Bolivia 2018 PART 1, General InformationPART 2, BLOG Pictures and Galleries PART 3, PART 3, VIDEO BOLIVIA PART 1, GENERAL INFORMATION Capital city: Sucre Population: 11 million Currency: Bolivian Bolíviano Km travelled: 4150 Days in Bolivia: 59 Languages; Official Language is Spanish, but it also has 36 indigenous languages officially recognized. General Bolivia is a land locked country and is traditionally regarded as a highland country, although only one third of its territory lies in the Andes mountains. Bolivia’s mountainous western region is one of the highest inhabited areas in the world. Much of its history has consisted of a series of coups and countercoups, with the last coup occurring in 1978. Democratic civilian rule was established in 1982, but leaders have faced difficult problems of deep-seated poverty, social unrest, and illegal drug production. In December 2005, Bolivians elected Movement Toward Socialism leader Evo MORALES president – by the widest margin of any leader since the restoration of civilian rule in 1982 – after he ran on a promise to change the country’s traditional political class and empower the nation’s poor, indigenous majority. In December 2009 and October 2014, President MORALES easily won re-election. His party-maintained control of the legislative branch of the government, which has allowed him to continue his process of change. In February 2016, MORALES narrowly lost a referendum to approve a constitutional amendment that would have allowed him to compete in the 2019 presidential election. Bolivia is a land of contrasts—geographically, culturally, and politically. As the highest and most isolated country in South America, Bolivia’s breathtaking landscapes stretch from the towering peaks of the Andes to the vast expanses of the Altiplano. Despite being landlocked, Bolivia shares borders with five countries: Brazil, Peru, Paraguay, Argentina, and Chile. Home to the largest indigenous population in South America, with indigenous peoples making up 66% of the population, Bolivia’s rich cultural heritage is a key part of its identity. The country is also known for its vast natural resources, including being the second-largest producer of natural gas in South America and the largest producer of coca in the world. For many poor farmers, coca is not only a traditional crop but also a critical source of income. A Complex Landscape Throughout our 3 overland trips in Bolivia, we’ve seen just how diverse Bolivia is. From the high-altitude cities like La Paz to the desolate beauty of the Uyuni Salt Flats, the western part of the country offers some of the most striking landscapes we’ve ever encountered. But Bolivia’s beauty goes beyond the surface—it’s a country full of complex social, political, and economic challenges, many of which are rooted in its history and its relationship with the land. The issue of coca, for instance, remains a divisive topic. While it’s a source of livelihood for many farmers in rural areas, it also presents significant challenges for the country on the international stage due to its connection to the production of cocaine. The balance between tradition, agriculture, and the demands of global markets is something we’ve come to realize is at the heart of Bolivia’s struggles. Looking Ahead From the lush Amazonian lowlands to the vibrant city of Santa Cruz, there’s so much to discover. Bolivia’s rich diversity, both in nature and culture. It gave us an understanding of this unique and fascinating country. Tourist Highlights Bolivia is sparsely populated and unspoilt by modern development, much of the land is untouched, preserving its natural beauty of rugged terrains, towering mountains, windswept plains and surreal salt flats. A trip through Bolivia will feel like a trip back in time. About 60% of the population identifies as indigenous, many of whom are maintaining traditional values and beliefs and often wear traditional dress. From the high mountain lakes of Titicaca to the steamy lowland jungles, Bolivia is an exciting destination with enormous cultural wealth, beautiful Andean landscapes and the remnants of mysterious ancient civilisations. LA PAZ La Paz lies between 3,250 meters (City) and 4,100 metres (Suburb Alto Plano above sea level). The centre of the city lies in a deep, broad canyon formed by the La Paz, or Choqueyapu, River. Although few colonial buildings survive, the narrow, steep, older streets, red-tile roofs, and highland Indians in colourful dress, with the mountain Nevado Illimani (6405 meters) and other snow-capped peaks in the background, give La Paz a distinctive atmosphere. Must do’s are the Sunday Markets in Alti Plano and the Mercado de Brujas (“Witches’ Market”), where herbs and other remedies used by the Aymara are sold. El Alto was one of the fastest growing suburbs in the world, its population increased from 300000 in 1990 to more than a half million in the mid-1995. RURRENABAQUE A small town in the North West of Bolivia on the Beni River. An easy gateway for visits to Madidi National Park and the surrounding pampas. There are 3 ways to reach Rurrenabaque. The most travelled route is the Yungas Road also known as the Death road. However, the old Yungas road can also be bypassed taking the new Yungas road. Riberalta south following the F8 the F3 from Trinidad or soon the f16 from Cobija (we are told) via Chive. MADIDI NATIONAL PARK The thick steamy jungle of this huge national park stretches from the snowy peaks of the Cordillera Real, all the way down to the Amazon River basin, making it one of the largest protected areas in the world. Madidi is famous for its phenomenal bird life. It has also an abundance of mammals, reptiles, fish and insects. If possible, try to attend an Ayahuasca ceremony with a local shaman. THE PAMPAS Expect to see a huge array of exotic wildlife including several species of monkey, capybaras, snakes and anteaters. Bird watchers can tick off several species including the toucan and colourful blue macaw, while piranhas, pink dolphins, caiman and turtles can be spotted swimming in the water. THE DEATH ROAD The old Yungas Road is a cycle route about 60 km long which links the city of La Paz with the Pampas. The road was built in 1930. Because of steep slopes, a narrow single track, lack of guardrails, rain, and fog, the road was considered dangerous. Despite its nickname, it is not the most dangerous road in the region. Unlike the rest of the country, traffic is left-hand, to allow the driver to assess the distance of their outer wheel from the edge of the road. We were told this road is not exclusively for cycling activities, but this was incorrect when we visited the area. Locals told us over 20000 people visit this area per year and it has become a major tourist hub. The old road is 65 km long (new road bypasses the old Yungas road) and drops 3500 meters. The new route from La Paz to Yucumo bypassing the most dangerous sections of the original road.is mostly asphalt now, except for about 120km of still narrow roads. However, those 120km are still very interesting due to fog, landslides, waterfalls and cliffs that drop up to 1000 meters. Most of the track is not wider than 3 meters, but roadworks are ongoing, and it won’t belong before the whole road is sealed. Until the late 90’s up to 300 people were killed on this road every year! It was the only way to travel from La Paz to Coroico (70km) until 2006. However, an amazing experience with amazing scenery. TARIJA This city in southern Bolivia is located at 1900 meters is one of Bolivia’s oldest settlements. The inhabitants are well known for their outdoor religious processions and festivals. SUCRE Lies in a fertile valley crossed by the Cachimayo River, at an altitude of 2790 meters. Many colonial churches survive, including the 17th-century Basílica Metropolitana and the churches of La Recoleta, San Lazaro, La Merced, San Miguel, and Santa Clara. The city contains many examples of Spanish colonial architecture and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1991. Sucre is an easily walkable city and the older sections, with the white colonial buildings and their distinctive red-tiled roofs and balconies, offer nooks and crannies to explore. Home to a large indigenous population who maintain their traditional clothing and customs and sell their crafts and goods available in the markets and fairs. POTOSI Just 90 km southwest of Sucre. One of the world’s highest cities at 4050 meters high, it stands on a cold and barren plateau in the shadow of the fabled Potosi Mountain (Cerro Rico). Although it had floods and a few earthquakes, Potosí retains its colonial charm. Narrow and winding streets all seem to start from the central plaza. While in Potosi a must do is a visit to the mines in the Cerro Rico mountain (rich Mountain), although this is not for the faint hearted. Potosi’s Cerro Rico is also called the mountain that eats men. For centuries, Indian slaves mined the mountain’s silver in brutal conditions to bankroll the Spanish empire. Today, the descendants of those slaves run the mines. But hundreds of years of mining have left the mountain porous and unstable, and experts say it is in danger of collapsing. There are 600 mines, most of them abandoned, and about 60 miles of shafts that have left it hollowed out like a slab of Swiss cheese. Total collapse is possible. The Spanish called the mountain Cerro Rico, or Rich Mountain, for the silver they extracted from the mountain. Some 3 million Quechua Indians were put to work here over the years. Hundreds of thousands died, casualties of cave-ins, or killed by overwork, hunger and disease. Today, little appears to have changed. Up to 16,000 miners toil here much like their ancestors did, using picks, hammers, shovels and brute strength. Men and boys — sons of the miners — haul rocks to the surface on their backs. There are rail cars, but they are the old iron ones introduced to mining in the 19th century. There’s no lighting aside from workers’ headlamps, and no piped-in oxygen or safety regulations. Nonetheless, mining families here are proud of their role in the mine. The miners must lower themselves down rocky, tight holes barely big enough for a grown man. And then they spend hours heaving and hauling, all at an altitude of 4000 meters. Most only survive 15 years in the mine and die from inhaling the fine dust at the silver mines or finish up at home gasping for air. They live in a rough-and-tumble neighbourhood, at the base of the mountain. They frequently put on big parties, complete with brass bands and plenty of food and beer. LAKE TITICACA The world’s highest lake navigable to large vessels, lying at 3,810 metres above sea level. Titicaca is the second largest lake of South America (after Maracaibo). It covers some 8,300 square km. It covers 190 km north to south and around 80 km east to west. It also is the border between Peru and Bolivia. In the snow-covered Cordillera Real in the northeast shore of the lake, mountain peaks reach 6500 meters. The lake is between 150 and 180 meters deep and near the Bolivia side nearly 300 meters deep. More than 25 rivers empty their waters into Titicaca. The lake consists of 41 islands some very densely populated. UYUNI SALT FLATS Video The spectacular arid, windswept salt flat in south western Bolivia at 3,656 metres above sea level, covers an area of 10600 square kilometres. The Uyuni Salt Flat, Bolivia’s largest salt-encrusted waste area, is separated from the Coipasa Salt Flat, a similar but smaller feature to the north, by a range of hills. Vast reserves of untapped Lithium lie beneath the salt flat, and we hear Chinese have started mining the area. Uyuni is a windswept expanse that is even more extensive than Lake Titicaca. South of the Uyuni Salt Flat are the much smaller Lakes Colorado and Verde, as well as hot springs, geysers, and a rich variety of wildlife, all at the base of picturesque inactive volcanoes. This highland region is another must see area. MOUNT SAJAMA Is an extinct volcano and the highest peak in Bolivia at 6542 meters. Interesting fact is that the boundary is just 20 meters away from the border with Chile. A track runs along the south-eastern flank of the volcano, with additional roads completing a circle around Sajama. The town of Sajama lies on its western foot, with further villages at Caripe northeast and Lagunas southwest of the mountain CLIMATE The climate of Bolivia varies drastically from one eco-region to the other, from the tropics in the east and north west to a cold and windy climate in the central and south west of Bolivia. Winters are very cold in the west, and it snows in the mountain ranges, while in the western regions, windy days are more common. The autumn is dry in the non-tropical regions. While in the north it is rainy and humid in the wet season and dry and warm during the rest of the year. LA PAZ The summers are short, cool, and overcast and the winters are short, very cold, dry, and partly cloudy. Summers are between 5 degrees at night to 18 degrees during the day. Winters are between -5 degrees at night and 15 degrees during the day. Most rainfall is between Dec and March with around 75mm per month. April to Oct are the dry months. Rain can fall as snow on the higher parts of the city (Alto Plano) UYUNI Uyuni’s climate is a desert one. There is virtually no rainfall during the year. Summer temperatures are around 5 degrees at night to 21 degrees during the day. Winter temperatures are around minus 6 degrees to 13 degrees during the day Average rainfall: 150 mm per year but no rainfall between April and November. POTOSI The climate in Potosí is referred to as a local steppe climate with low rainfall (350mm Per annum) Summer temperatures are around 5 degrees at night to 17 degrees during the day. Winter temperatures are around minus 5 degrees to 15 degrees during the day Rain also falls as snow on a few days of the year SUCRE Sucre’s climate is classified as warm and temperate. When compared with winter, the summers have much more rainfall. Summer temperatures are around 12 degrees at night to 24 degrees during the day. Winter temperatures are around 5 degrees at night to 22 degrees during the day Rainfall: from Nov to March with average of 700mm per annum TARIJA In Tarija, there is little rainfall throughout the year. Summer temperatures are around 14 degrees at night to 30 degrees during the day. Winter temperatures are around 3 degrees at night to 22 degrees during the day Rainfall: from Nov to March with average of 550 mm per annum COPACABANA (Lake Titicaca) The climate in Copacabana is warm and temperate. When compared with winter, the summers have much more rainfall. Summer temperatures are around 6 degrees at night to 17 degrees during the day. Winter temperatures are around 0 degrees at night to 16 degrees during the day Wettest months from Oct to March. Yearly rainfall around 800 mm RURRENABAQUE Rurrenabaque climate is classified as tropical. There is a great deal of rainfall in Rurrenabaque, even in the driest month. Summer temperatures are around 22 degrees at night to 32 degrees during the day. Winter temperatures are around 16 degrees at night to 30 degrees during the day Wettest months from Oct to May. Yearly rainfall around 2000 mm SAJAMA It is cold all year long. Summer temperatures are around 0 degrees at night to 15 degrees during the day. Winter temperatures are around minus 10 degrees at night to 3 degrees during the day Wettest months Jan/Feb. Yearly rainfall around 380 mm (200 mm falls in the months of Jan/Feb) RIBERALTA Climate is tropical. The summers here have a good deal of rainfall, while the winters have very little. Summer temperatures are around 22 degrees at night to 35 degrees during the day. Winter temperatures are around 20 degrees at night to 33 degrees during the day Wettest months Oct to May. Yearly rainfall around 1800 mm. PART 2, BLOG PICTURES AND GALLERIES Tarija to Sucre Our Entry into Bolivia: A Bumpy Start Our entry into Bolivia didn’t exactly go like clockwork. It turns out Bolivia has a rule: only one vehicle can be temporarily imported per person. So, when the friendly customs officer tried to process a separate Temporary Import Permit (TIP) for our scooter, the computer flagged an issue—Robert Van Den Hoven had already imported a vehicle, and a second one (the scooter) wasn’t allowed. After some quick thinking, we explained to the officer that I (Robert) would sell the scooter to Clary. A few phone calls later by the friendly and helpfull custom officer, 4 more stamps on paper we did not understand and everything was sorted. The scooter is now officially owned by Clary, and we were good to go. Welcome to Bolivia. After an overnight stop along the way, we arrived in Tarija — which the locals proudly call the nicest town in Bolivia. Nestled between valleys, forests, and plains on the eastern side of the country, Tarija enjoys a beautiful and varied landscape. It is also home to Bolivia’s main wine-producing region, boasting some of the highest-altitude vineyards in the world. Our next destination was Sucre—often hailed by locals as Bolivia’s most beautiful city. We decided to park our truck at a small camp area run by Alberto and Felicidad (think: their backyard), which came highly recommended on iOverlander. It was a popular spot, and luckily, there was just one site left when we arrived. The location was unbeatable—right in the heart of the city. We ended up staying longer than planned, thanks to the great company and the warm hospitality of our wonderful hosts. We explored the colourful markets and did some shopping, including a visit to the farmers’ market at Mercado Central. On the top floor, you can sample traditional Bolivian cuisine—though it’s wise to make sure your stomach is used to the local food, as hygiene standards may differ from what you’re used to. As we exited the market, we passed the butchers’ section, where vendors enthusiastically tried to sell us their goods. Bloodied meat and animal carcasses were openly displayed—a raw and unfiltered glimpse into the local food culture. You can’t walk past the freshly made juices sold in the Mercado plaza without being tempted. We had hoped to visit the famous Tarabuco Market—held only on Sundays—located about 40 km east of Sucre. It’s where the Yampara people, dressed in traditional clothing, come to shop and trade. Just outside Sucre, we explored La Glorieta Castle, a whimsical pink fairy-tale structure with an equally fascinating history. It was home to Prince Francisco and Princess Clotilde, both known for their charitable work. Prince Francisco amassed his wealth through shares in the Potosí silver mine. The building now belongs to the military and stands empty. For international tourists, the entry fee is double what Bolivians pay—an unfortunate but common reality. Sucre’s General Cemetery is a place of quiet reverence, with endless rows of stacked graves hidden behind glass-plated shrines. These mini-memorials are filled with photos, flowers, and personal objects that once meant something to the deceased. It’s deeply moving. Although we didn’t see any children working during our visit, we were told that over 100 children are employed here, caring for graves and offering tours to visitors. We had high hopes for the viewpoint at the top of the mountain, but trees blocked most of the panorama, leaving us disappointed. Fortunately, we were tipped off about La Recoleta. After descending the mountain, we drove over to that area instead—and were rewarded with far better views over the city of Sucre than from the summit. Potosi & the workplace from hell It was time to leave Sucre. Our next destination: Potosí—one of the highest cities in the world, perched nearly 4,300 meters above sea level. Cold and austere, the landscape here feels almost otherworldly. Yet, back in 1600, this remote Andean outpost was among the richest cities on Earth—larger and more populous than any in Europe at the time. Potosí: A Legacy of Silver and Struggle When the Spanish arrived in the 1500s, the riches of Potosí’s silver mines became the lifeblood of the empire, fueling centuries of prosperity and empire-building. Over the next 300 years, countless shiploads of silver were transported from these mines, making Potosí one of the wealthiest cities in the world. However, as the silver began to dry up, the city slowly transformed. Today, despite the fact that miners earn four times the average wage in Bolivia, Potosí remains one of the poorest regions in the country. While small amounts of silver are still extracted, the main wealth today comes from tin, copper, and lead. During our visit, we explored Potosí on the day before and after our tour. Maneuvering our 7-meter-long, 3.7-meter-high truck through the narrow, winding streets of this high-altitude city presented a significant challenge. For a while, it felt like a journey reminiscent of our travels in India, Pakistan, and Nepal—where traffic, chaos, and tight spaces are a part of the experience. But this time, it was more than just the physical difficulty of navigating the streets; it was also a metaphor for the complexities of Potosí itself—where the remnants of an imperial past coexist with the struggles of modern life. Cerro Rico, or Potosí Mountain, often referred to as the “Gates of Hell,” is not a place for the faint of heart. Before embarking on our tour, we made a stop at the miners’ market, an intriguing and slightly unsettling place. Here, we had the chance to purchase sticks of dynamite, along with various other explosives. It felt surreal to hold such dangerous items in a market that seemed both vibrant and haunting. Among the goods for sale was pure grain alcohol (96%), but our guide, Wilson, kindly advised against purchasing it. He explained that many of the miners already consumed far too much of it to cope with the harsh conditions they faced deep within the mountain. The alcohol, along with the explosives, gave us a chilling insight into the dangerous, yet necessary, tools these miners relied on for survival in one of the world’s most treacherous mining environments. We set off with a bag full of explosives—legally purchased in Potosí—and were soon outfitted in overalls, hard hats, and gum boots. After a short drive halfway up Mount Cerro de Potosí, we received our final safety instructions. We had already signed an accident waiver, acknowledging that we were entering at our own risk and without insurance. Wilson, our guide, gave us some crucial advice. He warned us not to fall into any holes, as a Japanese tourist had done previously, which tragically led to his death. He also reminded us not to ignite the dynamite accidentally and to avoid hitting our heads in the low-ceilinged tunnels. We began our descent into the mine, crawling on our knees for the first 100 meters before we could finally stand upright. The first stop was El Tío, the devil god of the mountain. Grateful for the chance to catch my breath, I listened as Wilson explained the significance of El Tío. He said that if miners appease him, he might reward them with the discovery of a rich mineral deposit. However, if you upset him, you risk facing cave-ins or worse. Wilson poured pure alcohol over the statue and offered it a cigarette as a token of respect. As we continued deeper into the mine, Wilson shared a bit of history. In the 16th century, Potosí was one of the wealthiest cities in the world, but today it has fallen into poverty. The miners no longer work for a centralized employer. Instead, they take out contracts for plots of land on the mountain, becoming subcontractors who supply everything themselves and sell their findings to buyers in town. Despite the official ban on child labor, it’s common to see children as young as ten working in the mines, though Wilson explained this practice is illegal. It was both shocking and humbling to witness the miners and children, working tirelessly in grueling conditions every day. At one point, we saw Roberto, a miner, wedged in a narrow crevice above us, busy with his work. He gladly accepted our dynamite and demonstrated how to detonate it. After moving to a safe distance, we braced ourselves for the explosion. The ground shook, followed by a deafening thud. The air was thick with dust, and the sticky humidity pressed against our faces, marking the intensity of the moment. Roberto had detonated our present, believing it would bring him more money. Afterward, we climbed a massive dust hill, only to face the exhilarating, yet sobering experience of sliding back down. But this was no tourist attraction—it was a real, working mine. We witnessed firsthand the harsh reality miners endure every day. The lack of health and safety protocols was stark—there were none to speak of—and the conditions were grueling. Every day, 28,000 miners scrape away at the earth, extracting whatever ore they can. The air is thick with dust, and it’s almost certain that most, if not all, of them will eventually suffer from silicosis, cancer, or other severe lung diseases. It was a deeply humbling experience, one that highlighted the immense toll this work takes on their bodies and lives. In this small town, mining remains the most profitable, yet perilous, livelihood. For teenage boys and men striving to support their families, it’s the only option, despite the heavy cost. The average life expectancy of miners hovers around 40 years, a grim reminder of the toll this dangerous work takes. The mines themselves are no safer today than they were years ago. They lie at altitudes between 4,300 and 4,900 meters, where even the simplest task is a struggle due to the thin air. Crawling through these dark, narrow tunnels, we found ourselves gasping for breath, unable to fathom the toll it takes to work down there day in and day out. And yet, this harsh environment remains the primary source of income for the town. The silver that once brought prosperity to this place has long since been depleted, but the mines continue to operate, extracting what little is left. In a town where alternatives are few, the risks are outweighed by the pressing need to survive. The work is exhausting, the dangers immense, but for those trying to feed their families, it remains the only way. The Mine’s Dark Heart: An Adventure Into the Depths We knew the risks from the start. The statistics were clear — around 35 miners lose their lives each year in this mine. But only one tourist, so we were told, had ever met the same fate — a tragic fall down a shaft, lost to the depths. The mine, still a working operation, had seen over 500 years of blood, sweat, and tragedy. It had claimed countless lives, but its heart continued to beat. There was something irresistible about it — something that whispered, “come, and experience the pulse of history, where danger and labor meet in the blackest depths of the earth.” Our guide was a weathered miner, his face lined with years of work underground, his hands rough from the constant grind of hard labor. He was no historian or actor in a museum exhibit; he was a living testament to the mine’s brutal legacy. As we gathered around, he made sure we understood the rules — we would sign the waiver, of course. There were no health and safety regulations down here, no precautions to keep us safe. This wasn’t a sanitized tour. This was the real thing. The air smelled of damp earth and iron, and the faint sound of distant drills echoed through the tunnels, a reminder that the mine was still very much alive. We descended into the labyrinth of deep shafts, the stone walls narrowing as we plunged further into the earth’s belly. The tour was no fairy tale. Our feet slipped on the muddy, uneven ground as we followed the miners through the dark, winding tunnels. Their lanterns cast long shadows against the jagged walls, and the creaking of the timbers holding back the mountain above us seemed almost to echo our unease. At one point, we found ourselves at a steep incline, a rickety ladder leading down into another shaft. The miner nodded, gesturing for us to follow. “This is where it gets real,” he said, his voice gravelly, his eyes gleaming with the unspoken understanding that those of us who came down here would never quite leave unchanged. We climbed down, one by one, gripping the rusty rungs as the sounds of creaking wood and shifting earth reverberated around us. Each step seemed to take us closer to the bowels of the earth, where death had long been a companion to the miners who worked in these very tunnels. As we reached the bottom, the shaft opened into an eerie chamber — a narrow tunnel where the low hum of machinery and the crackling of old dynamite echoed faintly. The air felt thick, and dust hung like a shroud, making each breath feel heavier. It wasn’t just the miners working here now, but ghosts of the past. For centuries, men and boys had toiled in these very passages, sometimes without ever seeing the light of day. The dim flicker of lanterns illuminated the faces of the child laborers who had once worked here — children who had no choice but to crawl through the narrowest parts of the mine, their small bodies the perfect fit for the dangerous, cramped conditions. We were told about them — the boys as young as eight, working long hours alongside men far older, all driven by the same ruthless demand for coal and ore. The grim reality of child labor was an uncomfortable reminder that this was not merely an adventure but a walk through history — a history scarred by exploitation and suffering. But the further we went, the more we understood why people still came. There was an undeniable draw to this place, despite its dangers. Maybe it was the history, the ghostly whispers of those who had labored and died here, or perhaps it was the stark reality of human survival — the will to keep going despite the odds. But the mine’s future was grim. Wilson, a former miner who had become our unofficial historian for the day, warned us that the mine would not last much longer. The structural integrity was deteriorating, and it was only a matter of decades before it would collapse entirely. “Thirty to fifty years,” he said, his voice heavy with both sorrow and resolve. As we ventured deeper, each moment in the mine felt like an eternity. The deeper we went, the more we realized that the danger wasn’t just physical. It was in the air, the long history of suffering, the young faces that had come and gone, and the knowledge that each tunnel we walked through had seen death, both recent and long past. Yet still, the miners continued their work — a rhythm that could not be stopped. It was a dangerous dance between man and nature, a rhythm that had been beating for over 500 years. Despite the death toll, despite the countless miners who had lost their lives, we had to see it for ourselves. The slogan rang in our minds: “YOU NEVER NEVER KNOW IF YOU NEVER NEVER GO.” And so we went. The adventure was more than just a tour. It was an experience. One we would carry with us long after the darkness of the mine faded from our eyes. A journey into the very heart of a place that had claimed so many lives — and yet, for all the danger, the history, and the suffering, we had ventured where few dared. Because in the end, when faced with the stark truth of the mine’s past, we realized something. No matter how much we know, no matter how much we prepare, there’s always that element of the unknown, like overlanding around the world. And that, perhaps, is the true allure of the mine. As our slogan states: YOU NEVER NEVER KNOW IF YOU NEVER NEVER GO On Facebook I found this video clip about child labour it is called The Devil’s Miner a documentary about child labour inside Cerro Rico. Salar de Uyuni We arrived in Uyuni around midday and parked our truck near the train graveyard just outside of town. This eerie site, a collection of abandoned trains, dates back to the 1940s and 50s when they were used by mining companies. However, as the mining industry collapsed, the trains were left to rust in place, resulting in what is now known as the “train cemetery.” The town itself owes its existence to the nearby Salar de Uyuni, but the graveyard was a quiet, surreal spot to explore. We spent about an hour wandering around, soaking in the atmosphere of rusted metal and forgotten history. It wasn’t long before we had seen enough of the scene, and it felt like just the right amount of time to take it all in. The Salar de Uyuni is one of the most striking landscapes on Earth. As the largest salt flat in the world, it spans over 10,000 square kilometers and sits at an elevation of 4,000 meters above sea level. The vast, uninterrupted salt crust stretches all the way to the horizon, creating an almost surreal, otherworldly scene. During the rainy season, the flat becomes a giant mirror, perfectly reflecting the sky above and amplifying the breathtaking beauty of the area. In the dry season, the salt formations themselves are mesmerizing, with intricate hexagonal patterns that seem to stretch endlessly across the land. The sheer scale of the Salar, combined with its stark and dramatic beauty, makes it one of the most extreme and awe-inspiring vistas in the world. During our two-night stay in the region, we experienced a stark contrast between the days and nights. The days were bright and clear, but the nights were bitterly cold, dipping to minus 10 degrees Celsius. The landscape was striking, with a solid salt crust that varied in thickness, ranging from 10 cm to several meters in places. We had the opportunity to speak with the locals, who shared that the area is rich in valuable minerals, particularly lithium and magnesium. Of the two, lithium is the most important due to its crucial role in the rapidly expanding market for rechargeable batteries. As demand grows for laptops, smartphones, and, especially, electric vehicles, lithium has become a vital resource, powering the technologies that drive modern life. The region’s remote and rugged environment, coupled with its extreme temperatures, underscores the challenging nature of lithium extraction here. Despite the harsh conditions, mining operations continue to thrive, shaping the future of the global technology and energy sectors. Bolivia is home to 43% of the world’s lithium reserves, with much of it concentrated in the Salar de Uyuni. In addition to its rich mineral deposits, the Salar contains an estimated 11 billion tonnes of salt. The immense flatness of the Salar is striking, with its altitude varying by just 50 cm across its vast expanse—a true testament to its remarkable level of flatness. The sensation of infinity here is awe-inspiring. Located within the Altiplano, part of the high Andes, the Salar de Uyuni is situated on the world’s second-largest plateau. The surrounding scenery is equally breathtaking, with towering volcanoes, steaming hot springs, and snow-capped mountains creating a dramatic backdrop. The beauty of this region is unlike any other, and it’s a place we were eager to revisit during the wet season of 2019. Should the Salar de Uyuni be mined as it will destroy the Salar? T For Bolivia (one of the poorest countries in the world) the question is: are they prepared to give in to the world hungry for resources and reap the rewards of mineral wealth to be able to offer impoverished people better lives but potentially destroy the Salar (and eco system) in the process? Alternatively, they could ask the world to pay them to leave the Lithium in the ground………. SALAR DE UYUNI TO LA PAZ. After spending three days in Uyuni, it was time to head north toward La Paz, 600 km away. The road was mostly flat and in excellent condition, stretching between 3,800 and 4,100 meters above sea level. We bush-camped along the way, enjoying the remote high-altitude landscapes. The only major town we passed was Oruro, home to around 270,000 people and situated at 3,800 meters. It’s the fifth-largest city in Bolivia. In our opinion, it’s a rather dirty city that relies heavily on mining—mainly tin, silver, and copper. From Oruro, the road turned into a double-lane highway all the way to La Paz. About 20 kilometers before reaching the city, we took a shortcut toward the suburb of Malasa. This marked our first real challenge: navigating La Paz’s steep, narrow streets after a wrong turn. La Paz is a unique city, divided into three main areas—La Paz, El Alto, and Viacha—with a combined population of about 2.5 million. The city sits in a deep valley surrounded by towering mountains, including Mount Illimani, which rises to 6,600 meters above sea level. La Paz’s bustling streets are not for the fainthearted—narrow, steep, and packed with traffic. After two years of relatively civilized travel in South America, the chaotic pace here was a shock to the system. The honking, weaving vehicles reminded us of the intense traffic in India, Pakistan, and Nepal. But, as the saying goes, “When in Rome…”—so we joined in: beep the horn and never stop. One advantage we had was some acclimatization; after spending the past three weeks at around 4,000 meters, we were somewhat used to the altitude. Still, every steep climb left us breathless—a constant reminder of how high above sea level we really were. We loved La Paz—it’s chaotic, but somehow it works. Life in La Paz takes place largely on the streets, especially in the old quarters, where the entire area feels like one sprawling market. Exploring the city can be exhausting due to the high altitude, but there’s a unique rhythm to it that draws you in. Since 2014, La Paz has been home to the Teleférico, the longest and highest urban cable car network in the world, operating between 3,600 and 4,200 meters above sea level. It’s also the first city in the world to use cable cars as its main form of public transportation. Today, the system includes seven lines—Green, Yellow, Blue, White, Orange, Light Blue, and Red—each with multiple stops. Riding the Teleférico is not just practical; it’s one of the best ways to see the sprawling beauty and vertical complexity of La Paz. As we watch the city below from the cable cars—gliding silently above patios and peering into homes—we can’t help but wonder what the people down there think of us. What was once a journey of over an hour from the city centre of La Paz to the suburb of El Alto now takes just 10 minutes, thanks to this remarkable aerial cable car system. Capable of transporting over 3,000 people per hour, the system offers an affordable and efficient alternative to the traditional bus ride. The fare is just 3 Bolivianos (approximately 0.60 Australian dollars or 0.40 Euros), compared to the 1.5 Bolivianos for the hour-long bus trip (around 0.30 Australian dollars or 0.20 Euros). Constructed by Doppelmayr, an Austrian company renowned globally for ski lifts and cable car systems, the project incorporates environmentally conscious design. It runs on electricity and solar energy, contributing to a reduction in urban smog. While ultra-modern and impressively clean, the system can seem visually out of place amid the historic architecture of La Paz. Nevertheless, its impact has been significant. It currently provides employment for hundreds of people, and during peak construction, it created over 1,400 jobs. The total investment was reportedly just over 280 million USD. Beyond its practical benefits, the ride offers a unique panoramic perspective of La Paz and provides easy access to El Alto, the world’s highest metropolis at 4,200 meters above sea level. El Alto Market – A Chaotic Wonderland in the Sky During our three visits to Bolivia, we twice had the unforgettable experience of exploring the sprawling open-air market in El Alto. Held every Thursday and Sunday, this market is the largest of its kind in Bolivia—stretching across nearly seven square kilometers. On market days, the main roads are closed to traffic as the stalls overflow into the side streets, creating a maze of commerce and color. Everything imaginable is for sale here. From vehicles and car parts to second-hand shoes, toothbrushes, clothing, and watches. You’ll find televisions, radios, massive sofas and cabinets, beds, and even medical equipment. Pirated CDs, DVDs, computer software, and knock-off electronics like fake iPods are sold openly. It’s a fascinating mix of the necessary, the unusual, and the completely unexpected. What stands out most, beyond the sheer scale and variety, is the vibrant energy of the market—driven largely by the indigenous women who run the majority of the stalls. Dressed in traditional attire, they manage their spaces with both pride and precision, negotiating prices and engaging with customers in a swirl of voices, languages, and laughter. The El Alto market isn’t just a place to shop—it’s a cultural experience, a testament to resilience, and a glimpse into the everyday lives of thousands of Bolivians. It’s chaotic, yes—but wonderfully so. Another very interesting area is the Witches’ Market, or Mercado de las Brujas. The stores and stalls are full of colourful potions claiming to cure everything from headaches to how to control your husband, as well as infertility remedies and more. You can buy dried frogs, medicinal plants, mysterious powders, and most strikingly—dried llama foetuses. In fact, in many shops, you’ll even see dead baby llamas hanging from the ceilings. Our guide explained that many of these are stillbirths. To be fair to the Bolivians, in Bolivia, llama foetuses are considered sacred. They are traditionally buried beneath the foundations of new homes as an offering to the goddess Pachamama, believed to bring good luck and protection. We’ve visited many cities around the world, but very few can compare to the dramatic setting of La Paz. Like many large cities, it’s a mix of the traditional and the modern, but what’s especially striking are the shanties clinging to the steep valley slopes—on gradients you would hardly believe possible. This is home to many poor people in the poorest country in South America. We were parked at the car park of Hotel Oberland in Zona Sur, the better area of La Paz. More important for us was that the hotel sits at just 3,300 meters—warmer than central La Paz, and a lot warmer than El Alto. Life is cheap in Bolivia, but you do need to negotiate; even for our diesel, it was a constant battle to avoid paying the international price of 8 Bolivianos per liter, while the local price is just 3 Bolivianos. We were hoping to visit the Cholita Wrestling, but we ran out of time—and it’s only on Thursdays, we were told. Cholitas are indigenous women wearing traditional skirts and bowler hats. They wrestle each other in a kind of theatrical fight meant to entertain the crowd. However, we were also told the whole experience is extremely fake. LA PAZ TO THE PERU BORDER Leaving La Paz for Copacabana ended up taking us over three hours after a wrong turn set us back. Traffic was absolute mayhem—minibuses do whatever they like, and the police seem to have little control. One surprisingly funny aspect of La Paz traffic, though, is the dancing zebras. These are Bolivians dressed in zebra costumes who dash in front of cars to make sure drivers obey red lights. It’s bizarre, chaotic, and incredibly entertaining to watch. (Note: The photos of the human zebras aren’t ours—check out our video clip for our version!) Once we left La Paz, the roads improved and traffic thinned out. Copacabana, Bolivia’s only beach resort, was buzzing with backpackers. We found the perfect spot on the lakeshore and spent four restful days soaking in the peaceful atmosphere. The town is known for its 16th-century Basilica, home to the revered Virgin of Copacabana. However, the real highlight is exploring Lake Titicaca—especially the boat trips to Isla del Sol, the sacred island central to Inca mythology. Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable freshwater lake in the world, situated at just under 3,850 meters (12,600 feet) above sea level. It holds deep cultural and spiritual significance for the locals, who refer to it as the birthplace of the sun and moon. For many Bolivians, it is also South America’s largest lake, though some dispute this claim, considering Lake Maracaibo in Venezuela to be the continent’s largest. The dispute stems from the fact that Lake Maracaibo is brackish, and some view it more as an inlet of the Caribbean Sea rather than a true lake. This distinction has made the debate between the two lakes a source of pride for the Bolivians, who defend the claim of Lake Titicaca as the largest freshwater lake in South America. Stretching across 8,300 square kilometers, Lake Titicaca spans 190 kilometers in length and reaches a width of up to 80 kilometers at its broadest point. Its striking blue waters, surrounded by majestic Andean mountains, are not just a natural wonder but also a reflection of the ancient Andean civilizations that once thrived on its shores. Lake Titicaca, nestled between the Andean mountain ranges, lies within a vast basin that spans over 58,000 square kilometers, all part of the Altiplano region. The surrounding mountains rise as high as 6,400 meters above sea level, creating a breathtaking backdrop. On average, the lake reaches a depth of about 180 meters, with its deepest point plunging to 280 meters. Despite the steady inflow of water from over 25 rivers, evaporation is significant due to the intense sun and strong winds that sweep across the lake’s surface. The lake is home to more than 40 islands, with some, like Isla del Sol, being densely populated. The local Aymara people, who live along the shores, continue to practice ancient farming methods on stepped terraces dating back to Inca times. Their primary crops include barley and other grains, a testament to their deep connection with the land. On the Peruvian side of the lake, the Uru people maintain their traditional way of life, residing on floating islands made entirely of reeds. They also craft boats from reed bundles, relying on the natural resources around them. Next year (2019), we plan to explore this fascinating part of Lake Titicaca and immerse ourselves in its rich culture and history. We decided to visit Isla del Sol by ferry, and our journey was made even more memorable by the opportunity to meet locals along the way. The ferry ride offered a unique glimpse into daily life, as we chatted with people and took in the stunning scenery. Once on the island, we explored its rich history and were awed by the ancient Inca ruins that dot the landscape. On the way back to Copacabana, we made a stop at Isla de la Luna, home to more fascinating Inca ruins. It was incredible to see how the ancient civilization utilized the island’s rugged terrain. The following day in Copacabana was market day, and the town center came alive with color and energy. The vibrant stalls were filled with a variety of goods, from local produce to handcrafted items, creating a truly immersive cultural experience. An interesting local tradition we discovered was the custom of driving to Copacabana to have new cars blessed. Thousands of people gather each year to pour beer over their vehicles, seeking a blessing for safe travels. This unique practice blends religious ritual with everyday life, reflecting the deep connection between spirituality and the community. During our trip, we had the opportunity to witness a beautiful cultural tradition. A priest performed a blessing to Pachamama, or Mother Earth, as a gesture of gratitude and respect. After the blessing, the owners poured beer over their car to quench the thirst of Pachamama. Although we weren’t able to see the blessing firsthand, we’re already planning to return next year to witness it. We spent our last night camping by the breathtaking Lake Titicaca, surrounded by its shimmering blue waters. The beauty of the lake, paired with the incredible sunsets and sunrises, truly felt like a slice of heaven. It was the perfect way to conclude our journey, and I’ll carry those peaceful moments with me forever. Our Journey Through Bolivia: First Impressions and Reflections Our first four weeks in Bolivia have come to an end, and while it’s been an unforgettable experience, it’s clear that four weeks is barely enough to scratch the surface of this extraordinary country. Having only explored the western region, we’re already planning our 2 next adventures to cover the east and northern parts of Bolivia in the coming 18 months, entering once from Peru and once from Chile. Bolivia is a country of extraordinary contrasts and extremes. Landlocked and nestled in the heart of South America, it is both the highest and one of the most isolated nations on the continent. Surrounded by Brazil, Peru, Paraguay, Argentina, and Chile, Bolivia’s geography is as diverse as its people. From the towering peaks of the Andes mountains to the vast, low-lying expanses of the Amazon Basin, the landscape is truly remarkable. Home to the largest indigenous population in South America, Bolivians are overwhelmingly of indigenous descent, with nearly 66% of the population identifying as such. This deep indigenous heritage is woven into the country’s social, cultural, and political fabric. Multiple indigenous languages, including Quechua, Aymara, and Guarani, are spoken alongside Spanish, underscoring the country’s commitment to preserving its rich cultural diversity. Bolivia is also blessed with immense natural resources. It holds the second-largest natural gas reserves in South America and is a major player in global mining, with significant deposits of silver, tin, and lithium. The country’s lithium reserves are particularly notable, as they are crucial to the production of batteries for electric vehicles and renewable energy storage, positioning Bolivia at the heart of the global energy transition. However, Bolivia’s economy also faces complex challenges. It is the world’s largest producer of coca, the raw material for cocaine, and for many small farmers, coca cultivation is the only viable source of income. While the plant has cultural and traditional significance for many indigenous communities, its association with the illegal drug trade has led to international pressure for crop reduction. In sum, Bolivia stands as a nation defined by both its rich indigenous heritage and its abundance of natural resources, all within a landscape of striking geographical extremes. Despite its challenges, Bolivia continues to be a place of deep cultural significance and geopolitical importance. We will return next year. Although Bolivia is often regarded as a highland country, only about 33% of its territory lies in the Andes Mountains, where most of the larger cities are located. The remaining 66% is situated in the lowlands, also known as the “warm lands” by locals. These are the areas we plan to explore during our upcoming visit to Bolivia later this year. Bolivian Amazon & Death Road to Chile Border 2019 marks our 15th year on the road, journeying around the world. In 2018 alone, we visited Bolivia three times, and even after three trips, we still haven’t seen it all. In fact, despite 15 years of exploration, we’ve come to realize that no matter how much we travel, there’s always more to discover in every country. As we prepare for our final visit to Bolivia, we’re excited to continue our adventure further north into South America. Every new destination brings its own unique experiences, and the journey is far from over. Bolivia is a landlocked country around 1500km north to south and 1200km east to west. It is known as an Andean country but only 30% is highland the rest is low land and Amazon territory. However, it is the western region where the larger cities are and the Capital La Paz. This part makes Bolivia one of the highest populated areas in the world (at 3500 to 4500 meters). North and south west of La Paz are the highest areas up to 6550 meters with Mount Sajama near the Chile Border and Cordillera Real around 6100 meters. The snow-capped peaks are an amazing sight on a nice day. For over 300 km lies the Altiplano at elevations of around 3800 to 4000 meters. Our recent trips to Bolivia were centered around exploring the Pampas and the Amazon region, and despite it being the wet season, we were eager to experience the lush, tropical environment at its fullest. Our journey began in Alto Plano and La Paz, the highest capital city in the world, perched at 4,000 meters above sea level. During our last visit, we were greeted by snow and sleet; this time, the weather was slightly more forgiving, though still chilly. We had spent a week in La Paz on our previous visit, but this time, our stay was brief—just two days—as we were headed toward the tropical Amazon region of Rurrenabaque and Santa Rosa. However, before we could reach the warmth of the lowlands, we had one more ascent to make: we climbed to 4,650 meters at La Cumbre Pass. From there, we began the long, exhilarating descent. The road, often referred to as the “Death Road” by locals, had once been infamous for claiming up to 300 lives annually around 2010. Although a new road is being built, certain stretches remain as perilous as ever. The 35 km journey to Coroico was an unforgettable experience: descending from the high-altitude pass at 4,650 meters to just over 1,200 meters, passing through deep valleys, narrow one-lane tracks, and thick, verdant forest that gradually transformed into rainforest. Bolivia As we descended into the Yungas—Bolivia’s warm, tropical lowlands—we marveled at the stunning landscapes. Yet, the road was a stark reminder of its dangerous past. We passed through areas where vehicles had failed to make it, marked by crosses and wreckage in the valley below. The road was often just wide enough for our truck, at 2.5 meters, to navigate the 3-meter-wide track, with sheer cliffs dropping away for up to 1,000 meters. This thrilling descent marked our arrival in the lush, humid region of the Amazon, and the contrast with the cool, high-altitude air was striking. The lush tropical foliage, the humidity, and the wildlife were a world away from the stark, windswept altitudes of La Paz. Return Journey through the Andes and into the Amazon Our return journey was marked by rain and dense fog, which made the track dangerously slippery and muddy, with visibility reduced to almost nothing. Because of the thick fog, we couldn’t complete the upper section of the infamous Death Road and had to settle for just the lower stretch. Even so, we couldn’t help but feel that the roads in northwest India and Pakistan posed an even greater challenge—mainly due to the sheer volume of traffic and the frequent need to reverse along narrow paths. Our next destination was Rurrenabaque, located in Bolivia’s Amazonian zone. After the cold, windy weather of La Paz, adjusting to the sweltering 38°C heat took some time. Rurrenabaque lies at the edge of Madidi National Park, which was established in 1995 and is one of the most biologically diverse areas on Earth. The park spans a staggering range of altitudes—from the Amazonian lowlands at 200 meters to nearly 6,000 meters above sea level in the Andes. This is truly where the Amazon meets the Andes, and the shift in climate, terrain, and culture was both dramatic and unforgettable. We explored a vast region of rainforest, rivers, wetlands (pampas), and—surprisingly—even glaciers. Our guide explained that this incredible ecosystem extends into Peru, where it’s known as the Manu Biosphere Reserve. The locals told us it’s one of the largest protected areas in the world—something we’ve heard before, but here it really feels true. To cross the Beni River, we still had to take a ferry, though we were told that the long-awaited bridge should be ready next year. While visiting the pampas just outside Santa Rosa, about 120 km north of Rurrenabaque, we discovered an amazing campsite on Lake Bravo. The scenery was stunning, and the peace was only disturbed by one thing: mosquitos—so come prepared! The Pampas & Madidi: Beauty and Threats For us, the highlight of the Pampas was the incredible pink dolphins. Reaching up to 2.7 meters in length and weighing as much as 140 kilos, they are the largest freshwater dolphins in the world. (See the Nat Geo video clip—we had trouble capturing them on film ourselves!) https://video.nationalgeographic.com/video/00000144-0a28-d3cb-a96c-7b2d1ba00000 However, the region isn’t without its challenges. There are growing concerns about a proposed dam project at the Beni River in the Bala Gorge. If approved, this dam would flood a significant portion of Madidi National Park, one of Bolivia’s ecological treasures. Another pressing issue is the construction of the Ixiamas to Apolo road, which appears to serve mainly timber harvesting interests. This development also threatens the integrity of Madidi National Park. After exploring Madidi and the Pampas near Santa Rosa, we camped at El Mirador in Rurrenabaque. It’s a fantastic spot perched on a hill, featuring a beautiful swimming pool and a warm, welcoming host named Pepe. It’s worth noting that many people don’t realize the Amazon region spans more than just Brazil. Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, and a small part of Venezuela make up 30% of the Amazon’s area—Brazil covers the other 70%. After spending a week at El Mirador, we decided it was time to seek out cooler weather and explore new regions. Our plan was to slowly make our way toward the Chilean border, aiming to enter Peru from Arica in the far north of Chile. As we arrived in La Paz from the north, we unknowingly timed our entry with market day—and chaos quickly ensued. The traffic was gridlocked, streets were blocked, and Maps.me became completely confused. It rerouted us through one-way streets, dead ends, and even roads with a terrifying 36% gradient. At one point, I couldn’t even stop the truck at intersections, so I just had to inch forward and hope other drivers would yield! Crossing La Paz: From Chaos to Carnival No laws seemed to apply. Police officers blew their whistles in vain, ignored by a sea of impatient drivers. Cars jumped red lights with impunity, and nearly every intersection was a tangled mess of honking, rule-defying vehicles. It took us over three hours to cross just 11 kilometers through La Paz. Our journey began on the north side of the city, descending from the dizzying heights of 4,200 meters down to the valley floor at 3,200 meters, before climbing again to the southern suburb of El Alto, perched at around 4,100 meters near the airport. The dramatic altitude shifts alone are enough to leave anyone breathless—but the chaos on the streets added a whole new level of intensity. Unlike during our previous visit, we never saw the iconic “human zebras” this time. These costumed traffic wardens—dressed in zebra suits—usually help pedestrians cross the street safely and try to encourage drivers to respect traffic laws. Their playful yet firm presence has become a beloved symbol of civic spirit in La Paz. Without them, the sense of disorder felt even more palpable. Leaving the capital behind, we entered the department of Oruro. The city of Oruro is famous for hosting the biggest carnival in South America after Rio de Janeiro—a spectacular celebration of music, dance, and deep-rooted tradition. The contrast between the frenetic chaos of La Paz and the festive spirit that awaited us in Oruro couldn’t have been starker. Our next stop was Curahuara, a charming little village typical of the Altiplano, best known for its historic church built in 1806. From there, we continued to Sajama National Park, where we were treated to stunning views of Bolivia’s highest peak, rising to 6,550 meters. The weather, however, was harsh—cold, snowing, and generally miserable. It took some time to readjust to the altitude at 4,300 meters above sea level, so we decided to move on the following day. Crossing the border into Chile proved to be an adventure in itself. This particular crossing processes around 500 trucks a day, and the line on the Bolivian side stretched for at least 5 kilometers. With only two lanes—one of them blocked by the long line of trucks—navigating through with oncoming traffic was quite a challenge. Leaving Bolivia was a breeze, taking less than five minutes, but the entry into Chile was a different story. The customs process there stretched over two hours, complete with the usual car inspection. Meanwhile, at 4680 meters, the snow was still falling, the temperature hovered around 1°C, and the wind made it all the more unbearable. After the lengthy border wait, I decided it was time to descend to a more comfortable altitude. “Welcome back to Chile! If memory serves me right, this marks my eighth crossing into this beautiful country. We made my way down to the town of Putre, at 3750 meters, for an overnight camp. The change in scenery and elevation was a relief, especially knowing that tomorrow would bring the warmth of Arica on the coast, where I’d be spending Christmas with friends on the beach. A much-needed respite after the harsh mountain weather! PART 3, VIDEOS COMPILATION BOLIVIA PART 1, La Paz, Death Road, Bolivia Low lands, (Pampas) Madidi National Park & Lake Titicaca COMPILATION BOLIVIA PART 2, La Paz, Salar de Yuni, Potosi and South East Bolivia BOLIVIA VIDEO CLIPS Bolivia Part 1 Tarija to Sucre Bolivia Part 2 Sucre to Potosi Bolivia Part 3 Potosi to Salar the Uyuni Bolivia Part 4 Salar the Uyuni Bolivia Part 5 Salar the Ununi to La Paz Bolivia Part 6 La Paz to peru Border Bolivia Part 7 Bolivia Amazon Region to Chile border (via the death road) South America Part 1 South America Part 2 (Under Construction) COMPILATION BOLIVIA PART 1, La Paz, Death Road, Bolivia Low lands, (Pampas) Madidi National Park & Lake Titicaca https://www.doubledutchworldsafari.au/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/BOLIVIA-PART-1-LOW-Resolution.mp4 2. VIDEO COMPILATION BOLIVIA PART 2 https://www.doubledutchworldsafari.au/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/BOLIVIA-PART-2-LOW-RES.mp4 3. BOLIVIA VIDEOS 3. Bolivia Part 1 Tarija to Sucre