Northern Territory

THE NORTHERN TERRITORY

PART 1 BLOGS & PICTURES

PART 2 VIDEO CLIPS

Part 1, Blogs and Pictures

Exploring Australia’s True Outback

For many, this is the real outback of Australia: hot, dusty, remote—and utterly unforgettable.

It’s a destination for those who want to travel beyond the well-known icons like Kakadu National Park, Uluru, and the Olga’s. Out here, you’ll find incredible bush camping in areas such as Arnhem Land, steeped in Aboriginal heritage, dotted with remote villages and wild tropical beaches.

The rugged north is a paradise for 4WD enthusiasts who crave challenge and breathtaking scenery. Among the lesser-known gems to explore:

  • Tanami Desert – especially the sections away from the main Tanami Track

  • Northern Simpson Desert – remote, raw, and vast

  • Gregory National Park – dramatic escarpments and gorges

  • Cobourg Peninsula – remote wilderness and rich biodiversity

Must-See Spots (But Expect Crowds):

  • Kakadu National Park

  • The Red Centre sights around Alice Springs

  • Litchfield National Park

  • Ruby Gap Nature Park

And after all that red dust, don’t miss a refreshing swim at Mataranka Hot Springs or Bitter Springs.

Outback Travel Advice for International Overlanders

A word of warning for those new to Australia’s outback, especially overlanders coming from Europe, Africa, or South America: our deserts, beaches, and remote areas are very different.

If you’re heading into remote areas, here are essentials:

  • At least one person trained in first aid

  • Proper comms gear: At minimum a satellite phone and UHF radio. An HF radio is even better (available for rental).

  • Let people know your route and check in on arrival.

Travel well within your capabilities. The terrain can change drastically—deep rutted tracks, bull dust, soft sand, mud, and water crossings… all in one day! This can lead to serious vehicle damage—or worse, leave you stranded mid-stream with a flooded engine.

Crocodile Caution:

In the North, always check before crossing rivers or fishing.

  • Saltwater crocs are extremely dangerous

  • Freshwater crocs may be less aggressive but can still bite and injure seriously

Driving on Beaches:

  • Always drive on an outgoing tide

  • When turning, turn toward the water to avoid soft sand build-up uphill

  • Adjust tyre pressure appropriately—start at 25 psi, drop in 5 psi increments if needed. In our LandCruiser, we’ve gone as low as 10 psi

  • Keep your speed down

Be humble. Don’t become that guy who thinks they know it all—Australia’s outback is unforgiving.

Understanding the Weather

Top End (Darwin Region)

Tropical climate with two main seasons:

  • Dry Season (April–November): Best time to visit, but busiest

  • Wet Season (Dec–April): Heavy rain mostly from Jan–March, with tropical storms, cyclones, and sticky humidity. The “build-up” in Oct–Dec brings intense heat and afternoon thunderstorms.

Central Australia (Alice Springs Area)

A classic desert climate:

  • Mostly clear blue skies, low rainfall, and around 9 hours of sunshine/day

  • Summer: Extremely hot, sometimes exceeding 50°C

  • Winter: Sunny days, frosty mornings

  • Best times to visit:

    • March–May: Warm days and nights

    • Sept–Nov: Wildflowers bloom, but be ready for dust and thunderstorms

 

COBOURG PENINSULA – A Hidden Gem Beyond Kakadu

While most travellers flock to the busy and well-developed Kakadu National Park, few venture further east and north into the remote wilderness of Arnhem Land and the Cobourg Peninsula. But for those who do, an unforgettable adventure awaits.

The Cobourg Peninsula offers an ancient landscape, stunning coastline, and countless secluded billabongs teeming with birdlife—and yes, plenty of crocodiles! The pristine shores near Smiths Point are especially breathtaking, with hidden coves and bays just waiting to be explored. It’s a peaceful, untouched paradise, home to only a handful of residents.

The entire peninsula lies within Garig Gunak Barlu National Park, one of Australia’s best-kept secrets. This is prime croc country, so stay alert when walking the beaches or wandering the tidal flats—especially during low tide. After the wet season, expect to encounter water across many of the tracks. Driving a LandCruiser through floodwaters, with water lapping at the windows, is an adventure you won’t soon forget.

Fishing enthusiasts will be in heaven here. The billabongs are rich with Barramundi and Mangrove Jack, while the coastal waters hold Barracuda, Coral Trout, and Jewfish. But it’s not all about the catch—keep an eye out for the area’s protected marine life, including dolphins, dugongs, sea turtles, and, of course, saltwater crocodiles.

Important tips before you go:

  • Permits are required to enter the Cobourg Peninsula, as it is Aboriginal land.

  • Be croc-wise at all times—this region is known for crocodile activity, and tragic incidents have occurred.

  • When crossing from Kakadu, know your tides. The best time to drive across Cahills Crossing is at least one hour before or after high tide. Get it wrong, and you risk becoming another statistic.

If you’re after true wilderness, deep culture, and raw Australian beauty—far from the crowds—then the Cobourg Peninsula might just be your ultimate destination.

 

ARNHEM LAND – A Journey into the Wilderness

Just getting to Arnhem Land is an adventure in itself. You have two main options:

  1. Via Kakadu National Park and the infamous Cahills Crossing, or

  2. From Roper Bar, coming from the Queensland border, or via the track halfway between Mataranka and Katherine.

Whichever route you choose, be prepared. After rain, Arnhem Land’s roads become a real challenge—bogged vehicles, deep cracks, and relentless corrugations. In the dry season, things ease up a little, but expect corrugations and the occasional river or creek crossing.

As you venture off the main track toward the Arafura Sea, the sense of isolation becomes intense. It’s here the true wilderness takes over, and you’ll feel like you’re the only person left on the planet.

Permits are essential for entering Arnhem Land, and good communication equipment and recovery gear are absolutely non-negotiable.

If you’re chasing mud crabs, keep an eye out for bull sharks in the estuaries. And don’t miss a visit to Port Essington—a place rich in history and a stark reminder of early European exploration attempts in the north.

Within Arnhem Land, you’ll encounter Aboriginal communities such as Oenpelli (Gunbalanya), Maningrida, and Nhulunbuy (Gove)—about 650 km east of Darwin. These communities offer an incredible insight into Indigenous culture. Be sure to check out local art centres, where you’ll find some of the most stunning Aboriginal rock art and hand-crafted works in the country.

If you’re in Nhulunbuy, try to time your visit to see the bauxite mine tour, which, from memory, runs on Fridays.

The landscapes—especially along the coast—are breathtaking. Expect pristine beaches, remote bush camps, and some unforgettable sunsets. But be vigilant: crocodiles are everywhere.

Also, tide knowledge is crucial. Bring a tide chart, and use it wisely when driving on beaches or crossing tidal rivers. The wrong timing could strand you—or worse.

 

THE TOURIST HOT SPOTS, KAKADU & LITCHFIELD NATIONAL PARK

KAKADU NATIONAL PARK

Located just 170 kilometres southeast of Darwin, Kakadu National Park is easily accessible via fully sealed roads. Driving from Darwin along the Arnhem Highway, you’ll first pass through Mary River National Park, home to the famous Adelaide River. Both rivers are teeming with massive saltwater crocodiles, and it’s a popular spot to hop on a boat tour to see the jumping crocodiles up close.

The wetlands in this region are nourished by eight or nine major rivers and have supported Aboriginal communities for thousands of years. Traditional culture is still practiced here today, offering visitors a unique insight into one of the world’s oldest living cultures.

Kakadu is open year-round, but the best time to visit is from May to October (the Dry Season), when weather conditions are ideal—though it’s also the busiest time. The Wet Season, however, has its own magic. Lush greenery returns, and the waterfalls come alive, offering a truly spectacular sight.

In the Dry, Jim Jim Falls can stop flowing, while Twin Falls usually has water all year round. Another popular spot is Gunlom Waterfall Creek, made famous by the movie Crocodile Dundee.

If you plan to go bushwalking, always inform a park ranger of your plans. For bush camping, a permit is required, but designated campgrounds don’t need one.

Kakadu is a birdwatcher’s paradise, especially rich in waterbird species.

Must-visit destinations include:

  • Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls

  • Ubirr Rock (4WD access only in the Wet Season), offering a stunning view over the wetlands

  • Nourlangie Rock and Anbangbang Rock, rich in rock art and history

  • Gubara, with its tranquil pools and scenic bushwalks

  • Nawulandja Lookout

  • Cooinda, home to the famous Yellow Water Billabong

A Yellow Water Cruise is an absolute must-do, offering an unforgettable experience among crocodiles, birdlife, and breathtaking wetland landscapes.

 

Kakadu is open year-round, but the best time to visit is from May to October (the Dry Season), when weather conditions are ideal—though it’s also the busiest time. The Wet Season, however, has its own magic. Lush greenery returns, and the waterfalls come alive, offering a truly spectacular sight.

In the Dry, Jim Jim Falls can stop flowing, while Twin Falls usually has water all year round. Another popular spot is Gunlom Waterfall Creek, made famous by the movie Crocodile Dundee.

If you plan to go bushwalking, always inform a park ranger of your plans. For bush camping, a permit is required, but designated campgrounds don’t need one.

Kakadu is a birdwatcher’s paradise, especially rich in waterbird species.

Must-visit destinations include:

  • Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls

  • Ubirr Rock (4WD access only in the Wet Season), offering a stunning view over the wetlands

  • Nourlangie Rock and Anbangbang Rock, rich in rock art and history

  • Gubara, with its tranquil pools and scenic bushwalks

  • Nawulandja Lookout

  • Cooinda, home to the famous Yellow Water Billabong

A Yellow Water Cruise is an absolute must-do, offering an unforgettable experience among crocodiles, birdlife, and breathtaking wetland landscapes.

LITCHFIELD NATIONAL PARK

Just 90 minutes south of Darwin lies Litchfield National Park, a stunning mix of unspoiled wilderness, monsoon rainforest, cascading waterfalls, and ancient rock formations. Highlights include Wangi Falls, Tolmer Falls, and Florence Falls—some of the most picturesque in the Top End. At Florence Falls and Buley Rockhole, you can enjoy a safe swim in the crystal-clear rock pools.

One of the park’s unique features is the Lost City, with its eerie sandstone towers resembling ancient ruins, and the giant termite mounds, some standing over two meters high.

Litchfield is popular, but still far less crowded than Kakadu. For the more adventurous, head out for some great off-roading toward the Douglas and Daly River area. This region is filled with natural beauty—rock formations, thermal pools, and more safe swimming spots (but never swim in creeks or rivers due to the risk of crocodiles).

For anglers, the Oolloo Crossing is a top spot for barramundi fishing. Camping along the riverbanks here is a peaceful experience, but be mindful: on our last visit 10 years ago, it was impossible to exit on the other side, so always check current conditions. Alternatively, you can use the Daly River Crossing, about 110 km from the Stuart Highway—but only in the dry season. Do not attempt to cross if the river is flowing.

While in the area, a visit to the Merrepen Arts Centre is well worth it. Located in the Nauiyu community, the centre showcases and sells Aboriginal art and crafts created by local artists—authentic, culturally rich, and a way to support the community.

Litchfield is popular, but still far less crowded than Kakadu. For the more adventurous, head out for some great off-roading toward the Douglas and Daly River area. This region is filled with natural beauty—rock formations, thermal pools, and more safe swimming spots (but never swim in creeks or rivers due to the risk of crocodiles).

For anglers, the Oolloo Crossing is a top spot for barramundi fishing. Camping along the riverbanks here is a peaceful experience, but be mindful: on our last visit 10 years ago, it was impossible to exit on the other side, so always check current conditions. Alternatively, you can use the Daly River Crossing, about 110 km from the Stuart Highway—but only in the dry season. Do not attempt to cross if the river is flowing.

While in the area, a visit to the Merrepen Arts Centre is well worth it. Located in the Nauiyu community, the centre showcases and sells Aboriginal art and crafts created by local artists—authentic, culturally rich, and a way to support the community.

http://www.merrepenfestival.com.au/

DARWIN and SURROUNDING AREAS
A great spot for some R & R after 3 or 4 weeks in the bush. Darwin is a modern, cosmopolitan city with a relaxed tropical vibe.

On Christmas Eve 1974, Cyclone Tracy devastated Darwin, causing over $840 million in damage—equivalent to around $7.5 billion in today’s terms. Over 70% of the city was destroyed, 71 people lost their lives, and more than 60% of the population—about 27,000 out of 45,000 residents—were left homeless. Out of approximately 10,000 buildings, only 400 remained intact. In the weeks that followed, over 30,000 people were evacuated to cities around Australia.

Now completely rebuilt, Darwin is a resilient and thriving city. A visit to the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory is a must—it offers an in-depth and moving exhibit on Cyclone Tracy and its impact on the city.

Darwin, the capital of the Northern Territory, is a tempting place to just relax after time in the bush—lounging around the campsite, enjoying the great bars and restaurants in town. But don’t miss out on some standout experiences.

A must-do is a trip to the Tiwi Islands, located 80 kilometres north of Darwin (about 2.5 hours by ferry). Yes, it’s a bit touristy, but it’s a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the rich Indigenous culture and history of the Tiwi people. You’ll also find beautiful, traditional artworks available for purchase at local prices.

Other highlights in and around Darwin include:

  • Mindil Beach Sunset Markets (especially on Thursdays)

  • Excellent restaurants around the marina and harbour

  • A visit to Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve

  • A cold drink at the iconic Humpty Doo Pub

  • A stop at Howard Springs Nature Park

 

KATHERINE-MATARANKA REGION

Like Kakadu and Litchfield, Katherine is a well-known tourist hot spot—and for good reason. Located just 300 km south of Darwin along the fully sealed Stuart Highway, Katherine is easily accessible and well worth a visit. It’s the fourth-largest town in the Northern Territory and serves as a natural transition point where the arid Red Centre begins to give way to the lush tropics of the Top End.

From Katherine, the possibilities for exploration are endless. But the town’s major highlight is without a doubt Katherine Gorge, located in Nitmiluk National Park. This stunning gorge system, carved by the Katherine River, offers breathtaking scenery and a range of outdoor activities including boat cruises, canoeing, hiking, and even helicopter flights.

In contrast to the Darwin region, Katherine experiences cooler winter temperatures. Nights can drop as low as 7°C, but the days remain comfortably warm around 30°C, with low humidity—ideal conditions for exploring the outdoors.

Based on your travel plans the following locations are worth a stop travelling to or from Katherine-Mataranka Region

GOING WEST
Just 200 km west of Katherine, the Victoria River Crossing rewards travellers with a stunning escarpment, a picture-perfect roadhouse, and an abundance of wildlife.

Don’t rush past Gregory National Park—often forgotten or bypassed, this hidden gem sprawls over 13,000 square kilometres of dramatic gorges and rugged landscapes. It’s located just outside Timber Creek, making it an ideal stopover as you head to or from the Western Australian border.

Must-Do Stop:
Just 20 km northwest of Timber Creek, you’ll find the Big Gregory’s Boab Tree—a remarkable site with deep cultural significance for the local Ngaringman Aboriginal people. It’s a perfect stop to stretch your legs, soak up some local history, and take in a truly iconic outback landmark.

If you’re tired of cruising the main highway, consider taking the Buntine Highway—a great alternative route into or out of Western Australia. This lesser-traveled road connects Dunmarra with Halls Creek, passing through Top Springs, and offers a more remote and adventurous journey across the region.

GOING EAST:
Heading east, you’ll pass through Daly Waters, home to the famous Daly Waters Pub, a quirky, must-see outback watering hole. From there, continue on towards Borroloola, a remote coastal town in the Northern Territory, located approximately 670 km east of Katherine.

Along the way, be sure to stop at the iconic Heartbreak Hotel in Cape Crawford—a true outback institution. Just north of Cape Crawford, take a detour to Poppy’s Pool, a hidden gem and perfect for a refreshing dip before continuing on to Borroloola.

If you’re fortunate enough to find a local in Borroloola with a boat, you can explore Barranyi National Park, the traditional homeland of the Yanyuwa Aboriginal people. About 50 km south of Borroloola, the Bukulara Range (Carabirini Conservation Reserve) and the Lost City await, with its stunning 25-meter sandstone spires. Approximately 200 kilometers northwest, on the Roper River Road, lies Limmen National Park, a favorite for anglers and 4WD enthusiasts. To access the Western Lost City, a 4WD is required.

Heading South: A must-visit stop is the Daly Waters Pub, located about 650 km south of Darwin and 300 km south of Katherine. Established 84 years ago, this iconic outback pub sits just before the intersection of the Savannah Way and Stuart Highway. Known for its cheeky décor of bras and undies, it has become a popular tourist destination but retains its authentic pub charm. It’s a place that you simply must visit when traveling through the outback.

The next major stop on the highway is the Devils Marbles, located about 100km south of Tennant Creek or 400km north of Alice Springs. This reserve is much larger than the two iconic round rocks and well worth exploring, or even staying overnight. From here, 4WD enthusiasts can take a detour via Davenport and Murchison Range National Park. This area, part of the Eastern Tanami Desert, offers a network of tracks branching off the highway heading south towards Alice Springs.

TANAMI DESERT

In the early ’80s, the Tanami Track was considered a remote, 4WD-only route. Today, it’s suitable for 2WD vehicles, thanks to improvements driven by the mining industry, though it still retains its sense of remoteness. Fuel stations along the track, such as those in Yuendumu, Billiluna, Tilmouth Well, and Balgo, make it more accessible, though once you venture off the track into the surrounding areas, good preparation is crucial. Covering around 200,000 square kilometers, the Tanami Desert is Australia’s third-largest desert. The Tanami Track itself runs northwest, connecting Alice Springs (just north of the town) to Halls Creek in the Kimberley, spanning around 1,200 kilometers. It’s a fantastic shortcut for those traveling between the south and the Kimberley in Western Australia.

The drive through the outback is far more rewarding than the monotonous route along the Stuart Highway. Summers here are scorching, with temperatures regularly surpassing 45°C, though the low humidity makes it a bit more bearable. In winter, daytime temperatures hover around 30°C, but the nights can get quite chilly, dropping to around 10°C. If you’re planning to venture off the Tanami Track, make sure you’ve got the necessary permits in place.

The once-famous Rabbit Flat roadhouse, which closed in 2011, remains closed to this day. Back in the early ’80s, it was the world’s most remote roadhouse, located about 860 kilometers northwest of Alice Springs and 545 kilometers southwest of Halls Creek in Western Australia. I vividly remember meeting the owner, Jackie Farrant (originally from Paris), in the early ’80s, when she proudly showed us her vegetable garden in the middle of this arid landscape, where she grew asparagus. Back then, fresh fruit and mail were delivered only twice a month, and communication was limited to HF radio for school and medical consultations. The road was often closed due to flooding, adding to the isolation.

Fast forward to today, and the roadhouse is gone, replaced by fuel stations catering to luxury 4WDs and mining vehicles. However, for those who truly appreciate the capabilities of a 4WD, there’s still plenty to explore off the main track in the Tanami Desert. The region is flat, and once you pass Tilmouth Well, the bitumen ends, and the road turns to gravel.

Alice Springs Area
Alice Springs, often dubbed the unofficial capital of the outback, is the third-largest town in the Northern Territory with a population of around 24,000 people. Known as “the Alice” by locals, the town’s biggest event is the Henley on Todd Regatta, the world’s only dry riverbed boating regatta, usually held in August. The atmosphere at this unique event is unforgettable, adding a touch of madness to the desert heat.

Alice Springs is a great place to relax and recover after weeks in the bush or a tough Simpson Desert crossing.

 

 

The surrounding area is truly stunning, with the MacDonnell Ranges providing a breathtaking backdrop. Key attractions include Alice Springs Desert Park, the Telegraph Station—connecting Australia to the world since 1871—the School of the Air, and the Royal Flying Doctor Service. A must-do is the Namatjira Drive, a 260-kilometre round trip that takes you through the Western MacDonnell Ranges. While popular with tourists, the drive offers postcard-perfect scenery, refreshing waterholes, and, notably, no crocodiles. Key waterholes include Ellery Creek Big Hole, Ormiston Gorge, Redbank Gorge, and Glen Helen Gorge, all offering a chance to experience the beauty of the outback.

 

 

Continuing west from here, you can connect to Uluru or Kings Canyon, or alternatively head towards Kintore and follow the Canning Stock Route all the way to the Indian Ocean. Personally, I prefer the Eastern MacDonnell Ranges, where you’ll encounter fewer tourists and experience the true outback in its raw form. Some great stops along the way include Jessie Gap, Trephina Gorge, and Ross River Homestead. As you venture further east, the area becomes even more remote, with highlights such as N Dhala Gorge, Arltunga Historical Reserve, and Ruby Gap Nature Park. These places are perfect for camping under the stars, enjoying a campfire, and embracing the wilderness. Many tracks from here also lead into the Northern Simpson Desert and Madigan Line, though these require permits and reliable communication for safety.

AYERS ROCK-KINGS CANYON-OLGAS AREA

For those heading to Uluru (Ayers Rock), Kings Canyon, and the Olgas area, the Larapinta Drive to Hermannsburg is an interesting route, passing through the home of the renowned Aboriginal watercolour artist Albert Namatjira. A must-see on the way is Palm Valley, a hidden tropical oasis in the middle of the red centre, located in Finke Gorge National Park. For those seeking a 4WD adventure, the Finke River Gorge track between Hermannsburg and Kings Canyon is highly recommended, offering a thrilling off-road experience.

This stunning route along and through the Finke River bed offers incredible photo opportunities, bush camping, and dramatic red cliffs towering above you.

Good maps—or reliable mud maps—are essential, as the track was unmarked during our last visit, with only a few faded signs saying “KINGS CANYON THIS WAY.”

The track is rough and often hard to follow. Expect rocky stretches, deep soft sand, and multiple river crossings. If the Finke River is flowing, which usually happens only once a year, the route becomes impassable.

Spend the night in the gorge and soak in the silence beneath ancient red cliffs, camping in what may be the oldest riverbed in the world. It’s remote, raw, and unforgettable.

Next Stop: Kings Canyon

Our first visit to this region was back in 1986. About 100 km before reaching Kings Canyon, we met the owners of Wallara Range Station — a chance encounter that turned into an unforgettable memory. At the time, Jim Cotterill was running the station and would host nightly slide projection shows in the bar, sharing stories and photos to help visitors understand the beauty and significance of Kings Canyon.

Back then, the road from Wallara Range to the canyon was strictly 4WD — nothing like the sealed highway and resort that greet visitors today.

Jim’s parents, Jack and Elsie Cotterill, had arrived in this remote part of the Northern Territory in the 1960s. There were no roads then — just vast, untouched country. Leasing the land from the local Aboriginal people, they decided to build simple tourist accommodation and, with nothing more than an old Dodge Weapons Carrier, they began hand-cutting a road from Wallara Range Station to Kings Canyon, eventually reaching the corner of the Luritja and Ernest Giles highways.

They pioneered tourism in the area, showing visitors the raw beauty of Kings Canyon long before it appeared in brochures or travel guides.

But the story took a sad turn. In 1990, Jim was unable to renew his lease. After building a successful business from scratch, he was forced to hand it over to the local Aboriginal community. Rather than walk away and leave everything behind, Jim made a drastic and emotional decision: he hired a bulldozer, knocked down all the buildings — including his house — and buried the lot in a massive hole.

It was a defiant end to a pioneering chapter of Central Australian tourism.

 

 

For those driving the bitumen from Alice south you may stop at Stuart Well Roadhouse as this is now Jim’s Place. Interesting and very interesting reading about an immigrant who had a go and lost it all 30 odd years later and started up again from scratch.

These days, Kings Canyon has become a popular and busy tourist destination, known for its towering 120-meter-high sandstone walls, dramatic red rock cliffs, and the lush palm-filled valley below. It’s true walking country now, with numerous well-marked trails—but the 6 km Rim Walk is an absolute must. This iconic route takes in the weathered domes of the Lost City and the tranquil Garden of Eden. Many visitors even find it more spectacular than Uluru (Ayers Rock).

From here, there are plenty of soft-road 4WD tracks to explore. Kings Canyon is a great base to either tackle the Mereenie Loop back to Alice Springs or venture further west into the desert, heading towards Kintore or Docker River.

 

 

Alternative Route to Uluru (Ayers Rock)

If you prefer the easier route, return to the Ernest Giles Road and follow the bitumen highway toward Ayers Rock (Uluru). Be aware that the old rough 4WD track to Curtin Springs is reportedly no longer open to the public.

Important Safety Note: In recent years, park rangers have closed walking tracks during summer when temperatures exceed 36°C, so always check local conditions before venturing out. When walking, carry sufficient water, as dehydration is a serious risk in this environment.

Next Must-Do Stop: Uluru

Uluru is a 350-metre-high sandstone monolith that dramatically changes colour with the light—from ochre in the morning, to burnt orange, and finally deep red at sunset. The best times to experience its magic are sunrise and sunset.

Uluru rises starkly from the surrounding flat desert landscape, making it a striking and iconic sight.

  • Base Walk: A full circuit around the rock is 10 kilometres—a highly recommended way to appreciate its features up close.

  • Climbing Uluru: Note that climbing the rock is now permanently prohibited, both out of respect for Anangu traditional owners and due to safety concerns. In the past, many people were injured or died attempting the climb.

Kata Tjuta & the Great Central Road

Just over 50 kilometres west of Uluru lies Kata Tjuta, also known as The Olgas. This impressive formation consists of 36 steep-sided monoliths. Like Uluru, Kata Tjuta is at its most breathtaking during sunrise and sunset, when the rocks change colour dramatically. The highest dome reaches 1,100 metres.

In recent years, many of the walking tracks have been closed to allow for traditional Aboriginal ceremonies, highlighting the cultural importance of the area.

All roads in this region are well maintained, thanks to the high volume of tourists. If you’re heading towards Western Australia via the Great Central Road, you’ll find several interesting options beyond Docker River:

  • You can connect with the Canning Stock Route via the Gunbarrel Highway and Old Gunbarrel Highway.

  • There are numerous tracks leading into the Len Beadell network, offering true remote travel experiences.

  • You can also head southwest towards Coober Pedy, or continue west through Warburton, then on to Laverton and eventually Perth.

Alternatively, if you’re not ready for the remote journey west, you can backtrack on the asphalt towards Alice Springs or down to Coober Pedy.
Important: Many of these routes require permits, especially if crossing Aboriginal land.

Finke River Track & Surrounding Areas

When leaving Alice Springs heading towards South Australia or Queensland, you’re spoiled for choice. The most straightforward option is the Stuart Highway south to Coober Pedy. However, if you’re after more adventure and history, consider the routes along:

  • The Old Finke River Race Track

  • The Old Ghan Railway Line

A first worthwhile stop is the Rainbow Valley Conservation Reserve, offering scenic views, rich Aboriginal history, and a peaceful camp spot.

This is an incredible spot to camp, offering stunning views of the sunset or sunrise with sandstone bluffs and towering cliffs. You can access the area via the Stuart Highway or the Old Ghan Railway track. From Rainbow Valley, follow the bush tracks back to the Old Ghan Railway, then head right toward Mary Vale and Chambers Pillar. The Pillar is a massive 40-meter-high column that stands out in the desert landscape. The track from Maryvale to the Pillar can be soft and sandy, so be prepared for a bumpy ride.

Camping here is fantastic, with the vast, open spaces and the rugged terrain providing a true desert experience. Heading back to Maryvale Station and following the Old Ghan Railway Line, you’ll also be driving along the famous Finke Desert Race track. This iconic 2-day event, held in June, challenges cars, bikes, buggies, and quads, and many international competitors find it tougher than the Dakar Rally.

Finke, a small Aboriginal community with around 250 residents, is located roughly 180 kilometers south of Alice Springs. From here, it’s just a short drive to the Lambert Centre, the gravitational center of Australia—though its exact location is still debated.

In 1988, the Royal Geographical Society of Australia designated this location as the Gravitational Centre of Australia. Here, you’ll find a flagpole that’s a miniature replica of the one at Parliament House in Canberra, along with a visitor book and even toilets. From this point, you can either retrace your steps back to Finke and head towards Mount Dare Homestead, Oodnadatta, William Creek, or Coober Pedy in South Australia, or return to Alice Springs via Old Andado Station and Santa Teresa. Alternatively, you can make your way back to the asphalt and the Stuart Highway.

The track leading to Old Andado Station is remote, bumpy, and can become slippery and boggy when wet. However, if you enjoy desert landscapes, it offers a scenic and rugged experience. This area is now part of the Binns Track, a popular tourist route. Keep in mind that this is a remote region, so it’s important to be well-prepared, with reliable communication and self-sufficiency.

 

 

Old Andado Homestead

Molly Clark’s life story is a remarkable testament to resilience and strength, shaped by the hardships she faced. Born in 1920, she worked as a governess on the Birdsville Track before marrying Malcolm Clark in 1946. In 1955, Mac and Molly took over Old Andado Station, and in 1972, they restored the old homestead to begin welcoming tourists. Tragically, Mac passed away in 1978, just weeks after their son Kevin survived a severe car accident. A year later, their eldest son Graham was killed in a freight train accident.

Despite these devastating losses, Molly pressed on. In 1984, a tuberculosis outbreak forced her to cull all the cattle and sell much of the property, but she held onto a 45-square-kilometer block and moved back to the old homestead, continuing her tourist business. As she often said, “Life goes on.”

Molly’s life in the Outback was one of grit and determination, where people work through immense hardships, and even pregnant women continue working until their babies are born, returning to the land just days later. In 2005, as her health declined and her eyesight worsened, Molly moved to Alice Springs, where she lived until her passing in 2012.

Meeting Molly in the late ’80s was a rare privilege, offering a glimpse into the life of a woman who had weathered so much and yet remained steadfast in her commitment to the land and her legacy. Her story is a powerful reminder of the resilience required to thrive in the harsh and unforgiving Outback.

If you return to Alice you will pass the small township of Santa Teresa

Santa Teresa, a small township 85 kilometers from Alice Springs, was established as a Catholic Mission in the 1950s to support the goldmining town of Arltunga. Today, it has a population of around 500 people, living in and around the village. If you’re completing the loop from Alice Springs via Finke, it’s a good place to refuel before continuing your journey.

The area is rich in tracks leading into the Northern Simpson Desert, offering an opportunity to explore remote territory. However, be mindful that it’s a very isolated area, and venturing into these tracks requires proper preparation. Always ensure you have sufficient supplies and equipment before heading into the desert, as the remote nature of the terrain can be challenging.

PART 2 VIDEO CLIPS

 

For our around the world doubledutchworldsafari video click Part 1. Australia.