South Australia

PART 1, BLOGS & PHOTOS

PART 2 VIDEO CLIPS

 

PART 1 BLOGS & PHOTOS 

South Australia – More Than You Think

South Australia is much more than just Coober Pedy, the Oodnadatta Track, the Barossa Valley, the Flinders Ranges, or the vast Nullarbor Plain. It’s a remarkable state to venture off the beaten track, offering rewarding experiences for those willing to explore beyond the usual routes.

Despite being one of Australia’s most sparsely populated states, with over 60% classified as desert, South Australia is a paradise for off-road enthusiasts. From dramatic desert landscapes to stunning coastal regions, it boasts an incredible variety of terrain and adventure.

Discover beautiful National Parks and unspoiled beaches, or explore beachside gems like Robe. For serious 4WD adventures, the Southern Simpson Desert, Lake Eyre, and Yellabinna Regional Reserve provide unforgettable challenges. There are also fantastic soft off-roading opportunities in the Gammon Ranges, Flinders Ranges, and the Gawler Ranges National Park.

Prefer history and a sense of Australia’s pioneering past? Follow legendary outback routes like the Oodnadatta Track, the Birdsville Track, or head to Innamincka — a gateway that links with Queensland and New South Wales.

OUTBACK TRAVEL Word of warning for our international overlanders. The outback, Australian deserts and to some degree our beaches are very different to the terrain you are used to in Europe, Africa or South America. If you are travelling remote ensure one person in the vehicle has first aid knowledge, make sure you have proper communication equipment. Min Satellite phone, UHF radio, and if possible HF radio (available for rental) let people know where you are going and call in to advise them you have arrived. Travel well within your capabilities and when crossing rivers in the North be aware of Crocodiles, same applies to those who like fishing, Freshwater Crocodiles are not as dangerous however they bite and do a lot of damage. The beaches of Australia have some very soft sand in particular when you have to drive above the high water mark. driving the beaches on a outgoing tide is what I recommend when turning on a beach always turn towards the water to avoid driving uphill and turning in soft sand. Tyre pressure very important in our land cruiser i have been down to 10 psi. My suggestion is start at 25 psi and go down in 5 psi lots as required and keep the speed down. Be aware of deep rutted tracks, bull dust, mud, soft sand on beaches and inland tracks, deep water crossings all combined in one day of driving can be a challenge and can break parts in your vehicle not to mention being stranded mid stream with a flooded engine. Be warned do not become one of those people who know it all Australia’s outback is unforgiving. 

From Melbourne to Kangaroo Island – A 4WD Coastal Adventure

Departing from Melbourne along the scenic Great Ocean Road, your first ideal stop is the charming seaside town of Robe, known for its excellent beach driving opportunities and laid-back coastal vibe. Continue to Coorong National Park, a unique and expansive coastal wilderness where around 90 kilometers of beach are open to 4WD vehicles — perfect for those who enjoy off-road exploration.

From Coorong, head towards Victor Harbor and make your way to Cape Jervis, where the ferry departs for Kangaroo Island — Australia’s third-largest island after Tasmania and Melville Island. The crossing takes approximately 45 minutes and brings you to Penneshaw.

Kangaroo Island is a must-visit destination for nature lovers. Don’t miss:

  • Spotting koalas and penguins in their natural habitat.

  • Strolling the pristine beaches.

  • Visiting Seal Bay Conservation Park, where you can walk among sea lions.

  • Exploring Flinders Chase National Park, home to dramatic coastline, the wind-sculpted Remarkable Rocks, and the naturally carved Admirals Arch.

 

 

Back on the mainland follow the coast line north towards Adelaide the capital city of South Australia, also called the City of Churches. We are not really city people but if you enjoy dining, events and entertainment it may be something you enjoy. If you do, my suggestion is to stay near the suburb of Glenelg. For wine lovers the area around the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale are a must to visit.

If you’re craving more beaches, your next destination could be the Yorke Peninsula and stunning Innes National Park. Or, you might decide to head west towards the Eyre Peninsula to explore the beautiful coastal regions around Coffin Bay and Lincoln National Park. From there, continue further north to Fowlers Bay, known for its long, sweeping beaches.

Then it’s decision time again:
Will you take the adventurous off-road route along Googs Track* or backtrack via the main highway to visit the Gawler Ranges?

*You can find photos and a blog about Googs Track on the Western Australia page of our Facebook.

If you follow Googs Track, you’ll eventually end up in Coober Pedy or start following the Anne Beadell Highway. Despite the name, this “highway” is actually a narrow, sandy track—barely wide enough for one vehicle. After days spent in the remote outback, arriving in Coober Pedy feels like reaching a major city. Here, you’ll find everything you need to restock and refresh in this fascinating mining town.

Coober Pedy is a must-visit—one of Australia’s most unusual and iconic outback stops. Many of the locals live underground, not just to escape the intense heat, but also because it’s easy to carve homes into the soft, opal-rich ground. Summer temperatures in inland and central Australia can soar up to 50°C, and while it’s a dry heat, it’s still extreme.

The main reason people come here is opals. Coober Pedy is the opal capital of the world, and that glittering promise continues to draw fortune seekers and adventurers from all over.

If you are in town you may even camp underground, stay in underground hotels, visit an underground church etc. Remember it is a tourist town. You can visit working opal mines, mine for opals yourself, buy opals and visit historic mines which explain how opal mining was done in the old days. Visit the place where the movie Mad Max was made (Moon Plains), the Breakaways (at sunset it is magic) and the world-famous Dog fence. From here I suggest you travel north on well maintained roads (gravel) to William Creek (170KM) and turn left to Oodnadatta if you like to visit the Simpson Desert, or right the easy way to Marree approx. 200KM away. The town of William Creek has grown from our first visit in 1985 from a population of 2 to a population 10, I am told.

From this point, you can follow remote tracks toward Lake Eyre and into the Tirari Desert. Just remember: the deeper you go, the more essential proper communication equipment becomes.

On the way to Halligan Point, keep an eye out for the plaque dedicated to a young Austrian woman who tragically lost her life while attempting to walk back to William Creek after her 4WD became bogged. It’s a sobering reminder of how harsh and unforgiving this country can be.

Just before reaching William Creek, you’ll pass Anna Creek Station — the world’s largest cattle station, larger than some countries.

From William Creek, I suggest heading west toward Oodnadatta. The Oodnadatta Track is a well-maintained gravel road — a great option if you’re traveling from Alice Springs or Uluru (Ayers Rock) down toward the Flinders Ranges.

Roughly 80 km southwest of Oodnadatta lies the stunning Painted Desert. It’s well worth a visit for its dramatic, colourful landscapes.

From there, make your way toward Mt Dare Homestead. Important: you’ll need a Desert Parks Pass before entering the Mount Dare area or crossing into the Simpson Desert.

From this point on, you’re heading into increasingly remote country. Good communication gear is essential — at the very least a UHF radio (for convoy or local vehicle communication), but preferably HF radio or, better still, a satellite phone. Don’t rely on a standard CB — its range is too limited for the distances and isolation out here.

 

 

The Homestead can be reached from either Alice Springs or Ayers Rock, via Chambers Pillar and the Finke Track, about 10 km after crossing the Northern Territory border. It’s the ideal starting point for a Simpson Desert crossing. (Note: traveling West to East is considerably easier than East to West, due to the steeper faces of the sand dunes.)

Click here for more information and current road conditions.

From Mount Dare, the track to Birdsville begins, offering two route options:

  • Around 800 km via the Rig Road

  • 440 km via the more direct French Line

We’ve driven the French Line on numerous occasions, in both directions. The Simpson Desert is made up of approximately 1,100 sand dunes running north to south, with some dunes stretching as long as 250 meters.

Preparation is absolutely essential. You must be self-sufficient and have proper communication equipment — this is serious outback country. The Simpson stretches over 400 km north to the Plenty Highway and east to Birdsville, with no towns or services within the desert itself. There’s plenty of opportunity for exploring, but make no mistake — this is remote and rugged terrain.

Once you roll into Birdsville, it truly feels like you’re hitting the big smoke again after a week (or longer) in the desert. Depending on your route and plans, Birdsville offers all the facilities you’ll need to regroup and refuel. It’s also home to the iconic Birdsville Hotel and the legendary Birdsville Races, held in early September.

 

 

You’re now back on well-maintained roads, with options to head north to Boulia, east towards Brisbane, or south to Marree (500 km) via the Birdsville Track. Since this blog focuses on South Australia, we’ll turn right and follow the Birdsville Track until the turn-off to the Walkers Crossing Track, leading to a fantastic overnight campsite at Coongie Lakes.

From Coongie Lakes, it’s another 100 km to Innamincka.

Alternatively, you can stay on the main Birdsville Track all the way to Marree. Along the way, there are several opportunities to turn off and explore the desert regions again. One worthwhile stop is Muloorina Homestead, just north of Marree, where you can enjoy a swim and get a glimpse of life on a remote cattle station.

If you decide to visit Innamincka, it’s worth also considering a trip to Marree and Muloorina Homestead. From the homestead, you can access Lake Eyre via Level Post Bay — a truly iconic outback experience.

 

 

It was here, on the dry salt lake near Marree, that Sir Donald Campbell set a land speed record of 648 km/h in 1964, driving a gas turbine-powered car. The area is steeped in history.

Further south, you’ll find the turn-off to the Gammon Ranges and, beyond that, the Flinders Ranges. These areas can also be reached from Innamincka via 4WD tracks. The Gammons and Flinders are connected by good gravel roads, offering access to both parks.

Both ranges feature rugged mountain scenery, deep gorges, scenic waterholes, and countless tracks to explore. Personally, we prefer the Gammon Ranges over the Flinders due to the smaller crowds, more sheltered gorges, and hidden plunge pools that feel like true outback treasures.

A must-visit in the area is Arkaroola, founded by Reg and Griselda Sprigg in 1967. It’s a remarkable place with a fascinating history and stunning, remote landscapes.

 

In the mid-1980s, we were fortunate to meet Dr. Reg Sprigg and his wife, spending a few days listening to his fascinating stories. Dr. Sprigg, a renowned Australian geologist and conservationist, was a student of Antarctic explorer Sir Douglas Mawson. He was ahead of his time, studying ecotourism long before it became a concept in Australia. The Flinders Ranges, where we met him, is home to the endangered Yellow-footed Rock Wallaby and a haven for 4WD enthusiasts. The area’s spectacular scenery, especially the iconic Wilpena Pound, a massive natural amphitheater, is complemented by a network of scenic and gentle 4WD tracks that make it a must-visit for adventurers.

 

If you like some luxury after weeks of bush camping you may consider Rawnsley Park Station. From here it is just 400 kilometres on sealed roads back to Adelaide. To obtain a desert pass online click.  https://www.environment.sa.gov.au/parks/book-and-pay/parks-passes/desert-parks-pass but from memory you can also purchase this at the Pink Road house in Oodnadatta, Birdsville Hotel and Marree. But you better check.

Compilation photos South Australia below,

PART 2 VIDEO CLIPS