundreds of miniature houses, red ribbons, car number plates, rims, and thousands of bottles of water left in offerings to Difunta Correa. A small town has grown around the site, with a museum, retail shops, restaurants, and even a health center catering to the faithful and curious alike.

As dusk fell, we decided to stay overnight in the carpark near the shrine, surrounded by a tranquil atmosphere that contrasted with the bustling spiritual energy of the place.

The next morning, we set our sights on Ischigualasto Provincial Park, also known as the Valley of the Moon. We drove along the perfect RP 510 road, which wound through the Valley of Fertile. The park’s entrance, however, was a bit of a letdown. We were told we could only explore the park in a convoy, led by a ranger. This kind of organized tour is never our favorite, and we were less than thrilled about the restrictions—five stops in three hours, with quick talks at each stop, followed by a return to the car.

Despite our initial frustration, the park itself proved to be well worth the visit. The strange, moon-like landscapes reminded us of our time in Egypt, particularly the Wadi El Rayan and Fayoum Oasis en route to the Western Desert. 

The terrain at Ischigualasto is otherworldly, with bizarre clay formations and layers of minerals and sediments creating a striking, almost surreal scenery.

Though the ranger’s pace left little time for leisurely exploration, we couldn’t help but stop for extra photos at each of the five designated stops, much to the ranger’s amusement. After the final stop, we were allowed to drive back at our own pace, and the experience felt more rewarding as we explored the park at our leisure. The park deserves a full day to explore properly—there’s so much to see, from its striking rock formations to the incredible fossil discoveries still being made.

As we camped in the carpark again, just outside the park entrance, we reflected on the day. The sun was setting by the time we finally left the park, and despite the rigid structure of the tour, Ischigualasto’s unique landscape made it an unforgettable experience—one we wouldn’t have wanted to miss.

 

The following day, we continued along the 150, and without a doubt, it turned out to be one of the most picturesque drives we’ve experienced so far. We descended from an altitude of 1500 meters to 800 meters, with every twist and turn revealing stunning scenery. As we crossed bridges and passed through several tunnels, the landscape seemed to unfold in mesmerizing ways.Once we arrived in the valley the weather turned grey and cloudy.

Our plan to drive the 491 from Huaco to San José de Jáchal was derailed when the police stopped us, warning that the road was impassable for our truck. So, we took a detour and made our way back to Route 150. This alternate route didn’t disappoint. We followed the narrow road alongside the Jáchal River, and the scenery was absolutely stunning.

Just before arriving in Rodeo, we found a perfect camping spot by Lake/Dam Cuesta del Viento. Locals had warned us about the strong winds in the area, and they weren’t kidding. It was so windy that we had to move to a more sheltered spot for some protection. This man-made dam is a popular windsurfing destination, with wind speeds regularly reaching up to 120 km/h from December to May. February, in particular, hosts a major international windsurfing competition.

That night was incredibly windy and cold, with temperatures dropping to minus 6°C by 9 AM. After a visit to the bakery in Rodeo, we set off to explore the mountains and the spectacular scenery along Route 149. What we didn’t anticipate was that the cold front we’d experienced overnight had brought snow, making our descent from 2600 meters to 1500 meters a slow and cautious one. Along the way, we witnessed three minor accidents where cars lost control on the icy roads.

Once we reached the lower elevations near Calingasta, the views of the Andes were breathtaking. 

We camped overnight in Barreal, known as the “oasis in the desert of Cuyo.” Our campsite, just west of town, overlooked the towering, snow-capped peaks of the Andes, including the impressive 6770-meter Mount Mercedario. The town itself is lined with poplars and willows, offering a serene contrast to the harsh desert landscape surrounding it.

A short 40 kilometers south lies Pampa del Leoncito, a vast plain stretching 14 kilometers long and 5 kilometers wide. The bright white surface of this place is so striking it feels like you’ve stepped onto the moon.

The streets are full of poplars and willows. Another 40-kilometre south is Pampa del Leoncito a plain which is 14 kilometres long and 5 kilometres wide. The very white surface makes you feel you are on the moon.

Barreal is renowned for having some of the clearest skies in Argentina, making it an ideal destination for stargazing and taking in stunning panoramic views. Located just 110 km south of Route N7, which connects Buenos Aires to Santiago in Chile, it’s a perfect starting point for exploring the surrounding natural wonders. One of the most iconic sights nearby is Mount Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Andes and one of the world’s Seven Summits.

While we have no intention of climbing it, Aconcagua stands as a formidable giant, towering above at nearly 6,961 meters (22,841 feet). It’s considered the highest mountain outside the Himalayas and draws adventurers from across the globe. Interestingly, it’s possible to reach the summit without ropes or technical gear, though the trek is still a challenging one.

Even if you’re not climbing, the views of the mountain and its surrounding landscapes are awe-inspiring, offering plenty of opportunities for scenic hikes and explorations. Whether you venture close to its base or simply admire it from a distance, Mount Aconcagua is a must-see for anyone visiting the region.

For us it was back to Mendoza from here as we had another doctor’s appointment hopefully given us the all clear continuing our journey to Chile. The verdict was  Yes, we can continue travelling, however the vision in my right eye will not return.

 

FAR NORTH WEST ARGENTINA 2018

Coming down the spectacular Jama Pass from Chile, we arrived in the northwest of Argentina. After a bush camp, our first stop was the greatest depression in the region: the Salinas Grandes—12,000 hectares of salt flats, located 130 km west of Purmamarca. This huge white landscape was an amazing sight.

Next, we visited Purmamarca, a small, touristy village with dirt roads, a cozy plaza, and the famous Seven-Colour Hill (Cerro de los Siete Colores). For us, it was the most picturesque village in the valley, nestled at the base of this striking natural formation.

We then entered the Quebrada de Humahuaca, a beautiful valley filled with cacti and colorful sandstone escarpments. This area follows ancient Inca trade routes that have existed for thousands of years. The 96-kilometer-long valley is famous for its vibrant colours and rich cultural heritage.

After a few days, it was time for some shopping, so we headed south to Salta, the capital of Salta Province. With just over 620,000 inhabitants, it is the largest city in Argentina’s far northwest. Salta is affectionately known as “Salta la Linda”—Salta the Beautiful.

Salta is known for its excellent weather, friendly locals, and scenic beauty. The city features a wealth of attractions, including museums, churches, historic buildings, charming squares, cafés, and vibrant nightlife.

Unfortunately, our sightseeing plans in Salta were disrupted by poor weather. The cable car to Cerro San Bernardo was cancelled, so we opted to go shopping instead. With no signs of improvement in the weather over the following days, we decided to change our itinerary. We attempted to continue with our planned trip to Cafayate, but low clouds, fog, and drizzle made travel difficult. It wasn’t long before we turned around and headed north toward Bolivia, hoping for better conditions.

Unfortunately, this meant we missed out on visiting the Province of Catamarca — a region known for its stunning Andes scenery, remote drives off the beaten track, Inca ruins, craters, and hot springs. We also had to skip the Tafí del Valle and the Valles Calchaquíes due to low clouds and drizzle. It was a shame, but we felt fortunate to have experienced perfect weather while exploring the Quebrada de Humahuaca and the Atacama Desert in Chile. Another spot we missed was the Colomé winery, home to Altura Máxima — the highest vineyard in the world at over 3,100 meters. In the end, we decided to try our luck at Calilegua National Park.

A very different tropical mountain landscape greeted us at just under 400 meters in altitude. Our main reason for visiting this park was the chance to see the largest predator in South America—the Jaguar—and also the elusive Puma. (Seeing the jaguar in the Pantanal remains one of our top highlights in South America.) Unfortunately, the weather was still lousy and cold.

We changed our plans again; instead of staying overnight, we opted for the hot pools just 30 km up the road. Termas de Caimancito offers three pools with water temperatures of 48°C, 42°C, and 38°C. We were able to camp right next to the pools, which made for a perfect afternoon and morning of relaxation.

As rain continued to pelt down, we decided it was time to head to our next destination: Bolivia.

Tomorrow, we’ll be leaving Argentina behind, marking the end of this leg of our world tour. Argentina has proven to be a country of incredible diversity—stunning mountain scenery in the east; the cold, barren, and windy landscapes of Patagonia, where glaciers dominate and people are few; the charming areas around Bariloche and Mendoza, home to Mt. Aconcagua (6,960 meters), the tallest mountain outside the Himalayas; and Foz do Iguaçu, one of the world’s most breathtaking waterfalls.

Buenos Aires stands out with its tango rhythms, San Telmo markets, colorful La Boca district, and its rich cultural energy. The wildlife here, while not quite comparable to Africa’s, has its own charm—penguins, llamas, vicuñas, guanacos, condors, and of course, jaguars and pumas (though we didn’t spot the latter two ourselves).

And then there are the people. Like Australia, Argentina is a multicultural society filled with warm, fun-loving, friendly, and inviting individuals. The weekend BBQs (Asados) are a highlight in themselves. Unsurprisingly, Argentinians consume over 85 kg of meat per person per year. Be warned: they dine late—arrive before 10 PM and you’ll likely eat alone. 11 PM is more the norm.

One question we’ve been asked many times: Would you live in Argentina? Honestly, no. Australia still feels like the best place on earth to live as an emigrant. Argentina has too many issues, and I’d be especially concerned approaching retirement age here. I spoke with several emigrants who would return to Europe, Canada, or the USA if they could—held back either by family ties or financial limitations.

Would I come back to visit as a tourist? Absolutely! Argentina has great people, stunning scenery, and fantastic food.

 

 

Would we come back to visit as a tourist? FOR SURE as Argentina has Great People, Great Scenery, Great Food.

Adios Argentina, hasta la próxima

PART 4, Video 

 

1. Argentina Part 1, Buenos Aires to Foz de Iguazu

2. Argentina Part 2, Buenos Aires to Tierra Del Fuego

3. Argentina Part 3, Tierra Del Fuego

4. Argentina Part 4,  Far South West Argentina

5. Argentina Part 5,   Northern Patagonia

6. Argentina Part 6,   Central Argentina to Mendoza

7. Argentina Part 7,

8. Argentina Part 8,

9. Argentina Part 9,

10. Compilation South America Part 1

11. Compilation South America Part 2 (Galapagos Islands, Ecuador, Colombia & Dakar 2019) UNDER CONSTRUCTION 

1. Argentina Part 1

2. Argentina Part 2

3. Argentina Part 3

4. Argentina Part 4

https://youtu.be/yrTOMQYpYF8

5. Argentina Part 5, Northern Patagonia

https://youtu.be/Sni8T3GWfTg

6. Argentina Part 6, Central Argentina to Mendoza

https://youtu.be/9U2ec1MMwwY

7. Argentina Part 7.

https://youtu.be/k70-w71YkZM